{"id":2399,"date":"2021-05-23T12:27:03","date_gmt":"2021-05-23T10:27:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ahold-climbing.cz\/?p=2399"},"modified":"2021-05-30T16:22:49","modified_gmt":"2021-05-30T14:22:49","slug":"ifsc-mistrovstvi-sveta-salt-lake-city-boulder","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/ifsc-mistrovstvi-sveta-salt-lake-city-boulder\/","title":{"rendered":"IFSC World Championship Salt Lake city - Boulder"},"content":{"rendered":"

The second round of the 2021 Bouldering World Championships is upon us. The championship took place between 21 and 23.05 and this time it was hosted in Salt Lake City in the US state of Utah. Just like the first round that took place in Meiringen in April<\/a>, even Salt Lake City was without several Olympic names.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The entire Japanese Olympic team (except Miho Nonaka<\/a>) but also the athletes who competed in Meiringen. For example, he didn't show up Rishat Khaibullin<\/a> or the winner of the previous round Janja Garnbret<\/a>. However, the spectators were still waiting to see the amazing performances of athletes from all countries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The American national team was especially successful, taking home gold and bronze. The crowned athletes are none other than Natalia Grossman with gold and the future Olympian Brooke Babout<\/a> with bronze.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Salt<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Qualifications<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

20 male and 20 female climbers qualified for the semi-finals. In the men's first place was Yoshiyuki Ogata of Japan with Adam Ondra in second. The women were led by Miho Nonaka with future winner Nath\u00e1lia Grossman in second place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Men's qualifying scores can be found here: https:\/\/cdn.ifsc-climbing.org\/images\/Events\/Results\/2021\/IFSC_Salt_Lake_City_21_May_M_Qualification.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Women's qualifying scores can be found here: https:\/\/cdn.ifsc-climbing.org\/images\/Events\/Results\/2021\/IFSC_Salt_Lake_City_21_May_W_Qualification.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Semifinal<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

After an exciting semi-final, a total of twelve athletes advanced to the final round. The men's six was more diversified. Among the women, however, the Americans and the Austrians ruled, each country having two finalists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1.<\/td>Kokoro Fujii<\/td>1.<\/td>Natalia Grossman<\/td><\/tr>
2. <\/td>Adam Ondra<\/td>2.<\/td>By Brooke Rabout<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>Gregor Vezonik<\/td>3.<\/td>Johanna Farber<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Jakob Schubert<\/td>4.<\/td>Jessica Pilz<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Anze Peharc<\/td>5.<\/td>Miho Nonaka<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Come on Schalcks<\/td>6.<\/td>Orian Bertone<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Final<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The finals of the World Bouldering Championships turned out, for some, exactly as they wished. Adam Ondra<\/a> he finished in first place again with the top of all four boulders. Among the women, Natalia Grossman was the same way. To Jakob Schubert<\/a> he missed the second post by one zone and Mejdi Schalcks from France stood in his place on his first silver post. His compatriot, 16-year-old Oriane Bertone, who shone last time and also placed on the silver post, also grabbed the silver, making France the second most successful country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\n
\n

Men<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
1.<\/td>Adam Ondra<\/td>4T 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
2.<\/td>Come on Schalcks<\/td>3T 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>Jakob Schubert<\/td>3T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Kokoro Fujii<\/td>3T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Anze Peharc<\/td>1T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Gregor Vezonik<\/td>1T 2Z<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The men's first boulder was the second most difficult, with only three tops and two zones. The beginning was an unpleasant weak dynamo, which was followed by three more demanding lateral pulls. The whole problem thus focused on working with the center of gravity and the ability to hold on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The second problem was almost the opposite of the first. A very slow problem on small, bad and very slippery steps. However, it proved not to be much of a problem for the climbers. Five won the top and only Perharc walked away with the zone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The third men's problem was, like the women's, by far the most difficult. Only the first three managed to climb it, the rest left without a zone. The entire boulder started with a foot stuck in clutches<\/a> upside down and then proceeded to follow relatively good looking pinches upside down. A style that fits exactly into the repertoire of Adam Ondra, who also gave the problem a try on the first try.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The last problem was "light" compared to the previous ones. Boulder was very powerful and composed of big pinches and dynamos starting in a small box. The crux seemed to be getting from the zone to the top via a very powerful little box and bottom stroke<\/a>. With four tops and two zones, this was one of the more successful boulders of the final.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n

Women<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
1.<\/td>Natalia Grossman<\/td>4T 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
2.<\/td>Orian Bertone<\/td>3T 4Z<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>By Brooke Rabout<\/td>3T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Miho Nonaka<\/td>3T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Jessica Pilz<\/td>1T 3Z<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Johanna Farber<\/td>1T 2Z<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The first problem for the women was the vertical combination of slopers and small edges, or crimps<\/a>. The female climbers started with friction holds at the start and then moved into three movements on crimps. The issue ended with a large pocket. Overall, this issue received tops from everyone except Jessica Pilz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the second female climber, a more powerful problem awaited her. The main building blocks this time were lateral strokes and large volumes, which forced female athletes into small boxes. Even so, the five finalists managed to hit the boulder and win the zone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The third boulder turned out to be the second most difficult. Only the Americans Grossman and Raboutou were able to climb it, the rest (except Nonaka) were given zones. The problem was built on balancing and careful work with the center of gravity. Large slopers with no secure hold also contributed to the difficulties.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The final and hardest boulder was what smaller climbers fear. A high level dynamic problem, the main difficulty of which was to get to the zone through the jump. Many female climbers had a problem with this dynamo, as they were not able to reach the necessary pinch<\/a>. The result also corresponds to this. Half of the climbers won the top and half left empty-handed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
  • \"Brooke<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"Kvalifikace<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"Mistrovstvi<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"Stupe\u0148<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"Adam<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"Adam<\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Finally<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    The second round of the World Championship, this time in Salt Lake City, was definitely not a boring spectacle. An interesting beta, great performances and lots of new climbers combined with the crowd (thanks to the outdoor stage) made for a great show.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Especially nice were the performances of "newbies" Natalie Grossman and Mejdi Schalck, who took home their first gold and silver medals from the World Championships.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n