{"id":4104,"date":"2021-10-22T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-10-22T06:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ahold-climbing.cz\/?p=4104"},"modified":"2024-03-28T13:21:19","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T11:21:19","slug":"lezecka-jistitka-druhy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/lezecka-jistitka-druhy\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing belays - types"},"content":{"rendered":"

Climbing belays are about as diverse as they come seats<\/a> and climbing shoes<\/a>. That's why we are here to advise you, to tell you which species are most suitable for which type of climbing and, of course, how much such fun will cost you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

First let me say that fuses (be they frames, grigris or buckets) are not something you want to skimp on and get from reputable manufacturers. We know that climbing is a relatively expensive sport, but skimping on something that is a primary means of protection is not entirely wise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are really a lot of safeties. Here we will divide them into three categories 1. unassisted 2. assisted and 3. semi-assisted safety devices. The difference is in how the belay behaves with the rope. Whether she lets him slip (unassisted), whether she stops him (assisted) or whether it is a certain combination of these possibilities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unassisted climbing belay<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Bucket<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The bucket is the cheapest and most used climbing belay of our time. It is a very simple and multifunctional device that is suitable for single-pitch and double-pitch climbing. Thanks to its simplicity and low price, it is the first type of belay for most climbers and the belay we all return to in the finale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are two types of buckets. Both are mechanically the same. It is a belay device without assistance, which works on the principle of friction between the carabiner, bucket and rope. But there is a small difference, which is the so-called guide mode. A metal eye in the bucket that allows more length climbing. If the bucket does not have this eye, it is used solely and exclusively for single-length<\/a> roads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although climbing belays are more expensive, the bucket is not. A standard bucket without guide mode can usually be bought for 350 crowns, and a larger one with guide mode is around 500 CZK.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kybl\u00edk,
climbing belay - bucket with guide mode<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Climbing (rape) eighth<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The climbing or abseiling eight is a climbing belay that new climbers don't come across very often these days. It fell out of popularity as a fuse because of new and better fuses such as the bucket. However, it was widely used before. It works on the same principle as a bucket. A downward pull on the rope stops its movement and the climber stays in place (or stops falling).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, eights are primarily used for abseiling on one or two ropes at the same time. For that reason, this belay also began to be called abseiling eight. But it is still widely used in climbing competitions for difficulty, especially speed-climbing for difficulty (as in Arc Duel masters, not the Olympic one), as it allows the smoothest and fastest rope feed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Assisted climbing belay<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Assisted safety devices are slightly safer than all others. But it is necessary to say that even though it seems that with this species you can let go of the rope because it "gets stuck", this is not the case. The breaker must never let go of the securing piece of rope!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

GriGri<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The GriGri (although it is a model from Petzl, but it will serve as an excellent example for us here) is an assisted belay device used a lot in the USA and at higher, multi-length<\/a> outputs. This type of fuse is relatively "complicated" compared to other fuses. This is due to the braking mechanism that is inside the fuse. This mechanism assists the belayer when the climber falls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This type of fuse has several advantages. In addition to great safety (especially suitable for rocks, where debris or stones often fall on the breakers), this type also has a "launch brake", which enables a very smooth and very precise launch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The disadvantage of this type of belay is that not all rope thicknesses can fit into it. Along with that, if the rope is old and bent, it will be belayed poorly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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