In the list, you will only find shoes that we have actually tested and that one of us has used or is still using in the last year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Scarpa Instinct VS, La Sportiva Miura VS and OCUN Bullit share the first place. Each of these climbs is perfect in a different aspect, and therefore it is almost impossible to determine which one is the best (Honza and I would of course say ours).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ideal for: <\/strong>Sport climbing, bouldering, indoor climbing<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upper:<\/strong> Microfiber<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sole:<\/strong> Vibram XS Edge<\/a> (3.5mm)<\/p>\n\n\n\n + A multifunctional shoe that can be used for almost anything. Great foot support, harder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2013 A softer shoe would be better for the sands and some boulders<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n Instinct VS je relativn\u011b star\u0161\u00ed bota od spole\u010dnosti Scarpa<\/a>, which quickly gained popularity. It has established itself as a versatile choice for sport climbing and bouldering, but is also a frequent choice for indoor and competition climbing (climbing legend Alex Puccio lists the Scarpa Instinct VS as his go-to shoe). The firm toe and heel with a well-shaped rubber are excellent on steep rock, and the medium-stiff two-piece sole offers more power when climbing fences. Unlike most bouldering shoes, Scarpa does not lose this function. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The Scarpa boot is made of synthetic microsuede, so it stretches less than a leather boot, but thanks to the elastic band on the instep, it adapts well. The stiff feel and slight drop set it apart from most boots made for performance sport climbing and bouldering, but the thinner 3.5mm sole adds sensitivity and flexibility (note that the XS Edge rubber on the men's version is replaced by XS Grip 2 rubber on the women's model for even softer and more grippy shoe). Scarpa also offers the same design in a softer version with a 2mm sole (VSR), ideal for lighter climbers or those who prefer more feel in their feet.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n Ideal for: <\/strong> Sport climbing, multi-length climbing, bouldering<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upper:<\/strong> Skin<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sole:<\/strong> Vibram Grip2<\/a> (4mm)<\/p>\n\n\n\n + A solid shoe suitable for sport climbing. Velcro fastening. Endurance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2013 A softer shoe would be more suitable for bouldering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n It's hard not to be impressed by La Sportiva's older model, the Miura. It really speaks to the quality of La Sportiva's craftsmanship that this shoe was cutting edge ten years ago and still is today. The Miura moves at a five on edges, climbs steep terrain as well as vertical, excels in small pockets as well as any other shoe in the business. There aren't many boots that can handle 9c sport climbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The velcro Miura has become much more common than the lace-up in recent years, and for good reason. The Miura VS is a stiffer, more aggressive shoe and unlike a lace-up, it is also constructed with a P3 midsole. While the Miura Lace can turn into a slouchy, comfortable shoe in no time, the VS retains its aggressive shape for years. Still, with the leather upper, expect the Miura to stretch out a bit over time (if that worries you, check out the semi-synthetic Otaki below). Furthermore, many climbers agree that the toe is very cramped in the shoe.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Ideal for:<\/strong> Bouldering, climbing in the hall<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upper:<\/strong> Microfiber<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sole: <\/strong>CAT rubber 1.5<\/a> (4mm)<\/p>\n\n\n\n + Comfortable shoe excellent for small steps, toeing and putting<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2013 Not ideal for rocks <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Bullit are one of the high-end climbing frames of the Czech company Oc\u00fan. The workmanship of the shoe is almost perfect. Suitable for all foot types \u2013 narrow and wide \u2013 and all toe types, the Bullit really does fit just about everyone. The soft toe and good edges on the asymmetric shoe allow the climber to have great feeling in the fingers and manipulation even on the smallest weak steps (tested by Hlubo\u010depy).<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Oc\u00fan Bullit are, like the Miuras for example, Velcro shoes. This only adds to the comfort and practicality of the bouldering shoe. Its quick on and off, feel, edges and large rubberized toe and heel are bouldering surgical instruments. However, we do not recommend taking the Bullit too often for sport rock climbing. While the shoe is more than capable of tackling indoor wall and outdoor bouldering, it's not built for an extensive combination of both. Nevertheless, there are sectors (such as Pra\u017esk\u00e9 Hlubo\u010depy) where a soft bouldering shoe shines even in combination with a rope.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n In this second place, there are shoes that are perfect in their own disciplines, yet they lack something for the first places. Whether it is low versatility or lower quality materials. This position is shared by the OCUN Prearl and Scarpa Vapor V climbers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ideal for: <\/strong>Sport climbing, multi-length climbing<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upper:<\/strong> Microfiber<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sole:<\/strong> CAT rubber 1.5<\/a> (4mm)<\/p>\n\n\n\n + Comfortable shoe excellent for small steps, toeing and putting<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2013 Not suitable for rocks <\/p>\n\n\n The Oc\u00fan Pearl is one of the most popular climbing shoes in the world. Pearly, like many performance shoes from the Oc\u00fan workshop, this model also shines with its grip and ability to work on tiny steps. Lacing is provided by a lace with a quick tightening system (it gets its name), which makes the shoe a very strong and precise tool. Comfort is ensured by the padded tongue and the "twist" style of the shoe, which tightens and strengthens the foot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n These climbs, despite their awesomeness, aren't as good as the others in the S tier for a few reasons. The "twist" mechanism makes the shoe an exclusive model only for climbers with a narrow foot (wide feet will not fit in the toe). The second negative is the tip. Although the heel is rubberized and ready for putting, the toe is not. Unlike shoes like the Bullit or Instinct VS, the Pearly does not have a very rubberized toe cap, which limits its potential. The last "defect" of the shoes is the rubber itself. Although it is wonderful for climbing outside, it wears out quickly inside, which leads to the need for a resole (replacement of the sole) after about half a year to a year. However, if you get over this likely necessity (and put on Vibram XS edge shoes) you will have, like the Honz here, an amazing multi-functional shoe for both rocks and indoor walls that is comfortable, strong and able to move on the edges of the coin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Ideal for:<\/strong> Sport climbing, indoor climbing, Bouldering<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upper:<\/strong> Leather\/microfibre<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sole: <\/strong>Vibram XS Edge<\/a> (3.5mm)<\/p>\n\n\n\n + A solid shoe, ideal for precise movements<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2013 The rubber on the top of the tip (toe-hook) could be bigger<\/p>\n\n\n\n Scarpa Vapor V is one of the most famous shoes from this Italian manufacturer. After a recent redesign, the shoes have greatly changed their shape and appearance. Their stronger construction makes them almost ideal shoes for sport climbing mainly on vertical and slab walls with tiny holds. The solid tip with Vibram XS Rubber guarantees ideal grip and surprisingly good durability. Resole was needed on the shoes only after more than one year (regular load of one or two climbs per week). At the same time, this wide tip maintains high comfort.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Finally, while the Vapor V balances the conflicting priorities better than most other climbers, it doesn't transition very well between steep climbing and bouldering, although the nice rubber on the heel allows for basic putting. However, if you are looking for a shoe that can handle most disciplines and is comfortable at the same time, the Vapor V model is worth keeping in your sights.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n In section B we put shoes that we are sure are very good, but for some reason they have not yet convinced us of anything. Their performance is very often strongly focused, which is why we prefer other models. This position was occupied by OCUN Havoc, La Sportiva Otaki and OCUN Rebel QC shoes<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ideal for:<\/strong> Indoor climbing, bouldering<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upper:<\/strong> Microfiber<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sole:<\/strong> CAT rubber 1.5<\/a> (4mm)<\/p>\n\n\n\n + Excellent soft shoe for indoor climbing and competitive climbing<\/p>\n\n\n\n -Insufficient foot support during rock climbing<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Ideal for:<\/strong> Sport climbing, technical bouldering<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upper:<\/strong> Leather\/microfibre<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/my-image-2-1024x418.png\")
Our winners: <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
With tier<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Scarpa Instinct VS<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Instinct-VS-70013_01-800x800-1.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\nLa Sportvia Miura VS<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/ls_miuravswomen_blue.png\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\nOCUN Bullit<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/ocun-bullit-climbing-shoes-1024x1024.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nA tier<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
OCUN Pearl<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/d09x5j6b6q.00594-Pearl-300x200.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nScarpa Vapor V<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/scarpa-vapor-v-climbing-shoes-bf-1-1024x1024.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nB tier<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
OCUN Havoc<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/dc2zts6uv0.04577-Havoc-1.png\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nLa Sportiva Otaki<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/f18b9351e83290e45533348ffe2d054c.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/n8c2j3vzg9.02430-Rebel.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/varp.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Copy-of-IMG_1980-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n