{"id":9131,"date":"2023-10-13T15:47:30","date_gmt":"2023-10-13T13:47:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=9131"},"modified":"2023-12-11T15:12:59","modified_gmt":"2023-12-11T13:12:59","slug":"posilovani-prstu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/posilovani-prstu\/","title":{"rendered":"Posilov\u00e1n\u00ed prst\u016f (Nejen hangboarding)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Prsty, s\u00edla prst\u016f a posilov\u00e1n\u00ed prst\u016f<\/a> jsou \u010dast\u00e1 t\u00e9mata mezi lezci. Bohu\u017eel stejn\u011b \u010dast\u00e1 t\u00e9mata jsou zran\u011bn\u00ed prst\u016f<\/a>, natr\u017een\u00e1 poutka a pochrouman\u00e9 vazy. V dne\u0161n\u00edm \u010dl\u00e1nku se pod\u00edv\u00e1me na posilov\u00e1n\u00ed prst\u016f a na to kdy to d\u011blat, co d\u011blat, jak to d\u011blat a hlavn\u011b jak se u toho nezranit. Co tu nenajdete je konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed pl\u00e1n na posilov\u00e1n\u00ed prst\u016f (proto\u017ee nejsme tren\u00e9\u0159i). Pokud hled\u00e1te konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed pl\u00e1n doporu\u010dujeme jednu z v\u00fdborn\u00fdch lezeck\u00fdch aplikac\u00ed<\/a> (jako crimpd nebo passion) nebo si zaplatit pokro\u010dilej\u0161\u00ed kurz<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hangboard,
2Climb Hangboard, Divok\u00e1 \u0160\u00e1rka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed a p\u0159\u00edprava<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Prvn\u00ed v\u011bc, kter\u00e1 se mus\u00ed ud\u011blat, je po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b se proh\u0159\u00e1t a p\u0159ipravit t\u011blo na aktivitu. To plat\u00ed jak pro cvi\u010den\u00ed, tak pro lezen\u00ed. U posilov\u00e1n\u00ed prst\u016f to ale plat\u00ed dvojn\u00e1sob. Je to proto\u017ee kdy\u017e cvi\u010d\u00edme prsty, pracujeme na \u0161lach\u00e1ch a vazech. Ty jsou mnohem n\u00e1chyln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed na zran\u011bn\u00ed a pomaleji se hoj\u00ed, ne\u017e svaly. D\u016fkladn\u00e9 proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed<\/strong> cel\u00e9ho t\u011bla (yoga, \u0161vihadlo) a zah\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed prst\u016f (lehk\u00e9 visy) je nutnost!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00dachopy<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nen\u00ed prst\u016f, bez \u00fachop\u016f. V\u0161ichni asi zn\u00e1me full crimp<\/a>, half-crimp a open crimp (\u010desky pln\u00e1, polovi\u010dn\u00ed a otev\u0159en\u00e1 li\u0161ta). \u010casto ale zapom\u00edn\u00e1me na kapsy, stisky a obliny. Ka\u017ed\u00fd \u00fachop se chyt\u00e1 jinak a jinak vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 svaly p\u0159edlokt\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Co je tu ale d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 je to, \u017ee prsty cvi\u010d\u00edme v\u011bt\u0161inou na li\u0161t\u00e1ch. U toho pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me bu\u010fto half-crimp nebo open crimp. P\u0159i cvi\u010den\u00ed nikdy li\u0161tu nezamyk\u00e1me. Je to \u00fachop nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed na \u0161lachy a nejv\u00edce spojen\u00fd se zran\u011bn\u00edmi. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Druhy cvi\u010den\u00ed prst\u016f<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Je hodn\u011b zp\u016fsob\u016f, jak cvi\u010dit prsty. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 plat\u00ed, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00fd zp\u016fsob pracuje na n\u011b\u010dem tro\u0161ku jin\u00e9m a hod\u00ed se na n\u011bco jin\u00e9ho. To je d\u00e1no r\u016fzn\u00fdmi \u00fachopy, zapojen\u00edm okoln\u00edch sval\u016f a pot\u0159ebami ka\u017ed\u00e9ho lezce. 4 hlavn\u00ed zp\u016fsoby jsou ale: zved\u00e1n\u00ed, hangboarding, campusing a lezen\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zved\u00e1n\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ne, nemysl\u00edme tu posilovnu ale zved\u00e1n\u00ed z\u00e1va\u017e\u00ed prsty (by\u0165 posilovna <\/a>v lezen\u00ed hraje svou roli). Tady jde o zved\u00e1n\u00ed z\u00e1va\u017e\u00ed jen skrz prsty. Jde o izolaci \u0161lach a sval\u016f, kter\u00e9 se pod\u00edlej\u00ed na s\u00edle prst\u016f.
Pot\u0159eba:<\/strong> Z\u00e1va\u017e\u00ed, hangboard, n\u011bco na upevn\u011bn\u00ed
Pro:<\/strong> Izolace, p\u0159esnost, kontrola
Proti:<\/strong> Izolac<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak na to:<\/strong> Zved\u00e1n\u00ed je velice jednoduch\u00e9. Sta\u010d\u00ed v\u00e1m m\u00edt z\u00e1va\u017e\u00ed, kter\u00e9 zvednete a budete dr\u017eet pouze na prstech. Nejlep\u0161\u00ed na to jsou kotou\u010de z posilovny. Jde tak\u00e9 p\u0159id\u011blat z\u00e1va\u017e\u00ed na hangboard a zvedat skrz ten. Velice dob\u0159e se t\u00edmto zp\u016fsobem posiluj\u00ed jednotliv\u00e9 prsty!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hangboarding<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

To co nejv\u00edc z n\u00e1s d\u011bl\u00e1 je hangboarding. Pasivn\u00ed nebo aktivn\u00ed visi na mal\u00fdch li\u0161t\u00e1ch jsou obl\u00edbenou metodou posilov\u00e1n\u00ed prst\u016f a jeliko\u017e ka\u017ed\u00e1 st\u011bna m\u00e1 hangboard, je to i velice dostupn\u00e9.
Pot\u0159eba:<\/strong> Hangboard
Pro:<\/strong> C\u00edlen\u00ed na \u00fachyty, prakti\u010dnost
Proti:<\/strong> Izolace<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak na to: <\/strong>Hangboarding je velice jednoduch\u00fd. Jde o zav\u011b\u0161en\u00ed se do mal\u00e9 li\u0161ty a ve visu pos\u00edlen\u00ed konkr\u00e9tn\u00edho \u00fachopu. V\u011bt\u0161inou otev\u0159en\u00e9 li\u0161ty. Podle druhy hangboardu jde ale cvi\u010dit i stisk, t\u0159en\u00ed nebo kapsa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Campusing<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Campusing je n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1 a vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed aktivita, kter\u00e1 mnoho z n\u00e1s d\u011bs\u00ed. P\u0159esto je ale nejspecifi\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed na prsty, kter\u00e9 m\u016f\u017eeme d\u011blat (mimo lezen\u00ed).
Pot\u0159eba:<\/strong> Campus (logicky)
Pro:<\/strong> kontaktn\u00ed s\u00edla, v\u00fdbu\u0161nost
Proti:<\/strong> \u0161patn\u011b se m\u011b\u0159\u00ed, riskuje se zran\u011bn\u00ed<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak na to:<\/strong> Chce to kampus a jet konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed campus cvi\u010debn\u00ed protokoly (kruhy). D\u00e1 se tu m\u011bnit chyt, kter\u00fd se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1, podle dostupn\u00e9ho campusu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lezen\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Tady asi nen\u00ed moc co dodat. Aktivn\u00edm lezen\u00edm se zapoj\u00ed jak prsty v konkr\u00e9tn\u00edch \u00fachopech, tak cel\u00fd svalov\u00fd \u0159et\u011bzec. Je to nejkomplexn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed metoda posilov\u00e1n\u00ed prst\u016f, ale nen\u00ed nijak p\u0159\u00edm\u00e1 nebo dob\u0159e m\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hlavn\u00ed pravidla pro posilov\u00e1n\u00ed prst\u016f<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Kdy\u017e cvi\u010d\u00edme prsty, jsou jist\u00e1 pravidla, kter\u00e1 by se m\u011bla dodr\u017eovat (pro na\u0161e zdrav\u00ed). Hlavn\u00edmi jsou pravidla kolem \u010detnosti a pravidelnosti cvi\u010den\u00ed, rozlo\u017een\u00ed v r\u00e1mci tr\u00e9ninkov\u00fdch cykl\u016f<\/a> a hlavn\u011b proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed se!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
  1. Proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed se –<\/strong> proh\u0159ejte se po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b pro boha! Jak jsme tu u\u017e psali, \u0161lachy se hoj\u00ed dlouho a \u0161patn\u011b. Spr\u00e1vn\u00e9 a d\u016fkladn\u00e9 proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed zran\u011bn\u00ed odd\u00e1l\u00ed. Jde nejen o t\u011blo jako celek, ale tak\u00e9 o krk, ramena, p\u0159edlokt\u00ed a z\u00e1p\u011bst\u00ed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Jak \u010dasto tr\u00e9novat prsty –<\/strong> jako v\u0161e kolem cvi\u010den\u00ed, i prsty podl\u00e9haj\u00ed tomu jak rychle se d\u00e1v\u00e1te do kupy a jak \u010dasto jste zvykl\u00ed cvi\u010dit. Pro norm\u00e1ln\u00ed smrteln\u00edky je campusov\u00e1n\u00ed jednou t\u00fddn\u011b dostate\u010dn\u00e9 (s adekv\u00e1tn\u00edm odpo\u010dinkem po). Hangboarding je fajn ob den, ale nijak p\u0159\u00ed\u0161ern\u011b intenzivn\u011b.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Kdy tr\u00e9novat –<\/strong> prsty se v\u0161eobecn\u011b cvi\u010d\u00ed p\u0159ed <\/strong>lezen\u00edm, po d\u016fkladn\u00e9m proh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed (ano, \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m to zase). Je to proto\u017ee p\u0159ed lezen\u00edm je\u0161t\u011b nejsme unaven\u00ed a soust\u0159ed\u00edme se na spr\u00e1vnou formu a intenzitu. Nav\u00edc se sni\u017euje riziko zran\u011bn\u00ed.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    Kde sehnat cviky na prsty?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Cviky na prsty u n\u00e1s bohu\u017eel nese\u017eenete. Nejlep\u0161\u00ed je se pobavit s instruktorem nebo tren\u00e9rem o tom co doporu\u010duj\u00ed. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 je nutn\u00e9 myslet na vlastn\u00ed limity a p\u0159edchoz\u00ed zran\u011bn\u00ed. Mus\u00edme doporu\u010dit slu\u017eby aplikace Crimped <\/a>a zaplacen\u00ed jejich cvi\u010debn\u00edch pl\u00e1n\u016f (Lattice<\/a>). Opravdu to stoj\u00ed za to. Pokud ne, aplikace Beastmaker (nebo jin\u00fd ekvivalent) v\u00e1s tak\u00e9 dob\u0159e provede va\u0161\u00ed cvi\u010debn\u00ed cestou. Je ale nutn\u00e9 \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee cvi\u010den\u00ed prst\u016f nen\u00ed pro ka\u017ed\u00e9ho. N\u011bkdy je lep\u0161\u00ed jen l\u00e9zt a b\u00fdt p\u0159ekvapen v\u00fdsledky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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