{"id":4711,"date":"2022-04-15T21:54:48","date_gmt":"2022-04-15T19:54:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=4711"},"modified":"2023-08-16T16:46:13","modified_gmt":"2023-08-16T14:46:13","slug":"zedkovy-bloky-divoka-sarka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/zedkovy-bloky-divoka-sarka\/","title":{"rendered":"Zedkov's Blocks - Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Number of trips:<\/strong> 9 + 1
Height:<\/strong> 15 m
Rock:<\/strong> Buli\u017en\u00edk
Type of Journey:<\/strong> Vertical
GPS:<\/strong> 50.1019722N, 14.3228611E<\/a>
public transport:<\/strong> Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka bus and tram stop, Jener\u00e1lka and School Nebu\u0161ice bus stops
Parking:<\/strong> At McDonald's, Vlastina Street, Nebu\u0161ice, Ke Skal\u00e1m Street, parking lot at Restaurant Jener\u00e1lka
Pdf guide:<\/strong> here<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Zedkov blocks are one of the most accessible climbing sectors inside Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka. The blocks are very easily accessible from the road, a few tens of meters from the Devil's Mill. The climbing here is dominantly traditional, with only one sport belayed route. The sector is composed of two rocks adjacent to the Nebu\u0161ick\u00e1 viewpoint. Unlike many sectors in Prague, such as Small hot plate<\/a> or Pine rock<\/a>, it is not possible to deploy toprope from the top of the rock on the Zedkov blocks. Since it is the Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka reserve, it is forbidden to go off-road and destroy nature. Trying to deploy belay from the top leads to both of these things. That is why it is necessary to have your own traditional belaying - wedges or friends - to secure in the joints of the rock. The massif itself is quite dirty and overgrown with moss, which is due to the humidity of the sector and the fact that it is rarely climbed.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\"Zedkovy
Zedkov block<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Zedka blocks<\/h3>\n

GPS: 50.1019722N, 14.3228611E<\/a><\/h6>\n\n \n
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Corner at three overhangs (1)<\/h5>\n
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2+<\/b> (III)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The first road of the sector is traditionally all unlocked. It leads in a logical corner on the left side of the left wall. The line is not the hardest, but it can be treacherous. Insurance is all traditional.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 12m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1986
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Three overhangs (2)<\/h5>\n
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4c<\/b> (IN)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n Like the previous path, this one is also very straightforward. Marked by an arrow on the stone, it leads straight up over three small overhangs. The road is overgrown with moss and dirty. It is unlocked, just like route No. 1, traditionally.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 12m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1986
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Overhang (3)<\/h5>\n
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5c<\/b> (VI)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The path starts at the vertical wall to the left of the memorial plaque. From there, it continues to the left under an overhang in a triangular wall, where the climber secures himself in the borh\u00e1k. Here it continues straight up over an overhang, a smaller wall up to rappelling. \n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 18m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 2 rivets + Traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1986
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Drill (4)<\/h5>\n
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6b+<\/b> (VIII)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The drill runs along the vertical wall between the memorial plaque and the P\u0159evis road. It climbs straight up, locking into two rivets. The vertical wall is followed by a small balcony and a smaller wall for abseiling. In the second wall, it is necessary to secure yourself with your own protection.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 3 rivets + Traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Tu\u010dka, Petra\u0161ovsk\u00fd, 2011
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Zedka joint (5)<\/h5>\n
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5b<\/b> (VI-)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The path leads through a corner gap to the left of the memorial plaque. The first belay is relatively high up on the path covered with moss, here you need to secure yourself with your own belay. In addition, there are two borh\u00e1ks in the way, one at 7 meters and the other in the overhang, over which the climber can reach the abseil.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 2 borh\u00e1ks + Traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1968
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Zedka joint variant (5.1)<\/h5>\n
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4c<\/b> (IN)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n This route is a variant of the Zedka joint, but it is climbed without the final overhang. The climber bypasses it via the balcony of the Vrt\u00e1k road and reaches the abseil.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 1 borh\u00e1k + Traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1968
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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In the middle (6)<\/h5>\n
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5c<\/b> (VI)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The last road to the left of the plaque. Route No. 8 leads directly through the middle of the rock below the abseiling. The climber climbs up and secures himself with the help of the smallest wedges and friends and one bollard.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 1 borh\u00e1k + Traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Tu\u010dka, Kulajta, 2011
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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In the middle (7)<\/h5>\n
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4c<\/b> (IN)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n Path to the right of the board without a fixed belay. The climber must use (roughly 4) small wedges or friends. Here, the line leads along a small, almost finger-like gap, over an overhang to abseil.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> Traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Tu\u010dka, Kulajta, 2011
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Corner (8)<\/h5>\n
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2<\/b> (II)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n A line leading through a large corner in the right part of the rock massif. It is necessary to use traditional protection here. The climber goes up the corner to the balcony, where he then turns left and descends to the abseil.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> Traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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four (9)<\/h5>\n
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2<\/b> (II)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n This line is the last and at the same time the shortest route of the sector. As with the previous one, there is no fixed security here either. It is a short journey along good holds to the abseiling itself at the top.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 10 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> Traditional
\n Author:<\/strong> Filip Zaoral, 13\/11\/2013
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Lezeck\u00fd<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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