{"id":1728,"date":"2021-05-24T20:54:13","date_gmt":"2021-05-24T18:54:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ahold-climbing.cz\/?p=1728"},"modified":"2023-08-16T17:27:43","modified_gmt":"2023-08-16T15:27:43","slug":"leva-plotna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/leva-plotna\/","title":{"rendered":"Left plate - Hlubo\u010depsk\u00e9 plates"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hlubo\u010depsk\u00e9 plates<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Number of trips:<\/strong> 20+7
Height:<\/strong> 40 m
Rock:<\/strong> Limestone
Trip Type:<\/strong> Laid down
GPS:<\/strong> 50.0431111N, 14.3908611E<\/a>
public transport<\/strong>: bus 120, 258, train Prague \u2013 \u017dvahov, Prague \u2013 Hlubo\u010depy
Parking: <\/strong>Hlubo\u010depsk\u00e1 and Pod \u017dvahovem streets
Pdf guide:<\/strong> here<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Lev\u00e1 platena is the largest and highest sector of the Hlubo\u010dep plate area. It is 40m of vertical limestone with dominantly small holds and stupas. The sector is excellently and safely secured, and its safeguards are regularly changed. The climbing is dominantly for advanced climbers with only three routes for beginners. Everything is climbed on the first. Hikers can move around on top of the rock and inadvertently drop rocks and debris down. Along with that, some paths, especially joints, are fragile. A helmet is therefore recommended for everyone who moves around the stove.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\"TOPO<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Left plate:<\/h3>\n

GPS: 50.0431111N, 14.3908611E<\/h6><\/a>\n\n \n \n
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Bloody Mary (1)<\/h5>\n
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6a+<\/b> (7-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n \n

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This path begins only a few meters below the top of the left loose slope at the end of the plate. The climb is divided into two sections, separated by a slightly crumbly ledge. The entire path is over micro holds and leads straight up to the ledge along two ledges. From there, it turns slightly to the left over two more borh\u00e1ks for abseiling. However, be extra careful, as the climber will move close to the left edge and the top of the plate, where there is a risk of increased crumbling.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 9m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 4 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>R. Z\u00e1vesk\u00fd, 13\/04\/2021
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Operation Anthropoid (1.1)<\/h5>\n
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6c\/6c+<\/b> (7+\/8-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n \n

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This route is the first of two variants of the Bloody Mary route. It has a total of four belay points, which end on the rock. The first half of the journey is the same as the maternity journey. It splits behind a crumbly edge, from where it goes straight up again via micro holds, over two boulders to abseil. As with Route #1, be extra careful around the top edge above the salt flat, which tends to crumble and debris falling from the summit.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 9m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 4 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>R. Z\u00e1vesk\u00fd, 22\/04\/2021
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Golden Veins (1.2)<\/h5>\n
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7a\/7a+<\/b> (8) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n \n

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This journey is the longest and most difficult in this trio of journeys. The first half is the same as the previous trips. From the edge, however, it leads slightly diagonally to the right, after a series of micro steps over three borh\u00e1ks to rappelling. Since this path leads mostly along the crumbly edge, it is necessary to watch out for loose pieces. Along with this, the same warnings apply as for the previous two routes.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 14m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 5 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>R. Z\u00e1vesk\u00fd, 17\/05\/2021
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Drop What's Wobbly (2) <\/h5>\n
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7a+<\/b> (VIII+) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n \n

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The path starts on the left on the slope near the ledge. Which leads to a corner and then over two piles on a shelf. The challenging part follows, climbing over three borh\u00e1ks to abseil. In the first half, the path is slightly crumbly and difficult to access through the loose slope.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 5 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>I. Semr\u00e1d, M. Tu\u010dka, 18 November 2018
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Grandpa Gibbon (3) <\/h5>\n
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7a<\/b> (VIII) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The last road before the start of the steep slope (marked with a red sign). It leads over four boulders to the shelf and to the abseiling shared with the Evi\u010dka no T-shirt route. If you climb after a period of heavy rains, we recommend taking a brush to clean the holds.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 4 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>Josef Sulke
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Evicka without a shirt (4) <\/h5>\n
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6b<\/b> (VIII) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n \n

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The road is marked with a red sign. It leads over three borh\u00e1ks, the first of which is relatively high on the left plate. At the last borh\u00e1k, the path turns to the left and leads to the shelf and to the rappelling joint with route No. 3 on the shelf.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 18m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 3 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>Josef Sulke
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Eve on the lookout (4.1) <\/h5>\n
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6c+<\/b> (VIII-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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Variant of route no. 4 Evi\u010dka Without T-shirt. It splits off at the 3rd borh\u00e1k, where it leads straight up with a slight turn to the right to the new cable car of routes 5. and 6.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 18m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 3 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong> —
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Railway route (5) <\/h5>\n
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6a+<\/b> (VII-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The path leads to the right of path No. 4. Evi\u010dka Bez Tri\u010dka. The first borh\u00e1k is high, but after that the path is well secured. It is allowed to climb the second borh\u00e1k with the hands using the edge. However, it must not be crossed, as it is secondary route No. 6. The climbing ends after the fourth borh\u00e1k by abseiling from the new circle to the shelf. There is a risk of slight crumbling when using the edge.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 20 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 4 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>M. Ber\u00e1nek, Z. Pachol\u00edk, 1967
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Stainless path (6) <\/h5>\n
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5c<\/b> (VI) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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A stainless steel path leads through three slats to the corner. Subsequently, using the last two ropes of route 5, to rappel together on the shelf. The climb before the edge is slightly crumbly and potentially loose (depending on the amount of debris in the crack).\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 5 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>M. Tu\u010dka, J. Ne\u0161vera, 24\/03\/2015
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Dogs are barking, the caravan is moving on (7) <\/h5>\n
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7c+<\/b> (IX+) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The path leads along the wall along the gap, over two boulders on the shelf. Further along the edge, over six borkhaks to divide in a horizontal joint. On this one, the path turns left and leads over three bolts to the abseil. The route is one of the longest routes on the plate and can be climbed using the multipitch technique over the slalom of route 8 on the shelf halfway up the route. Due to the length and roughness of the route, a helmet is recommended for both climbers and belayers.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 30 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 11 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>Miloslav Pletanek, 1995
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Weight 80 (7.1) <\/h5>\n
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7c<\/b> (IX) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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Weight 80 is a variant of route 7, from which it is divided on the third bolt. This variant continues after the split to the left along the edge over seven well-unlocked bolts to abseil. The rock is the most crumbly around the salt flat, so be extra careful at that point.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 25 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 10 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>P. Babinec, M. V\u00e1lek, 20\/02\/2017
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Camel at the Gate (Var 7.2) <\/h5>\n
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7c<\/b> (IX) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The second variant of route 7. This one separates from the original route at the eighth bolt in a horizontal joint. Where the original path leads to Dogs barking, the caravan continues to drive, turn right and continue over two bolts to the abseil.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 30 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 10 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>P. Babinec, M. Tu\u010dka, 10.2013
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Stronger Dog (8) <\/h5>\n
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5a<\/b> (V+) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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This route is the easiest route of the left Hlubo\u010dep Plateau. It leads up the stairs made of slats to the shelf and then through a slight traverse on the right to abseiling. The road is well secured, but the third bolt is not necessary. \n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 14m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 5 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>E. Jarol\u00edmov\u00e1, J. Ne\u0161vera, M. Tu\u010dka, 24\/03\/2015
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Stronger dog direct (8.1) <\/h5>\n
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6a+<\/b> (VII-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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Variant of number 8. Stronger dog, this path leads directly in the line of securing borkhas. It is about climbing on small holds, but the use of rails on the left is allowed.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 13m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 5 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>E. Jarol\u00edmov\u00e1, J. Ne\u0161vera, M. Tu\u010dka, 24\/03\/2015
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11 (9) <\/h5>\n
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8a+\/8b<\/b> (x) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The longest and most difficult route of the Hlubo\u010dep Plateau, climbed using the multipitch technique. The ascent is marked with the number 11. The path leads through small holds and is well secured by twelve bolts and a rope.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 35 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 12 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>Josef Sulke
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In the Shadow of the Guillotine (on the shelf) (10) <\/h5>\n
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8a<\/b> (X-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The start of the path is right at the exit from the small plate. The climber follows eight borkhaks to rappel, which is shared with route 11. The route is well secured and does not crumble.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 18m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 8 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>Josef Sulke
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Jax Menuju? (11) <\/h5>\n
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7b<\/b> (VIII+) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The route leads along six bolts along the right edge to a common abseil with route 10. You climb small holds and the edge. However, the edge is fragile and there is a risk of the stone falling in large blocks. A helmet is therefore recommended, especially for breakers!\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 18m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 6 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>Josef Sulke
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In the shadow of the guillotine (12) <\/h5>\n
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8a<\/b> (X-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The last of the long paths of the left plate starts just before the climbs of the small plate. It is secured by eleven bolts and two bolts. The route, like routes 7 and 9, climbs over a multipitch. The path leads along the gap to the right edge and the first mountain slope. It continues after three bolts to the top. The path is very breaking and a helmet for breakers is a must.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 30 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 11 + 2 salt flats
\n Author: <\/strong>Josef Sulke
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Left of Concert (13) <\/h5>\n
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7a<\/b> (VIII) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The first trip to the shelf (the top of the small plate). The beginning is unlocked with a bolt, on which the safety device is hung using a spacer. Four bolts follow along the path itself. Rappelling takes place from the last fixed belay back to the shelf.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 12m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 5
\n Author: <\/strong>—
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Shadow On The Wall (13.1) <\/h5>\n
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7b<\/b> (VIII+) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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Shadow on the Wall is an extension of the journey Left of the Concert. At the last bolt of route 13, the climber continues diagonally to the right. In this way, he gets over three bolts to rappel the 14th route, which he will use to descend. There is a risk of rock breaking on the left edge.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 25 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 8 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>J. Dama\u0161ek, A. Zdr\u00e1hal, 18 November 2018
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Canadian Walk (14) <\/h5>\n
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7c+<\/b> (IX+) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The path begins at the second shelf bolt. As with the previous two paths, a bolt is used here to anchor the circuit breaker. The climber thus has six (7 with the use of a breaker) bolts in front of him for abseiling and climbing tears.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 20 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 7 + salt shaker
\n Author: <\/strong>Josef Sulke
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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concert (15) <\/h5>\n
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7b<\/b> (VIII+) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The journey begins at the first abseil of the shelf, on which the second climber belays. A well-secured and very technical route awaits climbers along small holds over six boulders to their own abseil.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 20 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 6 + 2 salt flats
\n Author: <\/strong>M. Horejc, A. Kom\u00e1rek, 1987
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Complete disaster (16) <\/h5>\n
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7c<\/b> (IX) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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Finished Misfortune begins on the last slope before the crack in route 18. Balanc. The path leads through the middle of the wall over five bolts to abseiling. As with the previous route, it is a very technical route along small holds.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 20 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 5 + 2 salt flats
\n Author: <\/strong>O. Mal\u00fd, 1987
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Master or Disciple (17) <\/h5>\n
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7c<\/b> (IX) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The entrance to the route is slightly to the right of route 16. However, the second climber will secure himself in the same ropeway. The climber starts with the help of a crack and follows the wall, over five bolts to abseil. Use of the crack to the right of the path for foot position is not prohibited.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 18m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 5 + 2 salt flats
\n Author: <\/strong>P. Babinec, M. Tu\u010dka, 18.4.2012
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Balance (18) <\/h5>\n
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4<\/b> (IN-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The path from the left rappel through the fissure to belay. There are four bolts available, all to the left, leading to a potential pendulum. The path is slightly crumbly and overgrown. However, it is the easiest way of the stove.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 10 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 4 + 2 salt flats
\n Author: <\/strong>Gorbi et al.
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Nirvana (19) <\/h5>\n
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6b+<\/b> (VII+) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The second climber belays on the penultimate rappel of the plate, where the route begins. The climber has in front of him one of the "easier" routes of the left plate, well secured by three bolts ending at the joint rappelling of routes 18, 19 and 20.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 3 + 2 salt flats
\n Author: <\/strong>V. Kola\u0159\u00edk, Robert Hons, Richard Hons, 1987
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Ripped (20) <\/h5>\n
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6c+<\/b> (VIII-) <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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The start of the trail is at the last slope of the shelf. It is a four-bolt unlocked route to joint rappelling with the two previous ones. The use of the right edge of the midday two bolts is allowed.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 12m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 4 + 2 salt flats
\n Author: <\/strong>Z. Raim, 1988
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n