{"id":8161,"date":"2023-06-02T12:49:16","date_gmt":"2023-06-02T10:49:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=8161"},"modified":"2023-06-02T12:49:18","modified_gmt":"2023-06-02T10:49:18","slug":"pravidla-lezeni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/pravidla-lezeni\/","title":{"rendered":"Rock climbing rules"},"content":{"rendered":"

With the growing interest in rock climbing and summer approaching, we thought it was time to revisit the rules of rock climbing. The climbing rules do not apply to sandstone, as Czech sandstone rocks have their own set of rules that differ from traditional rocks such as limestone (common in Prague). But before we get into it, we need to say where we got the information from. It will probably not be surprising to find out that it is the Czechoslovak People's Party and theirs attached pdf<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Prav\u00e1
Right plate, Hlubo\u010depsk\u00e9 plateny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

general information<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Climbing rules in Bohemia apply to all rocks except sandstone and Jizersk\u00e1. Due to their own historical development, Jizerka has its own set of rules, which we will get to over time. The rules are very clear, with the fact that "what is not forbidden is allowed". Of course, with regard to other legislation of the Czech Republic and nature protection + directives of the individual protected areas where the rocks are located.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Last but not least, climbing means climbing on a rope. Unfortunately, bouldering is not yet codified or treated under permits, rules or prohibitions or orders. Therefore, we ask boulderers to be especially careful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Protection of the nature<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nature protection is the basis of all climbing permits. Compliance with this part of the regulation is therefore indisputable. As climbers we are obliged to:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. Pay attention to cleanliness and order<\/strong> and to behave in a way that does not harm nature - the idea of everything from grass to rocks and trees.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2. Use for climbing, access and descent marked paths only<\/strong>. What does it mean? Climb where you find a sign indicating the climbing sector (painted triangles) or stick to the CHS database. Lezec.cz is not ideal for this, as anyone can add anything there. So, if you are wondering if climbing is allowed somewhere, look at the \u010cHS. If you are wondering how to get to the sector non-invasively, we recommend looking at Mapy.cz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3. Follow the signs<\/strong> forest managers, conservationists, land owners, etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The following things are expressly prohibited:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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  1. How to change the surface of the rocks<\/strong>. That is no adjustment of holds or steps to make climbing easier. Practice Styles'Just do it<\/a>\u201d are therefore not tolerated \u2013 not that anyone would mind.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Use winter climbing equipment \u2013 logical.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Damage the rock surface<\/strong> when handling the rope. In practice, this means trying to limit excessive top-roping (climbing "on a fish") and other practices where the rope rubs the rock unnecessarily.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  4. Supply new safeguards<\/strong> to ready and approved routes. An exception to this can be granted by the Supreme Commission of the Czech Republic. So if you know that the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced, inform the Commission, don't do anything on your own.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    Fixed hedging<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Fixed secured - i.e. bolts, nuts and rivets - are the key for athletes. Here, the method and placement of fixed points is the responsibility of the person who placed them. For those of us who do not drill roads, two main things apply:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    1. Fixed belay checks are on all climbers<\/strong>! During climbing, only those points are used that correspond to the standard and methodology of the Czechoslovak National Association, determined by the opinion of the climber. If you find a point that fundamentally does not correspond, you are obliged to report it to the Summit Committee of the Association or the administrator of the rock area. Contacts for both are on the portal of the Czech Mountaineering Association.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    2. It is necessary to treat fixed safeguards with care. Ideally, during the top-rope belay, secure yourself via two carabiners and do not pull the rope through the rope. When you finish on the route, it is then necessary to remove the carabiners and abseil from the route. This will prevent excessive damage to the end points of belaying on the rocks.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

      New paths<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

      This part applies more to boulderers and very active athletes. And even though it may seem that it doesn't concern you, believe me that climbing is an interesting sport and one day we will each say the one fateful phrase "there is nothing there, but it would be possible".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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      1. Golden rule: the path is created by the first climb<\/strong>! Unfortunately, drilling or dreaming your way does not count. Projects must be reported to the local Summit Committee within 30 days from the moment work begins on the road. After reporting, you are entitled to a "closed project" for 1 YEAR. Then the way opens to all. When it is a rope route, it is marked with a loop with long ends at the first belay point. When it comes to bouldering, there is no established option. The best option we can offer (as far as Prague is concerned) is to write to us at IG<\/a>, Facebook<\/a> or ideally through "+ New path" and we will add it to you TOPOs<\/a> as a closed project.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      2. Variants and new routes MUST NOT change the difficulty or safety of existing routes - we probably don't need to say the reasons for this.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      3. After creating a new variant or route, the authors must send a proposal for evaluation, the name of the route and the names of the authors of the CZS within 4 weeks of the first release (please do this, so that TOPO can be done better :D)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      4. Last but not least, if these conditions (and a few others for the authors of the trips) are not observed, the Commission can decide to cancel the trip and remove the fixed security points.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

        Supervision of compliance with the rules<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

        The best for the end. How is compliance with all these rules monitored? It's up to us as a climbing community. When we see something that violates the rules - judged by our own morality - it is our duty to report it to the area administrator or the Supreme Commission. After all, climbing is closely linked to community. That is why she also follows the rules.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Central High Commission<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
        Weisser Pavel<\/strong><\/td>chairman of CVK<\/strong><\/td>pavel.weisser@horosvaz.cz<\/a><\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
        Pletich Jan<\/strong><\/td>vice-chairman of CVK<\/strong><\/td>jenik.pleticha@email.cz<\/a><\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
        Abbot Luk\u00e1\u0161<\/td>OVK Jesen\u00edky and Rychlebsk\u00e9 mountains<\/td>peak@seznam.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Stanislav Barto\u0161ek<\/td>OVK North Moravia<\/td>s.bartosek@seznam.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Otto's brickyard <\/td>OVK Dubsk\u00e1 sk\u00e1ly<\/td>otto.cihelna@post.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Newbie Karel<\/td>OVK Broumovsko<\/td>ovkbroumovsko@gmail.com<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Jesensk\u00fd Jan<\/td>OVK South Bohemia<\/td>jan.jesensky@uzsvm.cz<\/a> <\/td><\/tr>
        Meier Radek<\/td>OVK Hruboskalsko<\/td>meierradek@atlas.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Kilian Ondrej<\/td>OVK Vyso\u010dina<\/td>vk.vysocina@email.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Pletich Jan<\/td>OVK Labsk\u00e9 p\u00edskovce<\/td>jenik.pleticha@email.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Seagull Tomas<\/td>OVK East Bohemia<\/td>tomas.racek@adr-rock.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        \u010cuba Jan<\/td>OVK Tis\u00e1<\/td>jan.cuba@volny.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Janata Petr<\/td>OVK West Bohemia<\/td>petr.janata@volny.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Dry sausage Pavel<\/td>OVK Northwest Bohemia<\/td>parekteam@seznam.cz<\/a> <\/td><\/tr>
        Skypala Vladimir<\/td>OVK Moravsk\u00e9 p\u00edskovce<\/td>skypala@abidesign.cz<\/a> <\/td><\/tr>
        Tu\u010dka Martin<\/td>OVK Prague and Central Bohemia<\/td>martan.kladno@seznam.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Vlach Tomas<\/td>OVK Prachov<\/td>vlach.tomas@email.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Peter Waller<\/td>OVK rocks on Mu\u017esk\u00e9<\/td>wallerpetr@seznam.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Weisser Pavel<\/td>OVK South Moravia<\/td>pawelw@volny.cz<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
        Nutritious Roman <\/td>OVK Lusatia and Jizera Mountains<\/td>ovk.jlh@gmail.com<\/td><\/tr>
        Comforter Vladimir<\/td>material, technology, training<\/td>vladimir.tesitel@gmail.com<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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        A post shared by VARP climbing (@varp_climbing)<\/a><\/p><\/div><\/blockquote>