Climbing area: Cut

Skály u Řež, aka Řež, is an extensive climbing area just outside Prague. The section is dominantly a sector for traditional climbing. There are a total of 9 rock sectors, of which only 2 are unlocked for sport climbing. Along with that, you can also find a few smaller boulders here. 

Sportovní a tradiční lezení

Boulders

Historie lezení

Skály kolem Řeže jsou opravdu hojně oblezené. Bohužel nevíme, kdy se zde začalo poprvé lézt. Díky dostupnosti oblasti a jednoduchosti některých skal – např. Skalky u Přívozu – je ale možné se domnívat, že se zde leze snad od vždy.

Řež je dominantně tradiční oblast. Na to odkazují takí sektory, které zde jsou. Masivy jsou z relativně pevného buližníku a oblezení křížem krážem. Nejnovější přídavek do Skal kolem Řeže je V. Masiv a Barunka. Dva sektory, které byly velice nedávno krásně sportovně odjištěny a prolezeny.

Pravidla lezení

Pravidla lezení jsou na skalách jasně daná. Na skalách u Řeže platí jasná pravidla. Zákaz měnit podobu skály a přilehlého okolí, zákaz tvorby nových cest a zákaz používání zimní lezecké výzbroje.
Zároveň s tím se pojí pravidla platná pro Přírodní rezervace (kolem Velkého vrchu a Větrušické rokle).

Cut: Climbing sectors

As we already wrote, there are a total of 9 climbing sectors in the area. These sectors are dominantly spread on the slope along the left bank of the Vltava. Only two – Skalka u Přívoz and Pasáček – are on the right bank. There are I. – V. Massif, Barunka (above V. Massif) and the Triangular Wall. Of these, only Barunka and V. Masiv are sportily unlocked.

Sport climbing

V. Massive

The fifth massif there is a pair of rocks right next to the path from the railway. This sector is definitely not among the highest. With its 10 meters, it is ideal for beginner outdoor climbers who don't want to go up Prokop valley. There are a total of 15 paths with levels from 2 (II) to 7a+/b (VIII+). 

The stone, with one exception, does not crumble or fall. Climbing is very safe here. The same applies to the placement of bolts and rivets in roads. A helmet is therefore not as necessary here as in other Prague sectors (such as Hlubočepské plates).

As far as equipment is concerned, even the shortest ropes of 25 meters or more are sufficient here. Safeguard and a seat are a must. Since it is plate climbing, we recommend climbing shoes with hard sole, but they are not a necessity. There are only 3 express ropes for climbing + 2 for securing abseiling (or steel rope). The last thing you need is, as with any big climb, a belay.

Baroness

Barunka is a sector that is reached by a small improvised via ferrata. But once you get there, you have a really well unlocked clean sector in front of you. There are 16 routes on a 15-meter rock. The climb here ranges from pleasant 4th (V.) to solidly challenging 7a+ (VIII/+).

Even here, the rock does not crumble and does not fall from the top. A helmet is therefore more of a recommendation than a necessity. The routes are secured with bolts and rivets in the spirit of sport climbing - you are not in danger of splashing on the ground.

The equipment here is very similar to V. Masiv. The rope must be longer, 40 meters is a pleasant minimum. A helmet is still recommended and a belay, carabiners and a seat are a logical necessity. The climbing here is not dominantly slabby, so a greater number of shoes and soles are "passed over" here. What is different here, however, is the number of express trains. Some trips require seven + 2 for abseiling insurance. So we recommend two full sets.

Traditional climbing

Tradičního lezení je zde hojně. Hlavními dominantami jsou velké masivy II., III. a IV. I. Masiv podlehl sanaci a je nyní nelezitelný. Mimo to tu na pravém břehu najdete i dvě menší, ale stále velice příjemné skalky. Skalka u Přívozu má pak hojně i lezení na top rope, buďte však ohleduplní k místním nýtům na vrcholu.

Bouldering

Boulder near the Vltava

Bouldering here is slightly modest, but it is there. Boulder near the Vltava is a small rockery with 5 lines, mostly at the V1 (5) level. The landing is good here and only one boulder mat is enough. The paths are marked with arrows and the starting holds are not difficult to identify. A spotter isn't necessary, but it's always good to have one. Especially when it comes to mid laners. 

The rockery is ideal for warming up before climbing V. Massif or Barunka. However, this is definitely not a sector full of potential projects.

Skalka u Přívozu: boulder

Druhý boulder „sektor“ je jedna ze stěn Skalky u Přívozu. Jde také spíše o místo na prohřátí, než na dezignované tvrdé bouldrování. Každopadně zde ale máte k dispozici pár příjemných problémů na lištách, byť s neperfektním dopadištěm.