Climbing injuries: Prevention and how to deal with them

Try as we might, it happens to all of us from time to time. Climbing injuries, whether small skin problems or torn ligaments, happen to all of us. But most of the time it's really just a torn skin that will heal quickly. But nobody wants to get hurt. Therefore, there is a question of how to prevent injuries and how to get rid of them quickly. Although we are not doctors, we have already injured ourselves, rehabilitated ourselves and interviewed well-known doctors, so now we will give you advice here.

Skin

Skin injuries are the greatest classics of climbing life. Whether it's torn calluses (flappers), blisters or simply cracked skin (split), it's an annoyance that can be "easily" avoided. But we've already written about that, so if you're interested in how to take care of your skin and what to do about basic injuries, read on PULL.

Crackling heels

Less traditional skin "injuries" include cracked skin on the heels. Tight climbing shoes are surprisingly not the healthiest for your feet. A common result of wearing small shoes is dry, yellowed, cracked skin on the feet (like grandma probably has). But this can be easily avoided. Just take care of your skin a little. Yes, putting cream on your feet is the easiest and cheapest solution. The skin cracks because it is dry. It doesn't crack when it's not dry.

Prevention

• Hydrate the skin

Rope burn

A rope burn is a very painful and impractical injury. But it's not something that happens very often. However, if you manage to stick your limb on the rope during a fall and burn yourself, treat the area the same as you would a normal burn.
The burnt strip will be dry, red and burning. These burns are twofold - superficial and complete. Superficial ones are more of an annoying obstacle that hurts. They usually occur when falling on the first or when panicking on the rope. Clean, rinse and cover the wound (so that you don't get a mess outside of the wound). Then we highly recommend applying Infadolan to the site. With that, within a few days the wound is just an annoying reminder of the fall.

In the case of a complete burn, there will be peeling / burning through the skin. It is a very painful injury, which is better to be treated from time to time. But the same tools apply. Clean, wash and cover if there is a risk of dirt getting into your wound.

Prevention

• Be careful when handling the rope
• Belay present (i.e. pay attention) – most rope burns come from poor belaying

Joints

Knees

Who would have thought that a sport in which you fall all over would lead to knee injuries. But don't worry, it's not just the falls. Putting, drop knees and high steps have no positive impact. According to the latest research, it seems that bouldering "can" account for less than 70% of knee injuries from climbing (Lutter et al., 2020). This is mainly due to much more demanding movements and more frequent falls than on a rope. 

Since we won't be dealing with extremes here, knee injuries and prevention are relatively simple to deal with. The solution is clear. Do not underestimate pain and problems in the joints. If you feel that your knee hurts suspiciously often in one and the same place, don't stay here, but go to a doctor (ideally physio or orthopedics). 

Prevention

• A bit of caution when falling - ease your knees and sag a bit when you jump. You don't always have to absorb everything in your lap
• Strengthen the parts of the body that are not developed by climbing - a few squats and stretches at home won't kill anyone
• Warm-up and warm-up

Shoulders

Unfortunately, climbing injuries have to involve some sort of shoulder problem. Since we hang on our hands as climbers, the shoulders really get used. Especially in dynamic bouldering, it's really something for them. Torn rotators, pulled muscles in the shoulder and shoulder impingement syndrome (impingment) are classics. However, preventing these injuries is even easier than knee injuries.

Above all, pay attention to what your body is telling you. If something hurts a lot, it probably won't be very good. It's important to remember that we can't solve everything by ourselves and it's better to get stuck for a few weeks than to be out of action for months. But in order not to be too negative, here are basic ways to prevent shoulder injuries. Mainly - yes, again - to warm up properly (and a little strengthen)!

Prevention

• Warming up - rotators, neck, chest, arms - all connected and working together
• Strengthening weak body parts
• Correct technique for climbing - It's somewhat logical. When we try to climb as technically correctly as possible, the chance of getting injured decreases

Tendons - Tendonitis

Tendonitis is probably the most annoying in the "climbing injury" category. It occurs when tendons in the body are overstressed. It doesn't just have to be fingers (although that's what we know best). Knees, elbows, ankles, nothing is exempt from this pesky thing. But fingers and wrists are the most common problem for climbers. 

Here the solution is probably the most difficult, as we have to order it ourselves. That is rest. He needs to strengthen his tendons a bit. We have to give them time to grow stronger. When you feel that it's starting to get bad, take a break. If you really don't want a lot, switch to other holds (ideally no leavesF). But when it's already bad, we recommend heat (heated compresses) on painful places, rest and anti-inflammatory drugs / ointments (Voltaren, Olfen gel).

Prevention

• Stop on time
• Getting warmed up (yes, I repeat myself)
• Gradual strengthening and strengthening
• Don't take the grips too hard - a common mistake for beginners, too much digging into the fingers out of fear or as compensation for a lack of technique

Fingers

Yes, the best at last! Fingers are our darlings. It just doesn't work without them. The most feared is the tearing / breaking / tearing of the tendon loop or ligament ring (the so-called finger in the ass). It is not important for us where it happened, but that it happened. These injuries can disable climbers even for several months. If this happens to you, go straight to the doctor. DO NOT attempt to fix an injured finger with tape or rest. Unfortunately, this will not work and will only make things worse. The only correct option is to go to a professional with a disabled seat. He will order fixation and rest, which you will then follow!

Prevention of this climbing injury is largely the same as before. Progressive load, gradual training, warm-up and above all common sense! When it hurts, let it be. But it is important to mention that tape on the finger does not help prevent this injury. Unfortunately, it's just a placebo and injuries happen just as often when you have it as when you don't. 

Prevention

• Warming up
• Step-by-step training process
• Common sense
• Rest and regeneration

The rest

If we were to list everything that exists in the category of "climbing injuries", we would not move from here. Whether it's joints, neck, tendons, bones or muscles, one rule applies - use common sense. Yes, it's a controversial rule, we know. None of us can avoid injury. But if we are collectively a little smarter, we can reduce the risk. This includes things like wearing a helmet, resting, warming up, proper shoes for the trip to the rock, and so on.
For a more detailed article on finger injuries, we recommend And Muerte (Yes, Ondra). If videos are more your thing and you don't mind English, then watch the video above.

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