{"id":3284,"date":"2021-07-31T09:59:04","date_gmt":"2021-07-31T07:59:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ahold-climbing.cz\/?p=3284"},"modified":"2022-06-12T10:41:13","modified_gmt":"2022-06-12T08:41:13","slug":"michael-piccolruaz-olympijske-hry-2021","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/michael-piccolruaz-olympijske-hry-2021\/","title":{"rendered":"Michael Piccolruaz"},"content":{"rendered":"
Nationality<\/td>Italy<\/td><\/tr>
Birthdate<\/td>31.12.1995<\/td><\/tr>
Height<\/td>178 cm<\/td><\/tr>
Ape index<\/td>—-<\/td><\/tr>
Style<\/td>Bouldering<\/td><\/tr>
Biggest competitive success<\/td>Bronz na kombinovan\u00e9m mistrovstv\u00ed Evropy 2017<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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 Michael Piccolruaz je posledn\u00edm kvalifikovan\u00fdm \u010dlenem italsk\u00e9ho olympijsk\u00e9ho t\u00fdmu, ale tak\u00e9 dvac\u00e1t\u00fdm (a posledn\u00edm) mu\u017esk\u00fdm kvalifikovan\u00fdm lezcem na Hry v Tokiu. V Tokiu poleze spolu s krajany a expertkou na lezen\u00ed na obt\u00ed\u017enost Laurou Rogorou<\/a> a rychlostn\u00edm specialistou Ludovicem Fossalim<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Career<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Kari\u00e9ra tohoto italsk\u00e9ho lezce, byla asi nejm\u00e9n\u011b zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 z cel\u00e9ho italsk\u00e9ho olympijsk\u00e9ho t\u00fdmu. L\u00e9zt za\u010dal ve velice \u00fatl\u00e9m v\u011bku. Prvn\u00ed v\u00fdstup na \u201ehoru\u201c m\u00e1 ji\u017e ve \u010dty\u0159 letech, ale nesv\u011b\u0159il se, co za vrchol to byl. Mezi juniory ani mladistv\u00fdmi se bohu\u017eel na sv\u011btov\u00e9m poh\u00e1ru neum\u00edstil. Stal se v\u0161ak dvojn\u00e1sobn\u00fdm mistrem Evropy v boulderingu junior\u016f, a to v letech 2011 a op\u011bt v roce 2013. Pr\u00e1v\u011b rok 2013 a p\u0159echod z junior\u016f do dosp\u011bl\u00fdch sout\u011b\u017e\u00ed mu odstartoval t\u0159i relativn\u011b \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00e9 roky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V roce 2013, mimo titul mistra Evropy, stanul tak\u00e9 na p\u00f3diu se zlatem na mistrovstv\u00ed It\u00e1lie v boulderingu a z\u00edskal Italsk\u00fd poh\u00e1r ve stejn\u00e9 discipl\u00edn\u011b. V roce 2014 a 2015 z\u00edskal pak na sv\u00e9m st\u00e1tn\u00edm mistrovstv\u00ed dv\u011b dal\u0161\u00ed st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9 medaile. Tam v\u0161ak jeho \u00fasp\u011bch skon\u010dil. Op\u011bt se um\u00edstil na postu v\u00edt\u011bz\u016f ve vysok\u00e9 sout\u011b\u017ei a\u017e v roce 2017, kdy po druh\u00e9 v \u017eivot\u011b stanul na p\u00f3diu mistrovstv\u00ed Evropy a odvezl si st\u0159\u00edbro z boulderingu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Michael Piccolruaz tr\u00e1v\u00ed hodn\u011b sv\u00e9ho \u010dasu venku na mnoha italsk\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch a skal\u00e1ch, a to jak na lan\u011b, tak na bouldrech. Jeho nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edmi v\u00fdstupy jsou \u201eHelmutant\u201c 9a (XI) a boulder \u201eLa Grosse Tarlouze\u201c, hodnocena jako 8c (V15), kter\u00fd se nach\u00e1z\u00ed ve \u0161v\u00fdcarsk\u00e9 oblasti Magic Wood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Michael Piccolruaz a Tokio 2021<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jak to bohu\u017eel u lezc\u016f na konci t\u00e9to s\u00e9rie b\u00fdv\u00e1, Michael Piccolruaz nem\u00e1 mnoho \u0161anc\u00ed na v\u00fdhru v Tokiu. Z italsk\u00e9ho t\u00fdmu je nejm\u00e9n\u011b pravd\u011bpodobn\u00fdm medailistou (Laura Rogora m\u00e1 pak \u0161anci nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed). Jeho zvolen\u00e1 dominantn\u00ed discipl\u00edna \u2013 tedy bouldering \u2013 ho stav\u00ed proti t\u011bm nejlep\u0161\u00edm boulderist\u016fm na planet\u011b, jako je Narasaki<\/a>, Ondra<\/a> or Hojer<\/a>. Pr\u00e1v\u011b ty by musel porazit a um\u00edstit se na prvn\u00edm m\u00edst\u011b, aby byl schopen z\u00edskat medailov\u00fd post.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Smutn\u00fdm faktem ale je to, \u017ee v boulderingu skon\u010d\u00ed sp\u00ed\u0161e ve spodn\u00ed polovin\u011b. Stejn\u011b tak tomu bude v lezen\u00ed na obt\u00ed\u017e, kde pouze t\u011b\u017eko poraz\u00ed Ondru, Megos<\/a>, Schubert<\/a> or Haradu<\/a>. Realisticky zde m\u016f\u017ee doufat nejl\u00e9pe v sedm\u00e9 m\u00edsto. To sam\u00e9 pak v rychlostn\u00edm lezen\u00ed. Krajana Fossaliho, Bassu Mawema<\/a> or Khaibullina<\/a> poraz\u00ed jen velice t\u011b\u017eko. Je mo\u017en\u00e9, \u017ee by se zde um\u00edstil dob\u0159e, ale pod p\u00e1t\u00e9 m\u00edsto to nejsp\u00ed\u0161e nebude. Jeho kombinovan\u00e9 sk\u00f3re se bude pohybovat v ide\u00e1ln\u00edm p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b kolem 200 bod\u016f (co\u017e je sp\u00ed\u0161e naivn\u00ed optimismus, kter\u00fd st\u00e1le na medailov\u00fd post nesta\u010d\u00ed.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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European Championship 2017<\/td>Combination<\/td>Bronze<\/td><\/tr>
Mistrovstv\u00ed It\u00e1lie 2015<\/td>Bouldering<\/td>Silver<\/td><\/tr>
Mistrovstv\u00ed It\u00e1lie 2014 <\/td>Difficulty<\/td>Silver <\/td><\/tr>
Mistrovstv\u00ed It\u00e1lie 2013 <\/td>Bouldering<\/td>Gold <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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