{"id":10981,"date":"2024-05-21T10:38:34","date_gmt":"2024-05-21T08:38:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=10981"},"modified":"2024-05-23T16:19:30","modified_gmt":"2024-05-23T14:19:30","slug":"kompenzacni-cviceni-pro-lezce","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/kompenzacni-cviceni-pro-lezce\/","title":{"rendered":"Kompenza\u010dn\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed pro lezce"},"content":{"rendered":"

Lezen\u00ed je sport s velkou z\u00e1t\u011b\u017e\u00ed jak na \u0161lachy, svaly tak na kostru. Jako lezci se \u010dasto soust\u0159ed\u00edme hlavn\u011b cvi\u010den\u00ed s\u00edly, odolnost prst\u016f a z\u00e1p\u011bst\u00ed a do jist\u00e9 m\u00edry tak\u00e9 mobility \u010di ohebnosti. M\u00e1lo z n\u00e1s si ale najde \u010das na to se v\u011bnovat n\u011b\u010demu, jako je kompenza\u010dn\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed pro lezce. P\u0159itom jde o d\u016fle\u017eitou sou\u010d\u00e1st balancovan\u00e9ho tr\u00e9ninku, nemluv\u011b o roli, kterou kompenzace hraje v p\u0159edch\u00e1zen\u00ed zran\u011bn\u00ed. Op\u011bt nutn\u00e9 ale \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee nejsem osobn\u00ed tren\u00e9r nebo doktor \u010dehokoliv. Jen se o t\u00e9ma zaj\u00edm\u00e1m. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"V\u00fdsutka,
V\u00fdsutka, Radot\u00edn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

O co jde?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Kdy\u017e se \u0159ekne „kompenza\u010dn\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed pro lezce“, nen\u00ed lehk\u00e9 si n\u011bco na prvn\u00ed dobrou p\u0159edstavit. Mnoho z n\u00e1s si vybav\u00ed protahov\u00e1n\u00ed, mas\u00edrov\u00e1n\u00ed se v\u00e1lcem nebo posilov\u00e1n\u00ed slab\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed t\u011bla. Pravdou je, \u017ee v\u0161echny tyto v\u011bci do kompenza\u010dn\u00edho cvi\u010den\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed. Celkem ale jde cvi\u010den\u00ed: uvol\u0148ovac\u00ed, protahovac\u00ed a posilovac\u00ed. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 hraje v procesu svoji roli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uvol\u0148ovac\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

C\u00edlem uvol\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed je…uvolnit se. Konkr\u00e9tn\u011b uvolnit zatuhl\u00e9 klouby a svaly. Chceme dostat kon\u010detiny na sam\u00fd kraj jejich mobility, a to bez pou\u017eit\u00ed svalov\u00e9ho nap\u011bt\u00ed. Tzn. dostat „haxnu“ a\u017e kam to p\u016fjde, bez toho abychom na ni tla\u010dili. Jde do jist\u00e9 m\u00edry o lehk\u00e9 cvi\u010den\u00ed mobility s c\u00edlem zamezit zatuhnut\u00ed a kr\u00e1cen\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Protahovac\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Protahovac\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed zamezuje zkracov\u00e1n\u00ed sval\u016f a \u0161lach. Jde o v\u0161em zn\u00e1m\u00fd stretching a jeho mnoho podob. Logika zde je takov\u00e1, \u017ee je nutn\u00e9 zamezit zkracov\u00e1n\u00ed sval\u016f a \u0161lach k tomu n\u00e1chyln\u00fdch. V p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b lezc\u016f jde zejm\u00e9na o svaly ruky a nohou. Stretching je prov\u00e1d\u011bn po proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed a jen m\u00edrn\u011b. Nejde zde o c\u00edlen\u00e9 cvi\u010den\u00ed na zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00ed flexibility, tak\u017ee nechceme j\u00edt p\u0159es bolest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Posilovac\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Toto pak c\u00edl\u00ed na nedostatky, kter\u00e9 vznikaj\u00ed p\u0159i nebalancovan\u00e9m zat\u00ed\u017een\u00ed sval\u016f. Jako lezci pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me opravdu hodn\u011b z\u00e1da, ruce a nohy. Na ty se soust\u0159ed\u00edme \u010dasto c\u00edlen\u00fdm cvi\u010den\u00edm – shyby, hangboarding – a na zbytek t\u011bla zapomeneme (nap\u0159\u00edklad hrudn\u00edk). Je proto d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9, aby zapomenut\u00e9 svalov\u00e9 skupiny dohnaly ty lezeck\u00e9. Nen\u00ed nutn\u00e9 chodit do posilovny a makat s \u010dinkami a trhat rekordy v po\u010dtu opakov\u00e1n\u00ed. Lehk\u00e9 cvi\u010den\u00ed s vlastn\u00ed vahou kolikr\u00e1t posta\u010d\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Protahov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Protahov\u00e1n\u00ed, aka stretching, je nejsnaz\u0161\u00ed na proveden\u00ed. Jak jsme psali v\u00fd\u0161e, nejde mermomoc\u00ed o c\u00edlen\u00e9 protahov\u00e1n\u00ed s c\u00edlem b\u00fdt ohebn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed (by\u0165 je to p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd dodatek). C\u00edlem je zamezit zkracov\u00e1n\u00ed a uvolnit zatuhlosti ve svalech. Proto nen\u00ed d\u016fvod nijak to hrotit. Vhodn\u00fd moment pro protahov\u00e1n\u00ed je po lezen\u00ed, kdy\u017e je t\u011blo zah\u0159\u00e1t\u00e9 a svaly maj\u00ed nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed potenci\u00e1l pro zm\u011bnu (dob\u0159e se roztahuj\u00ed). Stejn\u011b tak ale m\u016f\u017eete na protahov\u00e1n\u00ed sko\u010dit ve\u010der po umyt\u00ed a aktivn\u00edm dnu (ve\u010der jsou svaly v\u00edce zah\u0159\u00e1t\u00e9, ne\u017e r\u00e1no a l\u00e9pe se s nimi pracuje).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u016f\u017eete bu\u010fto vyu\u017e\u00edt vlastn\u00edch znalost\u00ed z t\u011blocviku ze \u0161koly a ud\u011blat si z\u00e1kladn\u00ed prota\u017een\u00ed, nebo j\u00edt podle appky <\/a>\u010di videa. Crimped <\/a>m\u00e1 ve sv\u00e9m rostru cvi\u010den\u00ed mimo jin\u00e9 protahov\u00e1n\u00ed, co\u017e doporu\u010dujeme. Stejn\u011b tak dob\u0159e ale pom\u016f\u017ee zadat „stretching“ do YouTube a vybrat si d\u00e9lku videa (nap\u0159. Lattice<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uvol\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed (aka mobilita)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Zde jde o cvi\u010den\u00ed mobility. Tedy jak dostat kloub na hranici sv\u00e9ho pohybu bez pou\u017eit\u00ed s\u00edly. Pro lep\u0161\u00ed p\u0159edstavu, jsou to ony zn\u00e1m\u00e9 kruhy rukama na ramena, lokty a z\u00e1p\u011bst\u00ed nebo nohama na ky\u010dle a kolena, kter\u00e9 tak dob\u0159e v\u0161ichni zn\u00e1me z t\u011bl\u00e1ku a proh\u0159\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed na lezen\u00ed. Jde n\u00e1m o to, aby se kloub a jeho podp\u016frn\u00e1 soustava uvolnila a nehromadilo se v nich nap\u011bt\u00ed a stress. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I zde jsou varianty, jak si klouby uvolnit. Nejleh\u010d\u00ed je j\u00edt stejnou cestou jako u prota\u017een\u00ed, tzn. po lezen\u00ed projet kr\u00e1tkou rutinu na mobilitu. Zam\u011b\u0159en\u00ed zde by m\u011bla b\u00fdt nejen p\u00e1te\u0159, ramena, lokty a z\u00e1p\u011bst\u00ed, ale tak\u00e9 ky\u010dle, kolena a kotn\u00edky (na kter\u00e9 se \u010dasto zapom\u00edn\u00e1). C\u00edlem je tla\u010dit kon\u010detinu (bez s\u00edly) do maxim mo\u017en\u00e9ho pohybu. Zd\u016fraz\u0148uji, bez s\u00edly a bez bolesti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stejn\u011b jako u p\u0159ede\u0161l\u00e9ho, i zde existuje hafo YouTube n\u00e1vod\u016f na to, jak postupovat. Osobn\u011b doporu\u010duji video od Toma Merricka<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Posilov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Hned z kraje, ne, svaly kter\u00e9 „nepou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me“ u lezen\u00ed n\u00e1m nech\u0159adnou. Jde ale k tvorb\u011b nerovnost\u00ed ve svalov\u00fdch skupin\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 m\u016f\u017eou ovliv\u0148ovat funk\u010dnost a dr\u017een\u00ed t\u011bla. Toto oslaben\u00ed se t\u00fdk\u00e1 v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b lezc\u016f a modern\u00edch kancel\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdch \u017eivo\u010dich\u016f zejm\u00e9na hrudn\u00edku, ramen a spodn\u00edch zad. Ka\u017ed\u00fd je ale jin\u00fd a v\u0161ichni v\u00edme, kde na\u0161e slabiny le\u017e\u00ed. Nemus\u00ed j\u00edt nutn\u011b o konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed svalov\u00e9 skupiny, ale tak\u00e9 o rozd\u00edly mezi pravou a levou kon\u010detinou. V m\u00e9m <\/a>p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b jde o probl\u00e9m slab\u00fdch ramen a disbalanc mezi pravou a levou rukou (v d\u016fsledku n\u011bkolika zlomenin a dominance prav\u00e9 ruky).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ne, nemus\u00edte zvedat z\u00e1va\u017e\u00ed. Posilovat m\u016f\u017ee ka\u017ed\u00fd podle toho, jak mu to vyhovuje. Kalistenika je velice dobr\u00fd za\u010d\u00e1tek, jeliko\u017e nen\u00ed pot\u0159eba nic, ne\u017e vlastn\u00ed t\u011blesn\u00e1 v\u00e1ha. Toto „posilov\u00e1n\u00ed“ z\u00e1rove\u0148 nemus\u00ed b\u00fdt c\u00edlen\u00e9 cvi\u010den\u00ed, ale sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed rozcvi\u010dky, spolu s nap\u0159\u00edklad dynamick\u00fdm stretchingem a mobilitou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Podle toho, jak\u00e1 svalov\u00e1 skupina v\u00e1s tr\u00e1p\u00ed, si vyberete cvi\u010den\u00ed. V\u0161eobecn\u011b ale lze p\u0159i proh\u0159\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed pou\u017e\u00edt tuto formulku:
1. D\u0159epy (s v\u00fdskokem) – Stehna, l\u00fdtka
2. Kliky (na kolenou) – Hrudn\u00edk, triceps
3. Rotace v ramenou – Ramena
4. „Superman“ – Spodn\u00ed z\u00e1da, b\u0159icho
5. Shyby (asistovan\u00e9) – Z\u00e1da, ruce<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yoga na v\u0161e<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Alternativn\u00ed zp\u016fsob pos\u00edlen\u00ed v\u0161ech svalov\u00fdch skupin a \u0159e\u0161en\u00ed t\u00e9matu kompenza\u010dn\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed pro lezce, je y\u00f3ga. A\u0165 u\u017e \u010dlov\u011bk jede podle aplikace, n\u00e1vodu nebo s\u00e1m, rutina y\u00f3gy jde postavit tak, aby c\u00edlila jak na prota\u017een\u00ed, mobilitu tak na pos\u00edlen\u00ed. Dodatek k tomu je to, \u017ee se d\u00e1 pou\u017e\u00edt jak na proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed p\u0159ed lezen\u00edm, tak jako cooldown po n\u011bm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pokud ale nejste zb\u011bhl\u00ed v tomto sportu a nejste si 100 % jist\u00ed jak si rutinu y\u00f3gy nastavit tak, aby plnila v\u0161echny aspekty, kter\u00e9 spadaj\u00ed pod kompenza\u010dn\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed pro lezce, doporu\u010dujeme jet podle aplikace – nap\u0159\u00edklad DownDog<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u0159\u00edklad kompenza\u010dn\u00ed rutiny<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pro ty, kte\u0159\u00ed si s t\u00e9matem kompenza\u010dn\u00edho cvi\u010den\u00ed nev\u011bd\u00ed rady, p\u0159ikl\u00e1d\u00e1m sv\u00e9 \u0159e\u0161en\u00ed. Osobn\u011b (J\u00e1nus) vol\u00edm strukturovat v\u011bt\u0161inu kompenzace kolem lezen\u00ed samotn\u00e9ho a na ve\u010der po. P\u0159ed lezen\u00edm se proh\u0159\u00edv\u00e1m kombinac\u00ed y\u00f3gy, dynamick\u00e9ho stretchingu a silov\u00e9ho tr\u00e9ninku (rutina v\u00fd\u0161e). Po lezen\u00ed pak vol\u00edm cooldown statick\u00fdm prota\u017een\u00edm a mobilitou. Ve\u010der po lezen\u00ed pak (v\u011bt\u0161inou) jde na \u0159adu 10-15 minutov\u00e1 rutina y\u00f3gy s c\u00edlem na klidn\u00e9 prota\u017een\u00ed a flow. Viz p\u0159ilo\u017een\u00fd rozpis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rozcvi\u010dka<\/strong><\/td>Na co?<\/td>Jak dlouho?<\/td>Prot.\/Uvol.\/Posil<\/td><\/tr>
\u0160vihadlo<\/td>Prod\u011bn\u00ed krve, zah\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed<\/td>5 min<\/td>Warming up<\/td><\/tr>
Dynamick\u00fd stretching (t\u011bl\u00e1k)<\/td>C\u00edlen\u00ed sval\u016f, prota\u017een\u00ed<\/td>5 min<\/td>Prota\u017een\u00ed<\/td><\/tr>
Mobilita kloub\u016f (ramena, ky\u010dle focus)<\/td>C\u00edlen\u00ed na probl\u00e9mov\u00e9 partie<\/td>5 min<\/td>Uvoln\u011bn\u00ed<\/td><\/tr>
Silov\u00e1 rutina (3x 5 cvik\u016f), dynamicky!<\/td>P\u0159\u00edprava na z\u00e1t\u011b\u017e<\/td>5 min<\/td>Posilov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/td><\/tr>
Proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed prst\u016f (hangboard, gumy)<\/td>viz. tu<\/a><\/td>Dle pot\u0159eby<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Cooldown <\/strong><\/td><\/td><\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Statick\u00fd stretching (cel\u00e9 t\u011blo)<\/td>Prota\u017een\u00ed sval\u016f<\/td>10 min<\/td>Prota\u017een\u00ed<\/td><\/tr>
Mobilita kloub\u016f (cel\u00e9 t\u011blo)<\/td>Uvoln\u011bn\u00ed nap\u011bt\u00ed, mobilita<\/td>10 min<\/td>Uvoln\u011bn\u00ed<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kompenza\u010dn\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed zakomponovan\u00e9 ro rozcvi\u010dky, p\u0159\u00edklad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kolem a kolem…<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Kompenza\u010dn\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed pro lezce by se nem\u011blo podce\u0148ovat. Jde o dobrou metodu jak zamezit nebo limitovat zran\u011bn\u00ed, ke kter\u00e9mu m\u016f\u017ee doj\u00edt. Prota\u017een\u00ed, uvoln\u011bn\u00ed a pos\u00edlen\u00ed t\u011bla nav\u00edc sebou nese hodn\u011b vedlej\u0161\u00edch \u00fa\u010dink\u016f, jako je relaxace, lep\u0161\u00ed pocit a uv\u011bdom\u011bn\u00ed si cvi\u010den\u00ed, co\u017e pak na sebe nabaluje v\u011bci spojen\u00e9 s v\u00e1hou<\/a>, hubnut\u00edm a stravou. Vzhledem k tomu, jak kr\u00e1tk\u00fd \u010das samotn\u00fd proces zabere, jen t\u011b\u017eko se ospravedl\u0148uje pro\u010d ho ned\u011blat. Pokud samoz\u0159ejm\u011b nejsme a\u017e moc l\u00edn\u00ed….<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zdroje<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
    \n
  1. RAJFOV\u00c1 S., 2012. Kompenza\u010dn\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed ve sportovn\u00edm lezen\u00ed, Masarykova univerzita, Fakulta sportovn\u00edch studi\u00ed, Bakal\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e1 pr\u00e1ce. kompenzacni_cviceni_ve_sport._final_2.pdf (muni.cz)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Redaktion. 2023. \u201cCompensation Training Is Good \u2013 if It\u2019s Done Right | Tips.\u201d Lacrux Klettermagazin. February 1, 2023. https:\/\/www.lacrux.com\/en\/training\/Compensatory-training-is-good-if-done-correctly-tips\/.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
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