{"id":1201,"date":"2021-04-11T07:21:00","date_gmt":"2021-04-11T05:21:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ahold-climbing.cz\/?p=1201"},"modified":"2021-05-30T16:30:19","modified_gmt":"2021-05-30T14:30:19","slug":"tierrany-v14","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/tierrany-v14\/","title":{"rendered":"Tierrany V14"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Tento t\u00fdden se lezeck\u00e1 la\u0165ka v Yosemitks\u00e9m n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parku posunula op\u011bt o n\u011bco v\u00fd\u0161e. Duo lezc\u016f \u2013 Carlo Traversi a Jimmy Webb<\/a> \u2013 si toti\u017e zapsali nov\u00fd top boulderu v tomto \u00fadol\u00ed, kter\u00fd je hodnocen jako V14.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tierrany podle lezc\u016f nen\u00ed typick\u00fdm bouldrem pro Yosemitskou oblast. Traversi ho vystihl jako \u201em\u00e9n\u011b zr\u00e1dn\u00fd, silov\u00fd probl\u00e9m na p\u0159ijateln\u00fdch chytech\u201c a Webb jako \u201eprudk\u00fd, silovo-prstov\u00fd probl\u00e9m, 30 pohyb\u016f s neskute\u010dn\u00fdm protla\u010den\u00edm na konci\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pro Kaifornsk\u00e9 Yosemity jsou ikonick\u00e9 legend\u00e1rn\u00ed vertik\u00e1ln\u00ed st\u011bny, sp\u00e1ry a slab. Tierrany je ale pr\u00e1vem netradi\u010dn\u00ed probl\u00e9m pro tuto oblast. N\u00e1klon probl\u00e9mu je okolo 45 stup\u0148\u016f v jeho nejprud\u0161\u00edm, a to hned ze za\u010d\u00e1tku.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\"Boulder<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Crux probl\u00e9mu Tierrany je hned ze za\u010d\u00e1tku. Podle toho, co Traversi \u0159ekl pro str\u00e1nku Climbing, jsou nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm probl\u00e9mem prvn\u00ed t\u0159i pohyby. Mal\u00e9 \u00fazk\u00e9 pinche jsou charakteristick\u00e9 pro za\u010d\u00e1tek trasy. N\u00e1sledn\u00fdm probl\u00e9mem je zlom. M\u00edsto, kde p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed boulder z p\u0159evisu na slab. Crux 2 \u010di jen \u201emizern\u00e9 m\u00edsto\u201c nem\u00e1 chyt. Cel\u00fd osud topu v ten moment vis\u00ed na s\u00edle t\u011bla a schopnosti udr\u017eet se na kameni jen t\u0159en\u00edm a silou stisku pa\u017e\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kdo je Carlo Traversi a Jimmy Webb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Carlo Traversi<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Rod\u00e1k z americk\u00e9 Kalifornie, Traversi se jako mnoho elitn\u00edch lezc\u016f v\u011bnuje lezen\u00ed od \u00fatl\u00e9ho d\u011btstv\u00ed. Jako v\u00fdborn\u00fd lezec si nabrousil zuby na n\u011bkolika sv\u011btov\u00fdch nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00edch tras\u00e1ch a boulderech. Mezi nimi nap\u0159\u00edklad trasou Meltdown 8c+ (5.14c) v Yosemitech nebo bouldrov\u00fdm challengem \u201eTriple 14\u201c, kter\u00fd splnil jako prvn\u00ed na sv\u011bt\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Carlo Traversi je, mimo lezce, tak\u00e9 fotograf a filma\u0159 s \u010dty\u0159mi filmy a okolo sta nez\u00e1visl\u00fdch krat\u0161\u00edch film\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A post shared by Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali)<\/a><\/p><\/div><\/blockquote>