{"id":8656,"date":"2024-01-30T07:20:10","date_gmt":"2024-01-30T05:20:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=8656"},"modified":"2024-08-01T10:31:24","modified_gmt":"2024-08-01T08:31:24","slug":"kvalifikace-na-ol-2024","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/kvalifikace-na-ol-2024\/","title":{"rendered":"Lezeck\u00e1 kvalifikace na Olympijsk\u00e9 hry – Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017e 2024"},"content":{"rendered":"

Olympijsk\u00e9 hry jsou za rohem a kvalifikace <\/a>na Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017e 2024 u\u017e za\u010dala. V Bernu se za\u010d\u00e1tkem srpna odehr\u00e1lo prvn\u00ed kolo kvalifika\u010dn\u00edho boje o m\u00edsta na OL 2024 podle nov\u00e9ho form\u00e1tu. Jak se na Hry lezci a lezkyn\u011b kvalifikuj\u00ed, kdy budou dal\u0161\u00ed kvalifika\u010dn\u00ed z\u00e1vody a kolik jich pojede do Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017ee zjist\u00edte tu. Kvalifikace na Olympijsk\u00e9 hry bude toti\u017e trvat a\u017e do \u010dervna 2024.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Tomoa
Tomoa Narasaki, IFSC Praha<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nov\u00fd kombinovan\u00fd form\u00e1t<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Prvn\u00ed rozd\u00edl mezi Hrami 2020 a 2024 je nov\u00fd form\u00e1t pro sportovn\u00ed lezen\u00ed. U\u017e zde nefiguruje lezen\u00ed na rychlost spolu s obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed a boulderingem (d\u00edky bohu). Nyn\u00ed jsou dva sety medail\u00ed. Jedna pro kombinaci <\/a>obt\u00ed\u017enosti a boulderingu a druh\u00e1 pro lezen\u00ed na rychlost<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Co to znamen\u00e1 v praxi? \u017de u\u017e neuvid\u00edme rychlostn\u00ed lezce jako Bass Maw<\/a> marn\u011b se sna\u017eit o bouldering a dostat se do fin\u00e1le pouze d\u00edky excelenci v jedn\u00e9 t\u0159etin\u011b discipl\u00edn. Kvalifikace na Olympijsk\u00e9 hry maj\u00ed z\u00e1vodn\u00edci nyn\u00ed odd\u011blen\u00e9. Rychlostn\u00ed lezci se kvalifikuj\u00ed v z\u00e1vodech na rychlost a kombinace pak ve sv\u00fdch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00edmto momentem tedy p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1me mluvit o rychlostn\u00edm lezen\u00ed. Zbytek \u010dl\u00e1nku se t\u00fdk\u00e1 pouze kombinace boulderingu a lezen\u00ed na obt\u00ed\u017enost.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kolik je m\u00edst?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Celkem je pro sportovn\u00ed lezen\u00ed vyhrazeno 20 m\u00edst pro mu\u017ee a 20 m\u00edst pro \u017eeny – celkem tedy 40. 2 M\u00edsta jsou rezervovan\u00e1 pro Francouzsk\u00e9 atlety a 2 dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsta pro n\u011bco \u010demu se \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 \u201cUniversality places\u201d (vysv\u011btleno d\u00e1le). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

V ka\u017ed\u00e9m z\u00e1vod\u011b m\u016f\u017eou b\u00fdt kvalifikov\u00e1ni maxim\u00e1ln\u011b 4 lezci ka\u017ed\u00e9ho pohlav\u00ed. Z\u00edsk\u00e1vaj\u00ed se ve t\u0159ech vln\u00e1ch. Prvn\u00ed z nich je u\u017e za n\u00e1mi – Bern.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak prob\u00edh\u00e1 kvalifikace na Olympijsk\u00e9 hry<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Proces kvalifikace na Olympijsk\u00e9 hry je jin\u00fd, ne\u017e byl minule. Tentokr\u00e1t jde o s\u010d\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed sk\u00f3re z\u00edskan\u00e9ho z boulderingu a z lezen\u00ed na obt\u00ed\u017enost do jednoho. Lezec s nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm \u010d\u00edslem vyhr\u00e1l. Jde o n\u011bco v\u00edc p\u0159\u00edmo\u010dar\u00fd syst\u00e9m, kter\u00fd st\u00e1le umo\u017e\u0148uje v\u00edc „overall“ lezc\u016fm porazit dominanty ve sv\u00e9m oboru. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kvalifika\u010dn\u00ed vlny<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Na OL. se kvalifikuje ve t\u0159ech etap\u00e1ch, \u010di vln\u00e1ch. Prvn\u00edm byl \u0161ampion\u00e1t v Bernu, kde se kvalifikovalo celkem 6 lid\u00ed. Druh\u00fdm jsou kontinent\u00e1ln\u00ed mistrovstv\u00ed, kter\u00e1 maj\u00ed celkem 10 voln\u00fdch pozic. Dv\u011b pro ka\u017ed\u00fd kontinent. Posledn\u00ed zp\u016fsob jak se dostat na Hry je skrz \u201cOlympic Qualifiers Series<\/a>\u201d, na kterou je alokov\u00e1no 20 m\u00edst. Celkem se tak z\u00e1vodn\u00edci uch\u00e1z\u00ed o 36 voln\u00fdch m\u00edst.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lezeck\u00fd \u0161ampion\u00e1t – Bern (CHE) – 08.2023<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Na srpnov\u00e9m \u0161ampion\u00e1tu v Bernu <\/a>se kvalifikovalo celkem 6 lezc\u016f a lezky\u0148. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Jakob Schubert<\/a><\/td>Rakousko<\/td>183<\/td><\/tr>
Collin Duffy<\/a><\/td>USA<\/td>160<\/td><\/tr>
Tomoe Narasaki<\/a><\/td>Japan<\/td>156<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00ed mu\u017ei<\/sub><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/td>St\u00e1t<\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/td><\/tr>
Janja Garnbret<\/a><\/td>Slovenia<\/td>177<\/td><\/tr>
Jessica Pilz<\/a><\/td>Rakousko<\/td>157<\/td><\/tr>
Ai Mori<\/a><\/td>Japan<\/td>140<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00e9 \u017eeny<\/sub><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Americk\u00e1 kvalifikace – Santiago (CHL) – 21.-24.10.2023<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Jesse Grupper<\/a><\/td>USA<\/td>191<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00ed mu\u017ei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Natalia Grossman<\/a><\/td>USA<\/td>176<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00e9 \u017eeny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Evropsk\u00e1 kvalifikace –  Laval (FRA), 27.-29.10.2023<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Toby Roberts<\/a><\/td>Velk\u00e1 Brit\u00e1nie<\/td>169,8<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00ed mu\u017ei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Orian Bertone<\/a><\/td>France<\/td>171,9<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00e9 \u017eeny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Asijsk\u00e1 kvalifikace – Jakarta (INA), 9.-12.11.2023<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Anraku Soratu<\/a><\/td>Japan<\/td>199,7<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00ed mu\u017ei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Zhang Yuetong<\/a><\/td>\u010c\u00edna<\/td>142,3<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00e9 \u017eeny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Africk\u00e1 kvalifikace – Pretoria (JAR), 7.-9.12.2023<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Mel Janse Van Rensburg<\/a><\/td>JAR<\/td>168,9<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00ed mu\u017ei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Lauren Mukheibir<\/a><\/td>JAR<\/td>109.0<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00e9 \u017eeny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Oce\u00e1nsk\u00e1 kvalifikace – Melbourne (AUS), 24.-25.11.2023<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Campbell Harrison<\/a><\/td>Austr\u00e1lie<\/td>154,1<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00ed mu\u017ei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>Sk\u00f3re<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Oceana Mackenzie<\/a><\/td>Austr\u00e1lie<\/td>199,1<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00e9 \u017eeny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Universality places<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Tak tedy co jsou Universality places<\/a> a pro\u010d jsou d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e1? Jde o m\u00edsta, kter\u00e1 jsou rezervov\u00e1na pro st\u00e1ty, kter\u00e9 se norm\u00e1ln\u011b nedostanou na mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta nebo kvalifika\u010dn\u00ed ud\u00e1losti, ale p\u0159esto se v nich m\u016f\u017ee skr\u00fdvat obrovsk\u00fd talent. Tato m\u00edsta umo\u017e\u0148uj\u00ed lezc\u016fm z m\u00e9n\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00fdch st\u00e1tu se p\u0159edv\u00e9st na OL. Letos je mo\u017en\u00e9, \u017ee se na Hry skrz takov\u00e9to m\u00edsto dostane nap\u0159\u00edklad Rishat Khaibullin<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Olympic Qualifiers Series<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jde o dva z\u00e1vody, na kter\u00fdch se budou kvalifikovat „urban“ sporty, ze kter\u00fdch je pro n\u00e1s d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 pouze lezen\u00ed. Kvalifikuje se zde 20 lezc\u016f (10 mu\u017e\u016f a 10 \u017een). P\u016fjde o dva z\u00e1vody, odehr\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed v \u0160anghaji (16-19.5) a v Budape\u0161ti (20-23.6). Na Hry se kvalifikuje top 10 s nejv\u00edce body od ka\u017ed\u00e9ho pohlav\u00ed. Celkov\u00fd po\u010det mo\u017en\u00fdch bod\u016f je 100. 50 ze \u0160anghaje a 50 z Budape\u0161ti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kone\u010dn\u00e9 sk\u00f3re<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>CHN\/HUN<\/strong><\/td>Body<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Lee Dohyun<\/a><\/td>KOR<\/td>50\/45<\/td>95<\/td><\/tr>
Sam Avezou<\/a><\/td>FRA<\/td>33\/50<\/td>83<\/td><\/tr>
Adam Ondra<\/a><\/td>CZ<\/td>41\/41<\/td>82<\/td><\/tr>
Alberto G. L\u00f3pez<\/a><\/td>ESP<\/td>45\/36<\/td>81<\/td><\/tr>
Hannes V. Duysen<\/td>BEL<\/td>35\/38<\/td>73<\/td><\/tr>
Paul Jenft<\/td>FRA<\/td>38\/32<\/td>70<\/td><\/tr>
Yannick Floh\u00e9<\/a><\/td>GER<\/td>32\/33<\/td>65<\/td><\/tr>
Hamish McArthur<\/td>GBR<\/td>34\/31<\/td>65<\/td><\/tr>
Sasha Lehmann<\/td>SUI<\/td>36\/28<\/td>64<\/td><\/tr>
Alex Megos<\/a><\/td>DEU<\/td>29\/34<\/td>63<\/td><\/tr>
Luca Potocar<\/td>SLO<\/td>26\/29<\/td>55<\/td><\/tr>
Yufei Pan<\/a><\/td>CHN<\/td>28\/24<\/td>52<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00ed mu\u017ei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
Jm\u00e9no<\/strong><\/td>St\u00e1t<\/strong><\/td>CHN\/HUN<\/strong><\/td>Body<\/strong><\/td><\/td><\/tr>
<\/a>By Brooke Rabout<\/a><\/td>USA<\/td>50\/50<\/td>100<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Miho Nonaka<\/a><\/td>JPN<\/td>38\/45<\/td>83<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Erin McNeice<\/td>GBR<\/td>41\/41<\/td>82<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Seo Chae-hyun<\/a><\/td>KOR<\/td>45\/36<\/td>81<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Zhilu Luo<\/td>CHN<\/td>34\/38<\/td>72<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Ievgenia Kazbekova<\/a><\/td>UKR<\/td>35\/33<\/td>68<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Mia Krampl<\/a><\/td>SLO<\/td>29\/34<\/td>63<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Lucia Dorffel<\/td>DEU<\/td>31\/32<\/td>63<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Z\u00e9lia Avezou<\/a><\/td>FRA<\/td>33\/29<\/td>62<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Camilla Moroni<\/td>ITA<\/td>32\/28<\/td>60<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Laura Rogora<\/a><\/td>ITA<\/td>24\/35<\/td>59<\/td><\/td><\/tr>
Molly Thompson-Smith<\/a><\/td>GBR<\/td>28\/30<\/td>58<\/td><\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
Kvalifikovan\u00e9 \u017eeny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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