{"id":5871,"date":"2022-09-07T08:30:00","date_gmt":"2022-09-07T06:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=5871"},"modified":"2024-03-28T13:15:56","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T11:15:56","slug":"jak-se-zlepsit-v-lezeni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/jak-se-zlepsit-v-lezeni\/","title":{"rendered":"How to get better at climbing, part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

A\u0165 si \u0159\u00edk\u00e1me co chceme, chceme se zlep\u0161ovat. V n\u00e1sledn\u00e9 s\u00e9rii t\u0159\u00ed \u010dl\u00e1nk\u016f t\u00fdkaj\u00edc\u00edch se lezeck\u00e9 techniky, cvi\u010den\u00ed a stravov\u00e1n\u00ed v\u00e1m tro\u0161ku uk\u00e1\u017eeme, jak na to. Dnes se pod\u00edv\u00e1me na t\u00e9matiku \u201clezeck\u00e1 technika\u201d, jak ji zlep\u0161it a nej\u010dast\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chyby, kter\u00e9 nov\u00ed lezci d\u011blaj\u00ed. Ve druh\u00e9m \u010dl\u00e1nku<\/a> t\u00e9to s\u00e9rie \u0159e\u0161\u00edme lezeckou s\u00edlu a cvi\u010den\u00ed pro lezce. T\u0159et\u00ed d\u00edl se bude zab\u00fdvat pl\u00e1nov\u00e1n\u00edm cvi\u010den\u00ed do cykl\u016f a odpo\u010dink\u016f, jeliko\u017e se nikdo nechceme zranit<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"cvi\u010den\u00ed
Impozantn\u00ed technika – Adam Ondra, IFSC Praha 2023<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Why is technology important?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mnoho lid\u00ed se n\u00e1s na to nept\u00e1, ale osobn\u011b se ob\u010das chyt\u00edm touto ot\u00e1zkou. Tak\u017ee pro\u010d je lezeck\u00e1 technika d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e1? Pokud m\u00e1te dost s\u00edly<\/a>, jste velc\u00ed nebo zkr\u00e1tka m\u00e1te nad\u00e1n\u00ed, za\u010d\u00e1tek va\u0161eho lezeck\u00e9ho \u017eivota se m\u016f\u017ee zd\u00e1t velice kr\u00e1sn\u00fd a lehk\u00fd. Nen\u00e1vratn\u011b v\u0161ak nastane moment, kdy mimo lezeck\u00e9 dispozice nebudou sta\u010dit a naraz\u00edme do momentu stagnace.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course, there is also a certain limit of difficulty, beyond which a climber cannot get without proper technique. It is mostly around the bouldering boundary V2 \/ V3 (5+\/6a) and the sports boundary 4c \/ 5a (V\/V+). Of course, there is nothing wrong with being happy at this limit, but if you want to be more capable in climbing, you need to deal with the technique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Climbing technique: Feet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Climbing comes from the feet. They keep us on the wall, balance and push us up. Most climbing moves come from the legs and using them properly. There are four areas of leg use that climbers of all abilities use. Toenails and their correct use, putting, knees and foot balancing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feet: Toes<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Spikes are the basis of climbing. New climbers often make the mistake of stepping on the steps with their whole foot. The goal should be to step on the steps with the toe and the edges around it. By placing the tips correctly, we can spin on the steps and move much more smoothly on the wall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exercises<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

There are two exercises you can do to improve your toe technique. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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  1. "Quiet Feet"<\/strong> \u2013 a very simple exercise that will definitely help you. The point of this exercise is to move as quietly as possible along the wall like this. This will help you better control your feet on the wall, get your feet planted correctly, and generally improve your climbing skills. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Traversing on small steps<\/strong> \u2013 this assumes the existence of a spraywall or a really good boulder sector on your climbing wall. Here, the climber traverses using all the handholds, but only the really small steps for the feet. This exercise will help you a lot in moving on small steps, rotating in the toe and distributing the weight.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    For more inspiration, watch the following video with nine more leg technique exercises. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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