{"id":11572,"date":"2024-08-06T10:36:57","date_gmt":"2024-08-06T08:36:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=11572"},"modified":"2024-08-06T10:37:02","modified_gmt":"2024-08-06T08:37:02","slug":"semifinale-sportovniho-lezeni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/semifinale-sportovniho-lezeni\/","title":{"rendered":"Olympijsk\u00e9 hry: Semifin\u00e1le sportovn\u00edho lezen\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"

Olympijsk\u00e9 hry jsou v pln\u00e9m proudu a semifin\u00e1le sportovn\u00edho lezen\u00ed u\u017e za\u010dalo. Kvalifikuje se jen 8 lezc\u016f z \u0159ad obou pohlav\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed postoup\u00ed do fin\u00e1le. Postupuj\u00ed atleti s nejv\u00edce body na konci boulderingu a lezen\u00ed na obt\u00ed\u017enost (lead). Sk\u00f3re se s\u010d\u00edt\u00e1, \u010d\u00edm\u017e se eliminuj\u00ed zvraty minul\u00fdch her v Tokiu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bouldering<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Semifin\u00e1le v boulderingu bylo opravdu zaj\u00edmav\u00e9! \u010cty\u0159i probl\u00e9my sest\u0159elily hodn\u011b olympionik\u016f a top\u016f opravdu nebylo hodn\u011b. Pro\u010d? Dalo by se to hodit na hlavu stav\u011b\u010d\u016fm a \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee cesty p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 p\u0159ep\u00e1lili nebo \u017ee m\u011bli lezci \u0161patn\u00fd den. To by ale bylo p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 reduktivn\u00ed a nereflektovalo by to realitu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00e1lo top\u016f?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Mal\u00fd po\u010det top\u016f byl zap\u0159\u00ed\u010din\u011bn zejm\u00e9na nov\u00fdm form\u00e1tem bodov\u00e1n\u00ed sportovn\u00edho lezen\u00ed na Hr\u00e1ch. Semifin\u00e1le sportovn\u00edho lezen\u00ed (jako OQS) pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 nov\u00fd bodovac\u00ed syst\u00e9m, kde jsou 2 z\u00f3ny, top a penalizace 0,1 bodu za ka\u017ed\u00fd pokus. Lezce tam mezi sebou d\u011bl\u00ed body, ne z\u00f3ny. Bouldery tomu byly tak\u00e9 \u00fam\u011brn\u011b p\u0159izp\u016fsobeny, tak\u017ee postup k topu je t\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed, aby dal v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed v\u00e1hu na postupov\u00e9 z\u00f3ny a po\u010det pokus\u016f. Proto je rozd\u00edl mezi mezi 2. a 3. jen 0,3 bodu a mezi Avezou <\/a>(4.), Ondra <\/a>(5.) jen 0,5 b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Adam Vs. Sv\u011bt<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

M\u00e1 Adam \u0160anci na medaili? Ur\u010dit\u011b zat\u00edm ano. Na lano, kter\u00e9 je jeho dominantou, postupuje z dobr\u00e9ho 5. m\u00edsta. Je prvn\u00ed mezi specialisty na lano, 4 body p\u0159ed Schubertem. Boulder specialist\u00e9 jako Narasaki <\/a>a zejm\u00e9na Sorato <\/a>opravdu z\u00e1\u0159ili, ale Adamova chv\u00edle teprve p\u0159ijde!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak si sk\u00f3re zat\u00edm stoj\u00ed, Adam m\u00e1 skv\u011ble nakro\u010deno do st\u0159ede\u010dn\u00edho druh\u00e9ho kola semifin\u00e1le v lezen\u00ed na obt\u00ed\u017enost, kter\u00e9 by ho m\u011blo procpat do jeho u\u017e druh\u00e9ho Olympijsk\u00e9ho fin\u00e1le.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Climbing difficulty<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Semifin\u00e1le sportovn\u00edho lezen\u00ed v obt\u00ed\u017enost zat\u00edm nebylo. Bude ve st\u0159edu (z\u00edtra), 07.08. od 10:00.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dojmy?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Zat\u00edm se Olympi\u00e1da zd\u00e1 jako nebe a dudy oproti minul\u00fdm hr\u00e1m v Tokiu. Rozvrh, kter\u00fd d\u00e1v\u00e1 lezc\u016fm den na odpo\u010dinek se zd\u00e1 b\u00fdt skv\u011bl\u00fd. To sam\u00e9 se m\u016f\u017ee \u0159\u00edct o bodov\u00e1n\u00ed a prozatimn\u00edch probl\u00e9mech, kter\u00e9 jsme vid\u011bli. Pokud jste koukali na p\u0159enos skrz \u010cT sport, tak m\u016f\u017eete b\u00fdt (jako j\u00e1) r\u00e1di, \u017ee kone\u010dn\u011b komentuje n\u011bkdo, kdo sportu rozum\u00ed, co\u017e je v p\u0159\u00edm\u00e9m kontrastu k IFSC v Praze, kde to byla absolutn\u00ed trag\u00e9die.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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