{"id":3012,"date":"2021-07-19T10:20:08","date_gmt":"2021-07-19T08:20:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ahold-climbing.cz\/?p=3012"},"modified":"2021-07-19T10:21:21","modified_gmt":"2021-07-19T08:21:21","slug":"ifsc-mistrovstvi-sveta-briancon-lead","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/ifsc-mistrovstvi-sveta-briancon-lead\/","title":{"rendered":"IFSC Briancon World Championship - Lead"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u010ctvrt\u00e9 kolo mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta v\u00a0lezen\u00ed na obt\u00ed\u017enost 2021 pr\u00e1v\u011b skon\u010dilo. Mistrovstv\u00ed se konalo mezi 16. a 18. \u010dervencem ve\u00a0Francii. Stejn\u011b jako p\u0159ede\u0161l\u00e9 kolo i toto bylo bez olympijsk\u00fdch atlet\u016f. Jedin\u00fdm olympijsk\u00fdm atletem, kter\u00fd se tohoto mistrovstv\u00ed z\u00fa\u010dastnil je Alberto Gin\u00e9z L\u00f3pez<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nen\u00ed nijak p\u0159ekvapiv\u00e9, \u017ee pouze t\u00fdden p\u0159ed za\u010d\u00e1tkem Her v Tokiu, chyb\u00ed na tomto kole mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta 39. za 40. olympijsk\u00fdch atlet\u016f. Chyb\u00ed p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b tak\u00e9 m\u00e9n\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00ed lezci jako Colin Duffy<\/a> nebo Tom O\u00b4Halloran, kter\u00fdm by mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta bez hlavn\u00ed konkurence pomohlo. Nam\u00edsto toho je v\u0161ak kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pohled na m\u00e9n\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00e1 jm\u00e9na v lezeck\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00dasp\u011b\u0161n\u00fd byl hlavn\u011b \u010desk\u00fd t\u00fdm. Oba na\u0161i p\u0159\u00edtomn\u00ed lezci – Martin Str\u00e1n\u00edk a Eli\u0161ka Adamovsk\u00e1 – si odvezli medaile. Martin si dobil druh\u00fd bronz v leto\u0161n\u00edm roce. Eli\u0161ka naopak z\u00edskala sv\u00e9 prvn\u00ed zlato.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Qualifications<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Do semifin\u00e1le se kvalifikovalo 20 lezc\u016f a 20 lezky\u0148. Na mu\u017esk\u00e9m prvn\u00edm m\u00edst\u011b byl Luka Potokar ze Slovinska. \u017deny vedla Nathalia Grossman co\u017e je lezkyn\u011b, kter\u00e1 si letos ji\u017e p\u0159ipsala n\u011bkolik medailov\u00fdch post\u016f. P\u0159esto\u017ee Adam Ondra se tohoto mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta ne\u00fa\u010dastnil, kvalifikovali se dva \u010de\u0161t\u00ed lezci. Jsou jimi Martin Str\u00e1n\u00edk (4.) a Eli\u0161ka Adamovsk\u00e1 (6.).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Men's qualifying scores can be found here: https:\/\/www.ifsc-climbing.org\/index.php\/world-competition\/calendar\/?task=resultathletes&event=1196&result=1<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Women's qualifying scores can be found here: https:\/\/www.ifsc-climbing.org\/index.php\/world-competition\/calendar\/?task=resultathletes&event=1196&result=5<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Semifinal<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Po velice kr\u00e1sn\u00e9m semifin\u00e1le postoupilo celkem \u0161estn\u00e1ct atlet\u016f do posledn\u00edho kola. Mu\u017esk\u00e1 osmi\u010dka byla v\u00edce diverzifikovan\u00e1. Mezi \u017eenami v\u0161ak vl\u00e1dly Ameri\u010danky a Slovinky. Ka\u017ed\u00fd st\u00e1t m\u011bl dv\u011b finalistky. V obou kategori\u00edch postoupili i \u010de\u0161t\u00ed lezci!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je zde nutn\u00e9 \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee \u017eeny m\u011bly mnohem v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed \u00fasp\u011b\u0161nost v\u00a0dolezen\u00ed ne\u017e mu\u017ei. Z osmi mu\u017esk\u00fdch atlet\u016f, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd nedolezl k\u00a0topu. Nejv\u00fd\u0161e se dostal Stefano Ghisolfi a Sean Bailey \u2013 42 chyt. Naopak u \u017een topu dos\u00e1hlo hned n\u011bkolik lezky\u0148. Z\u00a0osmi kvalifikovan\u00fdch finalistek je k\u00a0vrcholku cesty dostalo prvn\u00edch p\u011bt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1.<\/td>Stefano Ghisolfi<\/td>1.<\/td>Natalia Grossman<\/td><\/tr>
2. <\/td>Sean Bailey<\/td>2.<\/td>Lucka Rakovec<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>Dmitrii Fakirianov<\/td>3.<\/td>Eli\u0161ka Adamovsk\u00e1<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Martin Stranik<\/td>4.<\/td>Vita Lukan<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Sasha Lehmann<\/td>5.<\/td>Ashima Shiraishi<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Luka Potocar<\/td>6.<\/td>Aleksandra Totkova<\/td><\/tr>
7.<\/td>Alberto Gin\u00e9z L\u00f3pez<\/td>7.<\/td>Lana Skusek<\/td><\/tr>
8.<\/td>Fedir Samoilov<\/td>8.<\/td>Ryu Nakagawa<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Final<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Fin\u00e1le mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta v\u00a0boulderingu dopadlo, pro n\u011bkter\u00e9 p\u0159esn\u011b tak, jak si p\u0159\u00e1li. I bez Ondry<\/a> se \u010de\u0161t\u00ed lezci chopili zlata v \u017eensk\u00e9 a bronzu v mu\u017esk\u00e9 kategorii. Z\u00e1vod v\u0161ak byl velice nap\u00ednav\u00fd. Jak Str\u00e1n\u00edka tak Adamovskou d\u011blil od dal\u0161\u00edho lezce pouze jeden chyt. Nechyb\u011blo tak mnoho a byli by p\u0159ekon\u00e1ni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Men<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
1.<\/td>Stefano Ghisolfi<\/td>42<\/td><\/tr>
2.<\/td>Dmitrii Fakirianov<\/td>39<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>Martin Stranik<\/td>37<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Sean Bailey<\/td>36<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Sasha Lehmann<\/td>35<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Fedir Samoilov<\/td>35<\/td><\/tr>
7.<\/td>Alberto Gin\u00e9z L\u00f3pez<\/td>27<\/td><\/tr>
8.<\/td>Luka Potocar<\/td>22<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cesta pro mu\u017ee byla slo\u017eena prakticky v\u00fdhradn\u011b z\u00a0chyt\u016f na t\u0159en\u00ed (slopery<\/a>) a velk\u00fdch \u017elut\u00fdch struktur. Sem tam byly do tohoto mixu vhozeny li\u0161ty (crimps<\/a>) nebo stisky (pinch<\/a>), ale dominanta byla postavena na t\u0159en\u00ed. Styl, kter\u00fdm to mnoha z\u00a0lezc\u016f pojala, byl zalo\u017een\u00fd na vysok\u00fdch noh\u00e1ch a bo\u010dn\u00edch taz\u00edch, kter\u00fd umo\u017enil lezc\u016fm z\u016fstat pohodln\u011b v\u00a0p\u0159evise. Bohu\u017eel ani zde jsme se nedo\u010dkali fin\u00e1ln\u00edho Beta, jeliko\u017e v\u00edt\u011bz tohoto kola \u2013 Stefano Ghisolfi \u2013 spadl pouze n\u011bkolik krok\u016f p\u0159ed topem samotn\u00fdm.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Women<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
1.<\/td>Eli\u0161ka Adamovsk\u00e1<\/td>36<\/td><\/tr>
2.<\/td>Natalia Grossman<\/td>35<\/td><\/tr>
3.<\/td>Vita Lukan<\/td>29<\/td><\/tr>
4.<\/td>Ashima Shiraishi<\/td>27<\/td><\/tr>
5.<\/td>Ryu Nakagawa<\/td>27<\/td><\/tr>
6.<\/td>Lucka Rakovec<\/td>26<\/td><\/tr>
7.<\/td>Lana Skusek<\/td>24<\/td><\/tr>
8.<\/td>Aleksandra Totkova<\/td>22<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\u017densk\u00e1 fin\u00e1lov\u00e1 cesta byla slo\u017eena z p\u016flky z troj\u00faheln\u00edkov\u00fdch struktur. Ty dopl\u0148ovaly chyty na t\u0159en\u00ed (slopery<\/a>) a li\u0161ty (crimps<\/a>). Zhruba v\u00a0polovin\u011b byl vytvo\u0159en postupn\u00fd p\u0159echod od t\u0159ec\u00edch chyt\u016f k\u00a0li\u0161t\u00e1m. Tam byl tak\u00e9 nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed moment cel\u00e9 cesty, kter\u00fdm byl velk\u00fd nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd k\u0159\u00ed\u017e na mali\u010dkat\u00fdch li\u0161t\u00e1ch. Pr\u00e1v\u011b ten mohl za p\u00e1d dvou lezky\u0148.
Po tomto \u201ecruxu\u201c cesty, ji\u017e n\u00e1sledovaly skoro v\u00fdhradn\u011b li\u0161ty a struktury. Bohu\u017eel jsme nevid\u011bli beta u posledn\u00ed \u010dtvrtiny, jeliko\u017e se \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 z\u00a0lezky\u0148 nedostala k\u00a0Topu.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n