{"id":9326,"date":"2023-10-31T12:09:44","date_gmt":"2023-10-31T10:09:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/?p=9326"},"modified":"2024-02-15T20:28:37","modified_gmt":"2024-02-15T18:28:37","slug":"free-climbing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/varp.cz\/en\/free-climbing\/","title":{"rendered":"Lezeck\u00e9 styly: Free climbing"},"content":{"rendered":"

Lezeck\u00fd styl „Free climbing“ (\u010desky voln\u00e9 lezen\u00ed) je n\u011bco, co ka\u017ed\u00fd sportovk\u00e1\u0159 zn\u00e1. Jde o styl, kter\u00fd se \u010dasto plete s free soloingem<\/a>. Chyba, kter\u00e1 je pochopiteln\u00e1, ale velice velk\u00e1. Free climbing je to, co v\u0161ichni zn\u00e1me jako standardn\u00ed „lezen\u00ed“. Jde o lezen\u00ed bez pom\u016fcek a jen vlastn\u00edmi schopnostmi. To by ale byl moc kr\u00e1tk\u00fd \u010dl\u00e1nek, kdybychom to utli u\u017e tu. I v tomto stylu jsou pravidla, historie a nuance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"sed\u00e1k,
Sportovn\u00ed v\u00fdbava; Zub\u00e1k, Radot\u00edn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Co je Free climbing<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Free climbing neboli voln\u00e9 lezen\u00ed je n\u00e1m v\u0161em zn\u00e1m\u00fd lezeck\u00fd styl. Jde o lezen\u00ed jen za pomoc\u00ed sk\u00e1ly a vlastn\u00edch schopnost\u00ed. Cesty a k\u00e1men se nesm\u00ed upravovat (leave no trace<\/a>) a sm\u00ed se pou\u017e\u00edt pouze chyty a stupy, kter\u00e9 jsou na sk\u00e1le. Jde v praxi o \u010dist\u00e9 lezen\u00ed bez pomoci (aidu).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gear<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

V\u00fdbava na voln\u00e9 lezen\u00ed je p\u0159esn\u011b to, co byste \u010dekali. Nutn\u00e9 je tu lano <\/a>(adekv\u00e1tn\u00ed d\u00e9lky), sed\u00e1k<\/a>, presky a carbines <\/a>v dostate\u010dn\u00e9m po\u010dtu, fuse <\/a>v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b tradi\u010dn\u00e9ho lezen\u00ed i vlastn\u00ed ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed jako vkl\u00edn\u011bnce a friendy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Historie a kontroverze<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Free climbing (voln\u00e9 lezen\u00ed) je spojen\u00e9 s hojnou d\u00e1vkou historick\u00e9 kontroverze a ideologick\u00fdch boj\u016f mezi nov\u00fdmi sportovk\u00e1\u0159i a star\u00fdmi lezeck\u00fdmi purit\u00e1ny. V Evrop\u011b i Americe se kolem tohoto stylu srazili ideologick\u00e9 sv\u011bty „tradi\u010dn\u00edch“ lezc\u016f a nov\u011b rod\u00edc\u00edch se sportovk\u00e1\u0159\u016f. O \u010dem byl cel\u00fd probl\u00e9m? O p\u0159\u00edstupu k tomu, co je opravdov\u00e9 „lezen\u00ed“. Sta\u0159\u00ed lezci dr\u017eeli etiku vlastn\u00edho ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed a \u010dist\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup od spodu nahoru. Pokud lezec spadl, musel za\u010d\u00edt znovu. Nov\u00ed sportovk\u00e1\u0159i za\u010dali cesty boltovat, projektovat a praktikovat „hangdogging“ (visen\u00ed v lan\u011b a zkou\u0161en\u00ed sekvenc\u00ed). V tuto dobu se zrodily tak\u00e9 historky kolem \u0159ez\u00e1n\u00ed bolt\u016f a pojem „redpoint“.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Brzy si nov\u00e1 generace lezc\u016f dala za \u00fakol odl\u00e9zt v\u0161e velk\u00e9, co bylo vylezen\u00e9 „\u00e1\u010dkov\u011b“ (za pomoci), na volno. Je d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee tato historie se t\u00fdkala sp\u00ed\u0161e americk\u00fdch Yosemit, kde se vedly \u010dasto a\u017e d\u011btinsk\u00e9 dohady kolem etiky, boltov\u00e1n\u00ed a z\u00e1vody o prvn\u00ed v\u00fdlezy t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdch bigwallov\u00fdch cest. Zhruba v tuto dobu se zrodil tak\u00e9 rychlostn\u00ed rekord na El Capitan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Hlavn\u00ed lezci a v\u00fdstupy<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Hlavn\u00ed lezci jsou zde v\u0161em do jist\u00e9 m\u00edry zn\u00e1m\u00ed. Pat\u0159\u00ed mezi n\u011b tit\u00e1ni jako je Ondra<\/a>, Megos <\/a>or Ghisolfi<\/a>. Historicky jich je ale mnohem v\u00edc. Mimo zn\u00e1m\u00e1 jm\u00e9na ze z\u00e1vod\u016f je nutn\u00e9 pamatovat na tyto lezce a jejich v\u00fdlezy:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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  1. Lynn Hill, „the Nose“ – 8b+\/c<\/strong>
    Lynn Hill<\/a> je legend\u00e1rn\u00ed \u017eensk\u00e1 lezkyn\u011b, prvn\u00ed kter\u00e1 v roce 1993 voln\u011b p\u0159elezla cestu „The Nose“ na sk\u00e1le El Capitan.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Wolfgang Gullich, Action Directe – 9a<\/strong>
    Gullich <\/a>je zn\u00e1m\u00e9 jm\u00e9no. Prvn\u00ed kdo zdolal 9a a ten, kdo stoj\u00ed za dedikovan\u00fdm cvi\u010den\u00edm na lezen\u00ed a za campus <\/a>boardem. Autor modern\u00edch sportovek.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Margo Hayes, La Rambla – 9a+<\/strong>
    Ameri\u010danka     Margo Hayes<\/a> se zapsala do historie, kdy\u017e v roce 2017 jako prvn\u00ed \u017eena prolomila „mytickou“ obt\u00ed\u017enost 9a+ na \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9 cest\u011b“ La Ramble.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  4. Ben Moon – Hubble – 8c+<\/strong>
    Autor Moon Board a legenda britsk\u00e9ho lezen\u00ed, Ben Moon stoj\u00ed za prvn\u00ed cestu v hodnot\u011b 8c+ a za nespo\u010det dal\u0161\u00edch 8a-c.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  5. Chris Sharma – La Dura Dura – 9b+<\/strong>
    St\u00e1le v\u00fdborn\u00fd,     Chris Sharma<\/a> je ikona sportovn\u00edho lezen\u00ed z devades\u00e1tek. Jeho hlavn\u00ed \u00fasp\u011bch je naboltov\u00e1n\u00ed a p\u0159elez cesty La Dura Dura. Mimo to m\u00e1 na kont\u011b i \u00fa\u017easn\u00e1 vodn\u00ed s\u00f3la.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  6. Kurt Albert – „Rot Punkt“<\/a>
    Tento n\u011bmeck\u00fd lezec stoj\u00ed za technikou „    redpointu<\/a>“ na skal\u00e1ch. Autor \u010derven\u00fdch te\u010dek za voln\u011b vylezen\u00fdmi cestami a ment\u00e1ln\u00ed tv\u016frce lezeck\u00fdch projekt\u016f.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  7. Stone Monkeys – Yosemity<\/strong>
    Terminus technikus „    Stone Monkeys<\/a>“ byla generace \u00fa\u017easn\u00fdch sportovn\u00edch lezc\u016f z Yosemit, kte\u0159\u00ed voln\u011b p\u0159elezli a rychlostn\u011b zdolali obrovsk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed skal. Mezi stone monkeys pat\u0159\u00ed legendy jako Dean Potter, Leo Houlding nebo Lori Butz.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

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