{"id":6458,"date":"2023-02-07T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-02-07T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=6458"},"modified":"2023-08-16T16:43:45","modified_gmt":"2023-08-16T14:43:45","slug":"brenta-spodni-stena","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/brenta-spodni-stena\/","title":{"rendered":"Brenta - Lower wall"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Number of trips:<\/strong> 7
Height:<\/strong> 25m (18m)
Rock:<\/strong> Buli\u017en\u00edk
Trip Type:<\/strong> Vertical \/ Overhanging
GPS:<\/strong> 50.0994268N, 14.3216307E<\/a>
public transport<\/strong>: Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka bus and tram stop, Jener\u00e1lka and School Nebu\u0161ice bus stops
Parking<\/strong>: At McDonald's, Vlastina Street, Nebu\u0161ice, Ke Skal\u00e1m Street, parking lot at Restaurant Jener\u00e1lka<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Brenta - Spodn\u00ed st\u011bna - is by all accounts a small, dominantly traditional climbing sector in Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka. It is the first of three sectors that make up the gradual ascent to the rock. The lower wall is the first of this area. You will find a total of 7 climbing lines here. Five of them are exclusively for traditional hedging. These routes end at the beginning of the second climbing sector, in the middle of the rock. Apart from these five, there is also one pure sports car and one semi-sport car. Unfortunately, the unlocked route is already difficult enough for most climbers. So it's not a sector where you can just go and crawl. We do not recommend trying to deploy a fish (top rope) in this sector. First, it's dangerous, and second, it destroys the rock. This sector is thus completely reserved for traditional climbers and seasoned athletes.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Wild S\u00e1rka; Brenta - Lower wall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Brenta - Lower wall<\/h3>\n

GPS: 50.0994268N, 14.3216307E<\/a><\/h6>\n\n \n
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Matriculation (1)<\/h5>\n
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3c<\/b> (IV)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The line runs along the left side of the rock beyond the edge, in a small notch. The climber climbs to the edge, which he follows up to a small inclined plate. After that, it goes diagonally to the right to the saddle below the "Middle Lift" sector. The perplexity here is the birch, towards which the climber turns.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 25 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1968
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Wet gutter (2)<\/h5>\n
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4c<\/b> (IN)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The second line from the left leads through a steep gully between the edge and the wall. The entrance is marked with an arrow. At the end of the chute, it turns to the right and follows the steep blocks under the "Middle Rise".\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 25 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1968
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Normal girl (3)<\/h5>\n
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2+<\/b> (III)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n Access to the line is indicated by an arrow under the overhang. The line leads along the walls to the stand, where it joins paths No. 1 and 2 and reaches the end.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 25 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1988
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Roof (4)<\/h5>\n
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5c<\/b> (VI)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The Roof path, marked by an arrow, leads around the corner under the overhang, in which the climber secures himself on a staple. It then continues over the edge to the stand and connects to the previous paths it reached.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 15 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 1 bolt + traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1968
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Old crochet hook (5)<\/h5>\n
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7b<\/b> (VIII+)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The hardest line of the sector, Star\u00e1 hakova\u010dka starts on the inclined wall below the overhang. It follows up, after three bolts over the overhang to abseil to the stand.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 18m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> 3 borh\u00e1ks + slan\u00e1k
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1994
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Kutt's Corner (6)<\/h5>\n
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5c<\/b> (VI)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The line runs along the wall to the right of the overhang, marked by an arrow. The climber climbs up the ridge to the "Middle Rise" through the blocks.\u00a0\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 20 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unknown, before 1980
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n \n

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Right of way (7)<\/h5>\n
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2<\/b> (II)<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/span>\n\n

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\n The easiest path of the sector, Pravovina, leads through the middle of the right wall to the edge. After that, the climber continues upwards and joins route No. 6, which he reaches.\n
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\n Length:<\/strong> 25 m
\n Insurance:<\/strong> traditional
\n Author:<\/strong>Unfazed
\n <\/p>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWind Gust:<\/span>\n\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t0 Km\/h\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tClouds:<\/span>\n\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t40%<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tSunrise:<\/span>\n\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t05:25<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Access<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Brenta sector \u2013 the lower wall can be reached, as is traditional in \u0160\u00e1rka \u2013 in three main ways. All options are pretty much the same, since Brenta is at a crossroads. So it just depends on where you plan to park.
Way through Divoka \u0160\u00e1rka<\/strong> leads along the asphalt road towards the U Vesel\u00edka swimming pool and the sectors in the middle of \u0160\u00e1rka. From the General<\/strong> the same asphalt road leads, only from the other side. You walk around like that Zeda<\/a> and Pants<\/a>. From Nebu\u0161ice, a winding road stretches around Prospects<\/a> and connects to the aforementioned asphalt road near the swimming pool. Brenta is hiding in the forest on the right bank of the stream, a few tens of meters from the asphalt road, between Inn D\u00edv\u010d\u00ed skok and U Vesel\u00edka swimming pool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

public transport:<\/strong>
Bus: stop Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka, School Nebu\u0161ice and Jener\u00e1lka
Tram: final station, Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Parking:
<\/strong>From Nebu\u0161ice: Street Nad \u017delivkou, Pod H\u00e1jovnou, K \u0160\u00e1rce
On Jener\u00e1leka: Street in Sk\u00e1ly, parking lot at Restaurant Jener\u00e1lka<\/a>
From Prague 6: McDonalds parking lot (best early in the morning), Nov\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka street, Vlastina<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n