{"id":6059,"date":"2022-11-18T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-11-18T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=6059"},"modified":"2024-03-12T20:42:52","modified_gmt":"2024-03-12T18:42:52","slug":"historie-lezeni-v-cechach","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/historie-lezeni-v-cechach\/","title":{"rendered":"History of climbing in Bohemia"},"content":{"rendered":"

The history of climbing is internationally very varied and goes so far into history that it is practically impossible to find out. Ascents are recorded in France as early as the end of the 15th century. Climbing here is the same in this respect. It is almost impossible to find out when it really started in our country. It is very easy to find roads from the 14th and 15th centuries here (for example in Sloup). Unfortunately, we will not focus on them today and will jump straight to Austria-Hungary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"VARP,
Divoka \u0160\u00e1rka, Prague<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Austria-Hungary<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The first organized climbing that we can trace comes from the time of Austria-Hungary. In the period of the national revival, apart from literary works and national activities, rock climbing also flourished. We can be grateful for this boom to anonymous climbers who credited ascents (often free-solo) to sandstone towers and other striking landscape landmarks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We'd probably be beaten (especially in school) if we didn't mention the connection to our climbing and greater Slavic connection. Mountain climbing was perceived across the Slavic nations of Austria-Hungary as a certain bond. If you look at the map and look at Slovenia, Slovakia, the Czech territory or the Balkans, you will see hills, rocks and mountains. At this time, mountain groups of the Slavic nation were formed and together they went to conquer these local beauties. It is not surprising then that the best climbers in the world, Ondra<\/a> and Garnbret<\/a>, comes from Bohemia and Slovenia and holds our history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first associations<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The first association we have is from 1897. It is important to note that within the history of climbing Fzde it is not possible to distinguish between Czech and Slovak associations. At that time our climbing works as one! The Czech Association was established as an offshoot of the Slovenian Plains Association (established in 1893). Here, Prof. Karel Chodounsk\u00fd organized expeditions to the Alps where ascents and building of mountain huts took place. The era of the Slovnsk\u00e9 plainn\u00e9hp team ended with the outbreak of the First World War. She (for understandable reasons) interrupted the activity of the association, which was then taken over by other groups.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, during its existence, Czech and Slovak climbers built 2 alpine huts and developed a third. Names such as prof. WISE. Karel Choudonsk\u00fd, Ji\u0159\u00ed \u010cerm\u00e1k or perhaps Viktor Lorenc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In addition to climbing and building huts, the association also published the first climbing magazine "Alpine Herald<\/a>". It also included the first Topo na Alpy, photos from the region and documents on the continuation (and completion) of the \u010cesk\u00e1 ko\u010da huts (Czech cottage under Grintavec<\/a>) and Korytnick\u00e1 ko\u010da under Magart. And yes, both cottages are standing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even our sandstones did not escape attention. The first expedition was undertaken in 1897 by N\u00e1prstek and Vrchlick\u00fd. This was followed by the founding of the Prachov Climbing Club (by local students) in 1907. These bros established 136 routes (in accordance with ethics) in Prachov and Hruboskalsk. Routes that can still be repeated today, subject to compliance with the rules and permission.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sandstone<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Climbing on sandstone has a really deep history here. The Elbe sandstones in particular were often climbed from both the German and Czech sides. This is proven by the presence of hillforts and contemporary references to ascents and roads. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Organized climbing on sandstone really started here with LKP (see above). But they didn't keep the sandpipers waiting for long. In the interwar period, the Club of Czechoslovak Alpinists became interested in them. They began to climb the sandstone towers and chimneys in an almost religious fervor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

But the Sandstones fell into a bit of disorganization. The LKP was restored after the war and the Alpinists had sandstone as a "training ground". Of course, this does not detract from their performances. But it turned out that our sandstone rocks started to be tackled by anonymous climbers who, like us, climbed the rocks of their own free will and in their free time. It was here that the sandstone climbing ethics, the use of loops and the notorious live ladders, which scared many a climber, were thoroughly honed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sandstone, France<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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\"VARP,
Second Sandstone, France<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

World War II and beyond<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately, after twenty years, the interwar activity was cut short by the Nazi regime and the war. Slovaks could, to a certain extent, keep their associations, but that was not the case with us. Between 1939 and 1945, it was a bit rough and people only went to the rocks alone. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It didn't take long, however, and associations and organizations were back. The communist regime emphasized sports and health, which increased the interest in mountain climbing. This was also helped by safer climbing, development climber<\/a>, seats<\/a> and fixed protection on rocks. Since the 1950s, sport climbing as we know it (almost) was born. The roads became more and more difficult and more and more safe. The sport did not take long and the title "Master of Sport" in the category of climbing was born. Climbing books, manuals and guide<\/a> began to be printed and expeditions set off to the Himalayas (among them the Schwarzova<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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History of climbing and the present<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

You probably all know how we are today. Rocks on every corner and the growing popularity of the sport both indoors and outdoors. But it is necessary to remember where we came from as a collective and sometimes look at who has the first ascent on the path we are currently climbing. It doesn't hurt to think quickly about the hundreds of anonymous people who got the sport to where it is now. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If there's one thing everyone can take away from this article and our climbing history, it's that we really have it, and we have it rich. There is no reason to look admiringly and longingly at France or the USA, when we have our demanding places and our seasoned fighters!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bonus at the end<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Did you know that the Czechs are behind the birth of the International Mountaineering Union? That's right (I was staring too). On the initiative of Rudolf Pil\u00e1t, the chairman of the Club of Czechoslovak Alpinists, the first international mountaineering association of the Slavic countries was established (1925). He then drafted a resolution with the aim of creating the International Mountaineering Union. It was created the same year in Chamonix, France (1932).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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