{"id":4723,"date":"2022-03-30T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-03-30T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=4723"},"modified":"2022-05-23T11:41:17","modified_gmt":"2022-05-23T09:41:17","slug":"novy-kombinovany-format-ifsc","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/novy-kombinovany-format-ifsc\/","title":{"rendered":"New combined IFSC format"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The new combined IFSC format is here. After, the relatively chaotic first ones<a href=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/kombinovany-format-lezeni-olympijskych-her\/\"> Climbing Olympic Games in Tokyo<\/a>, it was necessary to change the combined format. Revision cuts <a href=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/rychlostni-lezeni-zrod\/\">speed climbing<\/a> (much to the delight of many) and focuses on the climbing format that will be at the Paris 2024 Olympics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"prehled\">Overview<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Combination or the new IFSC combined format, focuses on bouldering and climbing difficulty scoring. In total, a climber can get up to 200 points in combination, 100 for bouldering and 100 for difficulty. The climber with the highest number of points wins. The goal is to avoid confusing multiplication and moving standing podium positions <a href=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/adam-ondra-olympijske-hry-2021\/\">Ondra<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/tomoa-narasaki-olympijske-hry-2021\/\">Narasaki<\/a> medal last summer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"bouldering\">Bouldering<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>This is probably the biggest difference. In each round (first round, semi-final, final) to which a competitor advances, there will be four problems rated at 25b. each. Boulders will have 2 zones (compared to one before) and a top. The lower zone will be worth 3 points, the higher zone will be worth 6, and the top will get a full 25 points. At the same time, climbers will lose 1 point for each unsuccessful attempt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Here, climbers like <a href=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/janja-garnbret-olympijske-hry-2021\/\">Janja Garbret<\/a>, who can top everything on the first try.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full img100\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1880\" height=\"1253\" src=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782.jpeg\" alt=\"lezec s lanem na zadech, pripravujici se na zavody IFSC v boulderingu a na lead climbing\" class=\"wp-image-5257\" srcset=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782.jpeg 1880w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782-300x200.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782-1024x682.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782-768x512.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782-840x560.jpeg 840w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782-120x80.jpeg 120w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782-360x240.jpeg 360w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-photo-5383782-600x400.jpeg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1880px) 100vw, 1880px\" \/><figcaption>Photo by Allan Mas on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.pexels.com\/photo\/strong-man-with-rope-on-shoulder-5383782\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">Pexels.com<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"lezeni-na-obtiznost-lead\">Climbing difficulty (Lead)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Here, too, the maximum score is set at 100. There will be one path per difficulty in each round. However, the difference from past competitions is that only the last 30 moves will be scored. The last 15 catches from the top will be worth 5 points each, the next 10 catches below that will be worth 2 points and the first 5 catches counted in this way will be worth 1 point. The standard difficulty path is around 50 holds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In theory, this should balance the difference between lead and bouldering specialists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/v8ubvhdourimakxpmarq-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4725\"\/><figcaption>Bouldering<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Test Event de Paris 2024. Clasificator\u00eda Femenina Boulder\" width=\"840\" height=\"473\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/CA_ccnbZULo?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><figcaption>IFSC Barcelona 2022 Test Races - New Combination Test<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large img100\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.patreon.com\/varp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"320\" src=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Frame-106-1024x320.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4866\" srcset=\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Frame-106-1024x320.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Frame-106-300x94.jpg 300w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Frame-106-768x240.jpg 768w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Frame-106-600x187.jpg 600w, https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Frame-106.jpg 1410w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Nov\u00fd kombinovan\u00fd form\u00e1t IFSC je budoucnost z\u00e1vod\u016f IFSC. Jeho c\u00edlem je ud\u011blat kombinovan\u00fd form\u00e1t lep\u0161\u00edm a p\u0159ipravit ho na Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017e 2024. <\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":5261,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"rop_custom_images_group":[],"rop_custom_messages_group":[],"rop_publish_now":"initial","rop_publish_now_accounts":{"facebook_3757179584331251_101591145351256":""},"rop_publish_now_history":[],"rop_publish_now_status":"pending","_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[40],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4723","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-novinky"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Nov\u00fd kombinovan\u00fd form\u00e1t IFSC - sm\u011br Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017e 2024 - VARP<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nov\u00fd kombinovan\u00fd form\u00e1t IFSC je budoucnost z\u00e1vod\u016f IFSC. 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