Mia Krampl

Mia Krampl is a Slovenian climber and the second member of the Olympic climbing team heading to Tokyo this summer. A native of the Slovenian town of Kranj took up climbing after her brother's example. Now she has surpassed him and will stand next to her compatriot and icon of recent years Janja Garnbret at the start of the Games.

Career

Krampl began her climbing career at the age of eight, just two years after she started climbing. Among juniors, her name has become almost synonymous with difficulty climbing. It was in this that she won her first medals from the world championships. She won silver in 2015 and 2016. She fared a little better at the European Championships and at the age of sixteen she became the European champion in difficulty climbing and subsequently in bouldering at the age of eighteen.

Mia Krampl has been competing in the adult division since 2019 and has only had one season to show what she's got (due to the suspension of racing in 2020). However, it was an extremely successful first season for this young climber. Although the gold eluded her, she placed in a position that others her age can only dream of. In the same year, she won silver at the Hachioji Championship and the European Difficulty Climbing Championship, and at the same time she managed to win a bronze in bouldering at the Munich World Championship (with an injured knee).

Mia Krampl and Tokyo 2021

The Olympics in Tokyo will be the biggest race of her provisional career for Mia Krampl, as well as for other climbers. However, Mia is up against very tough opponents. It is safe to say conservatively that Mia has relatively little hope of winning in any one discipline. She is unlikely to beat Janja Garnbret in difficulty, Shauna Coxsey in bouldering or Alexandra Miroslaw in speed. Her only chance is the combined format. Just like Julia Chanourdie or Brooke Raboutou, Mia Krampl will bet a lot on the mistakes of her opponents. The tactics here are very straightforward. Place in the top five (ideally the top three) in climbing for difficulty and then in the top five and top ten in bouldering and speed, achieving a maximum combined score of 250b.

The best combined score we can guess for Mia is 40b. She would achieve it by replicating her lifetime performance of second place in difficulty climbing and third place in bouldering. We keep her in tenth place in terms of speed, as she has no racing experience in this discipline (like many others). Mia has a chance to win the gold. But it is very unlikely that this would be the case. He will rather fight for the bronze position on the podium.

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