{"id":7582,"date":"2023-04-25T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-04-25T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=7582"},"modified":"2024-03-28T13:11:14","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T11:11:14","slug":"jak-cvicit-balanc-na-lezeni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/jak-cvicit-balanc-na-lezeni\/","title":{"rendered":"How to practice climbing balance"},"content":{"rendered":"

Climbing consists of several different skills that complement each other. Balance is one of those skills, but one that is often overlooked at the expense of finger strength or abdominal and back strength. However, the skill of balancing is still trainable, so it can be improved (just like everything else). That's why today we will look at how to practice balance, both for bouldering and rope climbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\u017dvahov,
Plate; \u017dvahov<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What is needed?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In a nutshell - nothing<\/strong>. The beautiful thing about balance training is that you don't have to do anything except climb if you don't want to. There is definitely no reason to buy expensive equipment that targets this kind of exercise. All you need is your body, a rock or a wall and the will to go through some drills.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Climbing exercise<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Balance can be practiced very well by climbing, both bouldering and rope climbing. The whole sub-discipline of slab (slab) climbing is very dependent on your ability to maintain balance and manipulate your center of gravity in various ways. The best way to improve your balance on the rope and not "practice" your balance at the same time is to climb the plates. They are ideal for that - for us Prague climbers Hlubocepy<\/a>. Especially then the left<\/a> and small stove<\/a> encourages improvement in this skill (as well as \u017dvahov<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Drills on the wall<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Wall drills are an indoor option to practice balancing. The two main drills you can do are skipping hands and climbing legs. Our sport is dependent on movement on the 4th limbs \/ on the 4th points. We are the most stable on all fours, so we always try to keep this state (one of the reasons why I don't like dynamos). Therefore, once our hand(s) are missing, climbing becomes significantly more difficult. That is why the climbing drill is done on 3 limbs<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What does it consist of? As it sounds, it chooses a boulder (or if you're brave a rope line) several levels below your maximum and you climb it without a single foothold. That is without one arm or one leg. It is important to switch sides so that you are not too dependent on one half of your body. Since this is a drill, you can repeat this as long as you enjoy it and have the strength. It is not necessary to go for sets, as with regular exercise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Specific exercises<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Of course, there is also the possibility of practicing balance in a targeted way, outside of climbing. The main method used to achieve this goal is to strengthen the core. And no, we don't just mean the abs, but also (and especially) the lower back and deep abdominal muscles. Secondary is the strengthening of the legs, especially the ankles and calves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Why these groups? The core \u2013 the center of the body \u2013 keeps us upright and is where our natural center of gravity is located. Our feet then hold us to a wall or a rock. When our support (legs) or core (core) is weak, our performance will be uneven.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stomach and back<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Board<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The plank is an often criticized exercise. But on the balance it is beautiful, thanks to the great variability it has. That's why we recommend the progression of the board according to strength and what you have available at home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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  1. Base board<\/strong>
    It's ideal if you don't have a built up power base. But the basis is good technique and gradual progress over time.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Variation with the ball<\/strong>
    This vatianta assumes you have a "yoga" ball at home. Size does not matter. If you don't have one, it's a very cheap tool from     Decathlon<\/a>. In this version, you perform the plank on a soft, unstable mat - a ball.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Variations with rubbers
    <\/strong>The variant assumes that you have training rubbers. You fasten them to one point and alternately pull them with your hands. Of course you hold the plank position for this.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    Hollow body tribute<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

    One of the best exercises for climbers. Lie on your back and raise your arms and legs above you. Then just hold on. Similar to a plank, but in reverse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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