{"id":7068,"date":"2023-03-28T09:59:12","date_gmt":"2023-03-28T07:59:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=7068"},"modified":"2024-03-28T13:11:24","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T11:11:24","slug":"lezeni-v-brylich","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/lezeni-v-brylich\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing in Glasses: Dioptric Combat"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dioptrick\u00e9 br\u00fdle jsou lezeck\u00e9 zlo (aspo\u0148 podle m\u011b). Bohu\u017eel, kdy\u017e u\u017e ale \u010dlov\u011bk nevid\u00ed, leze se opravdu \u0161patn\u011b. Lezen\u00ed v br\u00fdl\u00edch je proto realita pro mnoho z n\u00e1s, kte\u0159\u00ed trp\u00ed vadami zraku. Jeliko\u017e jsem jeden z t\u011bchto ne\u0161\u0165astn\u00edk\u016f, dovolte mi se tu s v\u00e1mi pobavit o lezen\u00ed v br\u00fdl\u00edch a n\u011bjak\u00e9 mal\u00e9 tipy a triky, kter\u00e9 jsem posb\u00edral ze sv\u00fdch let veden\u00ed dioptrick\u00e9ho boje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"lezen\u00ed,
Jan „J\u00e1nus“ Kulh\u00e1nek, Borov\u00e1 sk\u00e1la<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sm\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed se<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Za\u010dneme tro\u0161kou smutn\u00e9 reality. Valn\u00e1 v\u011bt\u0161ina z n\u00e1s neleze profesion\u00e1ln\u011b a nem\u00e1 tolik dioptri\u00ed na to, aby byla operace nutnost\u00ed. Proto se mus\u00edme s na\u0161\u00ed situac\u00ed sm\u00ed\u0159it. Dioptrick\u00e9 br\u00fdle tu s n\u00e1mi budou a mus\u00edme na n\u011b b\u011bhem na\u0161eho lezen\u00ed alespo\u0148 perifern\u011b myslet a postupn\u011b si na n\u011b zvykat. Toto zejm\u00e9na plat\u00ed pro nov\u00e9 lezce s dioptrick\u00fdmi br\u00fdlemi, kte\u0159\u00ed se sna\u017e\u00ed existovat a l\u00e9zt bez nich. Smi\u0159te se s realitou a za\u010dn\u011bte l\u00e9zt s nimi (a t\u00edm i l\u00e9zt l\u00e9pe). Kdy\u017e \u010dlov\u011bk vid\u00ed, l\u00e9pe se leze (a zlep\u0161uje<\/a>), l\u00e9pe se cvi\u010d\u00ed <\/a>a l\u00e9pe se \u017eije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Br\u00fdle vs. \u010co\u010dky<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dilema, kter\u00e9 trv\u00e1 u\u017e od Wichterleho, nosit \u010do\u010dky nebo br\u00fdle. Ano, ob\u011b dv\u011b maj\u00ed sv\u00e9 v\u00fdhody i nev\u00fdhody a samoz\u0159ejm\u011b i sv\u00e9 limity. Je nutn\u00e9 \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee ne ka\u017ed\u00fd kdo mus\u00ed nosit br\u00fdle, m\u016f\u017ee nosit \u010do\u010dky. Cylindry, finance nebo prost\u011b nepohodl\u00ed jsou v\u0161e d\u016fvody pro vy\u0159azen\u00ed \u010do\u010dek z na\u0161ich mo\u017enost\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pro \u010co\u010dky<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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+ <\/strong>Nespadnou u lezen\u00ed
+ <\/strong>Bezstarostn\u00e9
+ <\/strong>Purity
+ <\/strong>Levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chyby<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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– <\/strong>Dra\u017e\u0161\u00ed cena
– <\/strong>Magn\u00e9zium ve vzduchu
– <\/strong>Stejn\u011b pot\u0159ebuju br\u00fdle
– <\/strong>Operov\u00e1n\u00ed venku<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Pro a proti \u010do\u010dek. Kr\u00e1sa na nich je to, \u017ee jak je nasad\u00edte, z\u016fstanou v\u00e1m v oku dokud je zase nevynd\u00e1te. To znamen\u00e1 \u017ee u lezen\u00ed (co\u017e je \u010dasto dynamick\u00fd sport) nemus\u00edte \u0159e\u0161it to jestli v\u00e1m n\u011bco spadne na zem nebo ne, co\u017e je zejm\u00e9na \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 venku na skal\u00e1ch. Existence s nimi je velice bezstarostn\u00e1. A kdy\u017e u\u017e se s nimi n\u011bco stane, jde o levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed nahrazen\u00ed ne\u017e rozbit\u00e9 dioptrick\u00e9 br\u00fdle, zejm\u00e9na pokud vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1te mo\u017enost\u00ed jako p\u0159edplatn\u00e9 \u010do\u010dek<\/a> od Grand Optical (nebo levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed denn\u00ed \u010do\u010dky).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bohu\u017eel ale pravideln\u00e9 kupov\u00e1n\u00ed kontaktn\u00edch \u010do\u010dek se ve fin\u00e1le nast\u0159\u00e1d\u00e1 na vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed ceny, ne\u017e stoj\u00ed br\u00fdle. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 \u010do\u010dky nejsou mo\u017enost, kterou m\u016f\u017eete uplat\u0148ovat 24\/7. Zejm\u00e9na na skal\u00e1ch a v\u00edce denn\u00edch lezeck\u00fdch v\u00fdletech m\u016f\u017eou \u010do\u010dky d\u011blat probl\u00e9m. Mus\u00ed se nasazovat \u010dist\u00fdma rukama a v (alespo\u0148 tro\u0161ku) \u010dist\u00e9m prost\u0159ed\u00ed, kter\u00e9 na skal\u00e1ch ne v\u017edy b\u00fdv\u00e1. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 stejn\u011b mus\u00edme vlastnit br\u00fdle, tak pro\u010d si u\u017e nekoupit n\u011bjak\u00e9, kter\u00e9 p\u0159e\u017eij\u00ed lezen\u00ed?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pro Br\u00fdle<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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+<\/strong> Cheaper
+<\/strong> Simple
+<\/strong> Tolerance na prost\u0159ed\u00ed<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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– <\/strong>M\u016f\u017eou spadnout
– <\/strong>\u0160pin\u00ed se
– <\/strong>Po\u0161kozen\u00ed
– <\/strong>Jen jedny br\u00fdle na nos<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Br\u00fdle rozhodn\u011b maj\u00ed v\u00edce p\u0159\u00edznivc\u016f jak mezi lezci tak mezi lidmi v\u0161eobecn\u011b. Pravda je, \u017ee to s nimi je jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed. Zkr\u00e1tka si je kdekoliv nasad\u00edte a kdekoliv sund\u00e1te. Er\u00e1rn\u00ed p\u00e1r br\u00fdl\u00ed v\u00e1s nemus\u00ed ani moc moc pen\u011bz st\u00e1t, tak\u017ee se to finan\u010dn\u011b vyplat\u00ed v\u00edc, ne\u017e \u010do\u010dky. Spolu s t\u00edm se d\u00e1 koupit gumi\u010dka na br\u00fdle, abyste si opravdu pojistili, \u017ee v\u00e1m nespadnou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Z\u00e1rove\u0148 ale jen m\u00e1lo kdy vid\u00edme lezce s gumi\u010dkou na br\u00fdl\u00edch. Kdy\u017e u\u017e s nimi lezeme, v\u011bt\u0161ina z n\u00e1s prost\u011b douf\u00e1, \u017ee n\u00e1m nespadnou, co\u017e se m\u016f\u017ee samoz\u0159ejm\u011b vymst\u00edt. Br\u00fdle se \u0161pin\u00ed, zam\u00e1govan\u00fdma rukama se t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nedaj\u00ed vy\u010distit a lehce se po\u0161kr\u00e1bou (co\u017e je pak probl\u00e9m s\u00e1m o sob\u011b). A aby nebylo negativ m\u00e1lo, nem\u016f\u017eete m\u00edt dvoje br\u00fdle, tak\u017ee s nimi jen horko t\u011b\u017eko uplatn\u00edte belay-br\u00fdle. Tak nen\u00ed u\u017e jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed nosit \u010do\u010dky na lezen\u00ed a m\u00edt er\u00e1rn\u00ed br\u00fdle?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"lezen\u00ed,
Sportovky v Br\u00fdl\u00edch<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"lezen\u00ed,
Bouldering v \u010co\u010dk\u00e1ch<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

St\u0159edn\u00ed cesta?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Zlat\u00e1 st\u0159edn\u00ed cesta, jak se \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt ta nejlep\u0161\u00ed. Ob\u011b varianty \u2013 \u010do\u010dky i br\u00fdle \u2013 maj\u00ed sv\u00e9 z\u00e1sadn\u00ed klady i z\u00e1pory. Proto je fajn k cel\u00e9 v\u011bci p\u0159istupovat s rozumem a podle okolnost\u00ed. Osobn\u011b jsem roky lezl s pouze jedn\u00edm p\u00e1rem br\u00fdl\u00ed (proto\u017ee u\u017e byly dost obouchan\u00e9) a ne\u0159e\u0161il jejich vzhled nebo zdrav\u00ed. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 jsem si nikdy nekoupil slune\u010dn\u00ed dioptrick\u00e9 br\u00fdle a nosil k\u0161iltovku (jak jste si \u010dasto v\u0161imli). A to je pr\u00e1v\u011b ten h\u00e1\u010dek. Um\u011bt se p\u0159izp\u016fsobit je nutnost, kdy\u017e jde o lezen\u00ed \u201enaslepo\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Doporu\u010den\u00ed je, smi\u0159te se se situac\u00ed a najd\u011bte si, co v\u00e1m vyhovuje. Ide\u00e1ln\u00ed by bylo m\u00edt 2 p\u00e1ry br\u00fdl\u00fd. Jedny „po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9“ na denn\u00ed no\u0161en\u00ed a druh\u00e9 tro\u0161ku postradateln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed na lezen\u00ed. Takhle m\u016f\u017eete l\u00e9zt v\u0161ude a neb\u00e1t se, \u017ee p\u0159ijdete o svou o\u010dn\u00ed investici. Druh\u00e1 varianta – ta kterou d\u011bl\u00e1m j\u00e1 – je investovat do denn\u00edch \u010do\u010dek. Kdy\u017e je napl\u00e1novan\u00fd lezeck\u00fd den, vz\u00edt si denn\u00ed \u010do\u010dky, kter\u00e9 nejsou drah\u00e9 a kdykoliv je m\u016f\u017eete vyhodit (jeliko\u017e jsou na jedno pou\u017eit\u00ed). V z\u00e1loze m\u00e1m pak jedny zbit\u00e9 star\u00e9 dioptrick\u00e9 br\u00fdle, kter\u00fdm opot\u0159eben\u00ed u\u017e nevad\u00ed. Pak samoz\u0159ejm\u011b je\u0161t\u011b m\u016f\u017eete l\u00e9zt bez br\u00fdl\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hlavn\u011b si nevy\u010d\u00edtejte, \u017ee nevid\u00edte a nevi\u0148te sv\u00e9 chud\u00e1ky o\u010di nebo genetiku (i kdy\u017e „nevid\u00edm“ je dobr\u00e1 lezeck\u00e1 v\u00fdmluva). Lezen\u00ed je o pohod\u011b, p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b a v\u00fdkonech. Velk\u00e9 starosti kolem br\u00fdl\u00ed nestoj\u00ed za zka\u017een\u00fd lezeck\u00fd den nebo session. Tak\u017ee hlavn\u011b do toho v klidu a s rozumem, trp\u00edme v tom spolu!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A post shared by VARP climbing (@varp_climbing)<\/a><\/p><\/div><\/blockquote>