{"id":8954,"date":"2023-09-08T18:04:50","date_gmt":"2023-09-08T16:04:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=8954"},"modified":"2023-12-11T15:16:53","modified_gmt":"2023-12-11T13:16:53","slug":"prevod-lezeckych-obtiznosti-sport-vs-boulder","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/prevod-lezeckych-obtiznosti-sport-vs-boulder\/","title":{"rendered":"P\u0159evod lezeck\u00fdch obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed: Sport vs. Boulder"},"content":{"rendered":"

P\u0159evody lezeck\u00fdch obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed<\/a> jsou velice subjektivn\u00ed. P\u0159esto se o to ale jako lezci sna\u017e\u00edme. Mezi jednotliv\u00fdmi \u0161k\u00e1lami to jde relativn\u011b lehce, za p\u0159edpokladu \u017ee jsou ve stejn\u00e9m stylu. Co kdy\u017e se ale sna\u017e\u00edme p\u0159ev\u00e9st tradovou cestu na highball nebo naopak? Tomu se dnes budeme v\u011bnovat. P\u0159evod\u016fm lezeck\u00fdch obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed mezi lezeck\u00fdmi discipl\u00ednami.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"P\u0159evod
Highball Klepec, boulder i „trad“ na jednom kameni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jde to v\u016fbec?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Asi si \u0159\u00edk\u00e1te, \u017ee p\u0159ev\u00e1d\u011bt bouldery <\/a>na sportovky <\/a>(a naopak) je p\u0159eci blbost a nen\u00ed nutn\u00e9 to d\u011blat. Jsou to dv\u011b odli\u0161n\u00e9 discipl\u00edny a porovn\u00e1vat je by bylo stejn\u00e9, jako porovn\u00e1vat sprint a marathon. Tak\u017ee ot\u00e1zka\u2026jde to? No…Ano i ne. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes<\/strong>, P\u0159ev\u00e9st obt\u00ed\u017enost z boulderu (a\u0165 je to Hueco nebo Font) na Francouzskou nebo UIAA tabulku jde, ale jen od oka. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 ale No<\/strong>, p\u0159ev\u00e1d\u011bt se takhle plo\u0161n\u011b ned\u00e1. P\u0159ev\u00e9st se daj\u00ed pouze bouldery, kter\u00e9 jsou lezen\u00e9 jako highball <\/a>nebo maj\u00ed hodn\u011b krok\u016f (20+).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00e1 to cenu d\u011blat?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b je to v\u011bc osobn\u00edho p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010den\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00e9ho lezce. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed jsou toho n\u00e1zoru, \u017ee bouldering k lezen\u00ed nepat\u0159\u00ed a nezahrnuj\u00ed ho do pr\u016fvodc\u016f a sektor\u016f. Jin\u00ed zase d\u0159\u00edve vylezli cestu, kter\u00e9 dali UIAA nebo French grade a nev\u011bd\u011bli, \u017ee za 20 let doraz\u00ed siln\u00ed boulderist\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed cestu vylezou jako highball. Odpov\u011b\u010f na to, tedy aspo\u0148 za n\u00e1s je: ano, cenu to m\u00e1, ale s rozumem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak jsme psali v\u00fd\u0161e, nejde p\u0159ev\u00e9st kr\u00e1tk\u00fd boulder (a\u0165 je sebe t\u011b\u017ek\u00fd) na lanovou \u0161k\u00e1lu. Jedno je dynamick\u00e9 a technick\u00e9, druh\u00e9 vytrvalostn\u00ed a \u010dasto mor\u00e1lov\u00e9. Zkr\u00e1tka jablka a hru\u0161ky. Kdy\u017e ale naraz\u00edte na sektor, jako jsou pra\u017esk\u00e9 Baskets <\/a>nebo st\u0159edo\u010desk\u00fd Klepec (kter\u00fd jsme p\u0159evedli) je fajn si moct obt\u00ed\u017enosti p\u0159ev\u00e9st a m\u00edt z tradu boulder (pokud na to m\u00e1te).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u0159evodov\u00e1 tabulka<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

F\u00e9rov\u00e9 upozorn\u011bn\u00ed, tato tabulka nen\u00ed z na\u0161\u00ed hlavy, ale je kombinac\u00ed n\u011bkolika tabulek kter\u00e9 jsme na\u0161li online. Budeme tu \u0159e\u0161it jen p\u0159evod lezeck\u00fdch obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed z boulderingov\u00fdch \u0161k\u00e1l na sportovk\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9. Pokud v\u00e1s zaj\u00edmaj\u00ed jin\u00e9, bohu\u017eel zde neposlou\u017e\u00edme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

French sport<\/strong><\/td>Font<\/strong> (French boulder)<\/td><\/tr>
5c<\/td>4-<\/td><\/tr>
6a\/+<\/td>4<\/td><\/tr>
6a+\/b<\/td>4+<\/td><\/tr>
6b\/+<\/td>5<\/td><\/tr>
6c<\/td>5+<\/td><\/tr>
6c+<\/td>6A<\/td><\/tr>
7a<\/td>6A+<\/td><\/tr>
7a\/+<\/td>6B<\/td><\/tr>
7a+<\/td>6B+<\/td><\/tr>
7a+\/b<\/td>6C<\/td><\/tr>
7b<\/td>6C+<\/td><\/tr>
7b+<\/td>7A<\/td><\/tr>
7b+\/c<\/td>7A+<\/td><\/tr>
7c\/+<\/td>7B<\/td><\/tr>
7c+\/8a<\/td>7B+<\/td><\/tr>
8a\/+<\/td>7C<\/td><\/tr>
8b<\/td>7C+<\/td><\/tr>
8b+<\/td>8A<\/td><\/tr>
8c<\/td>8A+<\/td><\/tr>
8c+<\/td>8B<\/td><\/tr>
9a<\/td>8B+<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>
P\u0159evod lezeck\u00fdch obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vysv\u011btlen\u00ed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Tabulka vypad\u00e1, tak jak vypad\u00e1, z n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edch d\u016fvod\u016f. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 na 4- \/ 5c, jeliko\u017e jde o obt\u00ed\u017enost, kterou vyleze ka\u017ed\u00fd kdo p\u00e1rkr\u00e1t lezl a pr\u00e1v\u011b kolem t\u00e9to obt\u00ed\u017enosti se mot\u00e1 v\u011bt\u0161ina „highball my\u0161lenek“. Kon\u010d\u00ed u obt\u00ed\u017enosti 8B+ \/ 9a, proto\u017ee existuje kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 cesta, kter\u00e1 rozhodnut\u00ed usnadnila. Je j\u00ed Wheel of life<\/a>, kter\u00e1 m\u00e1 z\u00e1pisy v obou lezeck\u00fdch stylech (nap\u0159 od Wooda nebo Megose) a je hodnocena pr\u00e1v\u011b jako 8B+ \/ 9a.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Obt\u00ed\u017enosti jsme nenapasovali p\u0159esn\u011b, ale dost nahrubo za pomoc\u00ed internetu a zku\u0161enost\u00ed na\u0161ich a lid\u00ed okolo n\u00e1s. Nejde tedy o lezeckou bibli, ale sp\u00ed\u0161e o pom\u016fcku, kterou pou\u017e\u00edt kdy\u017e potk\u00e1te cestu a \u0159\u00edk\u00e1te si, \u017ee by \u0161la vyl\u00e9zt na boulder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zkr\u00e1tka to neberte doslova, ob\u010das to zkoukn\u011bte a dejte n\u00e1m v\u011bd\u011bt, pokud mysl\u00edte, \u017ee to n\u011bjak drasticky nesed\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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