{"id":6046,"date":"2022-11-15T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-11-15T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=6046"},"modified":"2024-03-28T13:14:40","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T11:14:40","slug":"strach-z-padani","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/strach-z-padani\/","title":{"rendered":"Fear of falling"},"content":{"rendered":"

Falling is an integral part of climbing life. Whether you prefer a rope or a boulder, sooner or later you will catch a fall that scares you. But every climber has to deal with that and put the fear of falling behind them. After suffering your own climbing block, we have a little manual for you on how to get rid of the fear of falling and continue further (or higher) or before.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Strach
Jan "Mrkev" Kulh\u00e1nek, Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Legitimate fear<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The fear of falling (on a rope or on a bouldering mat) is justified. We've all seen falls that didn't go well. At the same time, as humans, we have an internally coded fear of falling. So it needs to be said that if you are afraid of falling, you are not alone and there is nothing to be ashamed of. Climbing is an evolution and in time every fear will be overcome (with a little work).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How to fall properly<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Climbing falls can be really annoying. There are a few lessons that we should follow so that we don't get hurt when we fall and land really soft. They are rules for both climbers and belayers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For climbers<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Rope work<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The biggest problem during a climber's fall comes when he doesn't have a properly positioned rope. The rope MUST NOT be behind the leg or thigh. If it is, then the fall will turn you upside down, and the impact that would otherwise be absorbed by the legs is absorbed by the back and head. which does not go well. Therefore, remember where you have the rope and do not leave it around your feet. You never know when you might slip up. Outside, this rule especially applies, as hitting a stone is worse than hitting plastic (and wear a helmet!). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rebounds<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

When you feel that you cannot avoid falling, avoid jumping off the wall or rock. By catapulting yourself backwards from the wall you will also increase the energy of your fall and the harder the impact will be. We know that fear (especially the fear of falling) wants you to control the situation. But the rebound won't do it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you are in a huge overhang then yes, jump as much as you want (although it would be better not to). Elsewhere, however, try to just let go and practically "get off" the holds you're on. Gravity will do its thing and plant you comfortably in the rope. At least definitely more comfortable than when you are thrown from the wall like an arrow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For circuit breakers.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

If you're sure, you can actually make the fall more pleasant with only one thing. This is slack (the freedom of the rope). You don't want to have climbers in a tight spot. First of all, it's really bad to climb. Second, falling into a tightrope is quite unpleasant. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is much better if you have a certain amount of free rope between you and the climber. Yes, he may not like it (we all prefer toprope), but he will thank you in the end. Since you have a free rope, the climber will fall into the so-called "soft". He will not encounter a sudden jerk of the rope, but on the contrary, he will experience a slow tightening and a smooth deceleration. In this respect, it will be more pleasant for you as well. You don't have to brake a sudden impact, but maintain a gradual deceleration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance from the wall<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

You can also correct this by how far you are from the wall. The closer you are, the better. Not only will you be able to communicate better with the climber, if he falls, he won't shoot you back to the wall. No one is able to stay on their feet every time they fall. If the climber is heavier than you or falls when you least expect it, the fall will lift you off your feet and you'll go flying. God forbid you are further from the wall than the climber is high!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"VARP,
Breaking down fear - \u017dvahov<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fear of falling - 8 steps<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

There is a simple recipe for fear of falling. You have to gradually disintegrate. Whether you're after a big fall or a beginner transitioning from boulder on a rope<\/a> or starts with climbing, the recipe is the same. Follow these 8 steps and you will be able to do it step by step.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. Step \u2013 Top rope<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

We are most confident on toprope (on fish). That is why it is also the first and second step. First, climb to a comfortable height and simply fall. Get used to what it feels like to fall and gradually increase the slack and fall distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2. Top rope pendulums<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The second step is to start trying pendulum drops on the toprope (ideally not in the gym). Here you slowly get the feeling of swinging to the side, which is normal on rocks and in overhangs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3. Step - Fall on the first one<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The more advanced thing in overcoming the fear of falling is to fall on the first one (aka when you click your way). First, get to the 4th press (approx.). Click it and fall down. Gradually fall into the tight rope and gradually into more slack. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

4. Step - Fall on the first from the side<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Once you've mastered the first 3 steps, it's time to really click. Climb about halfway up the wall (4 pres) and click it from the side. Then, as expected, fall. Here you will no longer fall into a tight rope but into a slight slack.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

5. Step - to the first from the foot<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

As you manage to fall from the side, click the express and climb a little above it. You want to have express<\/a> at leg level (approx. knees to feet). The rope cannot be tightened here. We urge you to try freefalling here and start getting used to soft falls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

6. Step \u2013 to the first above the expressway<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The next step is to fall over the expressway. Often the biggest fear, as it is the biggest fall. Here, your fall will follow climbing over the expressway. Fall apart here only after you've mastered everything before. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

7. Step - Pendulums<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Just like on the top rope, there is also a threat of pendulums on the first. For this, we recommend trying to climb (and fall) in the overhangs, where you cannot avoid the pendulum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8. Step \u2013 On command<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The last step is to fall on command. In short, climb and fall (DO NOT JUMP) at the breaker's command. You have to trust him here, that's why it's better if you practice this with someone you climb with often and you know will catch you comfortably.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And it is done!<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Well, there you have it, the fear of falling is no longer a problem. Yes, it takes a while, but the result is worth it. Being able to fall well and not be afraid of falling will accelerate your climbing success and definitely increase your confidence. At the same time, however, you will become much more interested in carbines<\/a> and fuse<\/a>, because you want to know what you're getting into (at least that was the case with us). Check out our articles and then study your own carabiners. The last step is to go on rocks<\/a>. Winter is here<\/a> and send season with her!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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