{"id":1395,"date":"2021-04-17T22:50:20","date_gmt":"2021-04-17T20:50:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ahold-climbing.cz\/?p=1395"},"modified":"2021-05-30T16:29:42","modified_gmt":"2021-05-30T14:29:42","slug":"ifsc-mistrovstvi-sveta-meiringen-boulder-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/ifsc-mistrovstvi-sveta-meiringen-boulder-2\/","title":{"rendered":"IFSC Mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta Meiringen – Boulder"},"content":{"rendered":"

Mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta je zp\u011bt! Prvn\u00ed kolo v boulderingu, hostovan\u00e9 ve \u0161v\u00fdcarsk\u00e9m Meiringenu, prob\u011bhlo mezi 15. a 17. dubnem. Fakt, \u017ee jde o prvn\u00ed mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta, kter\u00e9 se odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 ve stejn\u00fd rok s Olympijsk\u00fdmi hrami, se na sout\u011b\u017ei projevil. Z listu registrovan\u00fdch atlet\u016f chyb\u00ed n\u011bkolik jmen, kter\u00e1 byste od mistrovstv\u00ed v boulderingu \u010dekali.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nep\u0159\u00edtomn\u00ed jsou siln\u00ed \u010dlenov\u00e9 mu\u017esk\u00e9ho japonsk\u00e9ho boulderingov\u00e9ho t\u00fdmu. Chyb\u00ed oba brat\u0159i Michi a Tomoe Narasaki<\/a> and Kai Harada<\/a>. Kontrastem oproti tomu je fakt, \u017ee Mino Nonaka<\/a> and Akiyo Noguchi<\/a> jsou ob\u011b kvalifikovan\u00e9 do \u017eensk\u00e9ho semifin\u00e1le. Noguchi na prvn\u00edm a Nonaka na kontestovan\u00e9m des\u00e1t\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I kdy\u017e chyb\u00ed n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed \u010dlenov\u00e9 olympijsk\u00fdch t\u00fdm\u016f, kter\u00e9 bychom na mistrovstv\u00ed \u010dekali (nap\u0159. Shauna Coxsey<\/a>) je ud\u00e1lost p\u0159esto nap\u011bchovan\u00e1 zn\u00e1m\u00fdmi jm\u00e9ny. Mezi mu\u017ei nechyb\u00ed Adam Ondra<\/a>, Rishat Khaibullin<\/a>, Jan Hojer, Alex Megos<\/a>, Jakob Schubert<\/a> ani Micka\u00ebl Mawem<\/a>. Mezi \u017eenami pak figuruj\u00ed, mimo japonsky, jm\u00e9na jako je Mia Krampl, Jajna Garnbret<\/a> nebo hostuj\u00edc\u00ed Petra Klingler<\/a> with Jessicou Pilz<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Qualifications<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Do semi-fin\u00e1le se kvalifikovalo celkem 40 atlet\u016f. Dvacet mu\u017e\u016f a dvacet \u017een. O prvn\u00ed m\u00edsta \u017een se v semi-fin\u00e1le d\u011bl\u00ed Jajna Garbret<\/a> and Akiyo Noguchi<\/a>. Mezi mu\u017ei se d\u011bl\u00ed o prvn\u00ed m\u00edsto d\u011bli Kokoro Fujii a Adam Ondra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00dapln\u00e9 sk\u00f3re mu\u017eu k nalezen\u00ed zde: https:\/\/cdn.ifsc-climbing.org\/images\/Events\/Results\/2021\/IFSC_Meiringen_2021_Mens_Boulder_Qualification_Results.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00dapln\u00e9 sk\u00f3re \u017een k nalezen\u00ed zde: https:\/\/cdn.ifsc-climbing.org\/images\/Events\/Results\/2021\/IFSC_Meiringen_2021_Womens_Boulder_Qualification_Results.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Semifinal<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u010cty\u0159icet lezc\u016f a lezky\u0148 je utkalo v semi-fin\u00e1le a \u0161est postoupilo d\u00e1le! Za mu\u017ee na prvn\u00edm m\u00edst\u011b postupuje Adam Ondra a za \u017eeny Janja Garnbret.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1.<\/td>Kokoro Fujii<\/td>1.<\/td>Katja Debevec<\/td><\/tr>
2. <\/td>Nathaniel Coleman<\/td>2.<\/td>Vita Lukan<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>Sohta Amagasa<\/td>3.<\/td>Natalia Grossman<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Yoshiyuki Ogata<\/td>4.<\/td>Akiyo Noguchi<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Tomoaki Takata<\/td>5.<\/td>Orian Bertone<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Adam Ondra<\/td>6.<\/td>Janja Garnbret<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Final<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Leto\u0161n\u00ed mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta bylo obohaceno o n\u011bkolik aditivn\u00edch pravidel. Byl zaveden z\u00e1kaz crackov\u00fdch rukavic a kneepad\u016f. Z toho d\u016fvodu nastupoval Adam Ondra dnes bez sv\u00fdch ikonick\u00fdch vystrojen\u00fdch nohou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Men<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
1.<\/td>Adam Ondra<\/td>3T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
2.<\/td>Yoshiyuki Ogata<\/td>2T 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>Tomoaki Takata<\/td>1T 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Kokoro Fujii<\/td>1T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Nathaniel Coleman<\/td>1T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Sohta Amagasa<\/td>0T 3Z<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Prvn\u00ed mu\u017esk\u00fd boulder byl nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdm dynamick\u00fdm kyvadlov\u00fdm pohybem, kter\u00fd zdolal pouze jeden lezec. Statick\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup byl mo\u017en\u00fd skrze knee bar, ale nalezl ho ve sv\u00e9m posledn\u00edm pokusu pouze Adam Ondra<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Druh\u00fdm probl\u00e9m byly relativn\u011b p\u0159\u00edmo\u010dar\u00e9 kapsy a slab. Dyno do prvn\u00ed dvou-prstov\u00e9 kapsy (z\u00f3ny) a n\u00e1sledn\u011b statick\u00fd p\u0159edchod do lev\u00fdch kapes a k topu. Z\u00f3ny v tomto probl\u00e9mu dos\u00e1hli v\u0161ichni lezci, vylezl ho ale pouze Adam Ondra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u0159et\u00edm mu\u017esk\u00fdm probl\u00e9mem byl p\u0159evis slo\u017een\u00fd z velk\u00fdch sloper\u016f a volum\u016f. Celkov\u011b to byl „nejleh\u010d\u00ed“ z boulder\u016f s celkem t\u0159emi topy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Posledn\u00ed z probl\u00e9m\u016f byl, stejn\u011b jako t\u0159et\u00ed, nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd p\u0159evis. Tenhle byl ale o pozn\u00e1n\u00ed t\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed, ne\u017e t\u0159et\u00ed. Slo\u017een\u00fd dominant\u011b ze stisk\u016f a volum\u016f, Tento probl\u00e9m byl rozhoduj\u00edc\u00edm v boji o z\u00f3ny. Adamovi ale boulder sv\u011bd\u010dil a dovedl ho k celkov\u00e9mu zlat\u00e9mu m\u00edstu se t\u0159emi topy.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Women<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
1.<\/td>Janja Garnbret<\/td>T4 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
2.<\/td>Orian Bertone<\/td>2T 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>Natalia Grossman<\/td>2T 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Akiyo Noguchi<\/td>0T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Vita Lukan<\/td>0T 2Z<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Katja Debevec<\/td>0T 2Z<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Prvn\u00ed \u017eensk\u00fd probl\u00e9m byl ze sloper\u016f a crimp\u016f p\u0159evisu. Sekvence byla velice statick\u00e1 a d\u016frazn\u00e1 na balanc. Byl to p\u0159esn\u011b styl probl\u00e9mu Jajni Garnbret, kter\u00e1 probl\u00e9m zvl\u00e1dla na flash.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Druh\u00fd probl\u00e9m za\u010dal z\u00e1ke\u0159n\u00fdm koordina\u010dn\u00edm t\u0159\u00ed pohybov\u00fdm dynamem ze z\u00e1v\u011bsu. Samotn\u00fd za\u010d\u00e1tek byl ale probl\u00e9m. P\u0159esto\u017ee se ale poda\u0159ilo Oriane Bertone naj\u00edt alternativn\u00ed beta a topovat boulder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u0159et\u00ed boulder byl narozd\u00edl, od prvn\u00edho velice statick\u00fd a c\u00edlen\u00fd na balancov\u00e1n\u00ed. Slo\u017een\u00fd byl z p\u016flm\u011bs\u00edcov\u00fdch slab\u016f a mali\u010dkat\u00fdch stup\u016f. Oriane Bertone op\u011bt zaz\u00e1\u0159ila, kdy\u017e v posledn\u00ed vte\u0159in\u011b topovala!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Posledn\u00ed boulder byl prakticky rozst\u0159elem o zlato mezi Janjou Garnbret a Natalii Grossman. Boulder byl op\u011bt velice statick\u00fd a crimpov\u00fd se sp\u00e1rou p\u0159ed topem. K tomu m\u011bly ale probl\u00e9m se dostat. Ve fin\u00e1le ale byl probl\u00e9m rozhoduj\u00edc\u00ed.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Finally<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Prvn\u00ed kolo mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta v Meiringenu m\u011blo n\u011bkolik sv\u00fdch \u00fa\u017easn\u00fdch moment\u016f. Mus\u00edme zejm\u00e9na vyzdvihnout v\u00fdkon v\u00edt\u011bzky \u017eensk\u00e9 kategorie, Janjy Garnbret, kter\u00e9 zdolala v\u0161echny \u010dty\u0159i bouldery a zaslou\u017een\u011b si odnesla zlato!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nebylo by n\u00e1m odpu\u0161t\u011bno, kdybychom nezm\u00ednili v\u00fdkon mlad\u00e9, Oriane Bertone. Jej\u00ed t\u0159et\u00ed top, b\u011bhem posledn\u00ed vte\u0159iny je v\u00fdkon, je\u017e nebude v brzk\u00e9 dob\u011b zapomenut. Bertone si odnesla ze sv\u00e9ho prvn\u00edho dosp\u011bl\u00e9ho mistrovstv\u00ed st\u0159\u00edbro a rozhodn\u011b se nemus\u00ed za sv\u016fj v\u00fdkon styd\u011bt!<\/p>\n\n\n\n