Nejlepší lezecké boty pro rok 2024

Ostatní, Counseling, Equipment

A detailed overview of the best climbing for this year, from bouldering, multi-pitch to sport climbing.

We love climbing shoes, we love to talk about them and discuss their differences. The good news for the modern climber is that there are many more models and quality designs to choose from than ever before. Whether you're looking for an aggressively curled shoe to tackle bouldering challenges, an accurate model for long limestone slab sport routes (such as Prague's Hlubocepy) nebo pohodlnou botu na české písky, něco se najde. Proto jsme připravili to nejlepší z našeho roku 2024. A pokud se sportem teprve začínáte, podívejte se na náš návod, jak si jako začínající lezec vybrat perfektní boty.

In the list, you will only find shoes that we have actually tested and that one of us has used or is still using in the last year.

Table of our shoes

Our winners:

  • The most multifunctional climbing shoe: Scarpa Instinct VS
  • The best price/performance ratio: OCUN Pearl
  • Best Shoe for Sport Climbing: La Sportiva Miura VS
  • Best Bouldering Shoe: OCUN Bullit
  • The best boot for joint climbing: Scarpa Force V

With tier

Scarpa Instinct VS, La Sportiva Miura VS and OCUN Bullit share the first place. Each of these climbs is perfect in a different aspect, and therefore it is almost impossible to determine which one is the best (Honza and I would of course say ours).

Scarpa Instinct VS

Ideal for: Sport climbing, bouldering, indoor climbing

Upper: Microfiber

Sole: Vibram XS Edge (3.5mm)

+ A multifunctional shoe that can be used for almost anything. Great foot support, harder.

– A softer shoe would be better for the sands and some boulders

Instinct VS je relativně starší bota od společnosti Scarpa, which quickly gained popularity. It has established itself as a versatile choice for sport climbing and bouldering, but is also a frequent choice for indoor and competition climbing (climbing legend Alex Puccio lists the Scarpa Instinct VS as his go-to shoe). The firm toe and heel with a well-shaped rubber are excellent on steep rock, and the medium-stiff two-piece sole offers more power when climbing fences. Unlike most bouldering shoes, Scarpa does not lose this function.

The Scarpa boot is made of synthetic microsuede, so it stretches less than a leather boot, but thanks to the elastic band on the instep, it adapts well. The stiff feel and slight drop set it apart from most boots made for performance sport climbing and bouldering, but the thinner 3.5mm sole adds sensitivity and flexibility (note that the XS Edge rubber on the men's version is replaced by XS Grip 2 rubber on the women's model for even softer and more grippy shoe). Scarpa also offers the same design in a softer version with a 2mm sole (VSR), ideal for lighter climbers or those who prefer more feel in their feet.

La Sportvia Miura VS

Ideal for: Sport climbing, multi-length climbing, bouldering

Upper: Skin

Sole: Vibram Grip2 (4mm)

+ A solid shoe suitable for sport climbing. Velcro fastening. Endurance.

– A softer shoe would be more suitable for bouldering.

It's hard not to be impressed by La Sportiva's older model, the Miura. It really speaks to the quality of La Sportiva's craftsmanship that this shoe was cutting edge ten years ago and still is today. The Miura moves at a five on edges, climbs steep terrain as well as vertical, excels in small pockets as well as any other shoe in the business. There aren't many boots that can handle 9c sport climbing.

The velcro Miura has become much more common than the lace-up in recent years, and for good reason. The Miura VS is a stiffer, more aggressive shoe and unlike a lace-up, it is also constructed with a P3 midsole. While the Miura Lace can turn into a slouchy, comfortable shoe in no time, the VS retains its aggressive shape for years. Still, with the leather upper, expect the Miura to stretch out a bit over time (if that worries you, check out the semi-synthetic Otaki below). Furthermore, many climbers agree that the toe is very cramped in the shoe.

OCUN Bullit

Ideal for: Bouldering, climbing in the hall

Upper: Microfiber

Sole: CAT rubber 1.5 (4mm)

+ Comfortable shoe excellent for small steps, toeing and putting

– Not ideal for rocks

Bullit are one of the high-end climbing frames of the Czech company Ocún. The workmanship of the shoe is almost perfect. Suitable for all foot types – narrow and wide – and all toe types, the Bullit really does fit just about everyone. The soft toe and good edges on the asymmetric shoe allow the climber to have great feeling in the fingers and manipulation even on the smallest weak steps (tested by Hlubočepy).

The Ocún Bullit are, like the Miuras for example, Velcro shoes. This only adds to the comfort and practicality of the bouldering shoe. Its quick on and off, feel, edges and large rubberized toe and heel are bouldering surgical instruments. However, we do not recommend taking the Bullit too often for sport rock climbing. While the shoe is more than capable of tackling indoor wall and outdoor bouldering, it's not built for an extensive combination of both. Nevertheless, there are sectors (such as Pražské Hlubočepy) where a soft bouldering shoe shines even in combination with a rope.

A tier

In this second place, there are shoes that are perfect in their own disciplines, yet they lack something for the first places. Whether it is low versatility or lower quality materials. This position is shared by the OCUN Prearl and Scarpa Vapor V climbers.

OCUN Pearl

Ideal for: Sport climbing, multi-length climbing

Upper: Microfiber

Sole: CAT rubber 1.5 (4mm)

+ Comfortable shoe excellent for small steps, toeing and putting

– Not suitable for rocks

The Ocún Pearl is one of the most popular climbing shoes in the world. Pearly, like many performance shoes from the Ocún workshop, this model also shines with its grip and ability to work on tiny steps. Lacing is provided by a lace with a quick tightening system (it gets its name), which makes the shoe a very strong and precise tool. Comfort is ensured by the padded tongue and the "twist" style of the shoe, which tightens and strengthens the foot.

These climbs, despite their awesomeness, aren't as good as the others in the S tier for a few reasons. The "twist" mechanism makes the shoe an exclusive model only for climbers with a narrow foot (wide feet will not fit in the toe). The second negative is the tip. Although the heel is rubberized and ready for putting, the toe is not. Unlike shoes like the Bullit or Instinct VS, the Pearly does not have a very rubberized toe cap, which limits its potential. The last "defect" of the shoes is the rubber itself. Although it is wonderful for climbing outside, it wears out quickly inside, which leads to the need for a resole (replacement of the sole) after about half a year to a year. However, if you get over this likely necessity (and put on Vibram XS edge shoes) you will have, like the Honz here, an amazing multi-functional shoe for both rocks and indoor walls that is comfortable, strong and able to move on the edges of the coin.

Scarpa Vapor V

Ideal for: Sport climbing, indoor climbing, Bouldering

Upper: Leather/microfibre

Sole: Vibram XS Edge (3.5mm)

+ A solid shoe, ideal for precise movements

– The rubber on the top of the tip (toe-hook) could be bigger

Scarpa Vapor V is one of the most famous shoes from this Italian manufacturer. After a recent redesign, the shoes have greatly changed their shape and appearance. Their stronger construction makes them almost ideal shoes for sport climbing mainly on vertical and slab walls with tiny holds. The solid tip with Vibram XS Rubber guarantees ideal grip and surprisingly good durability. Resole was needed on the shoes only after more than one year (regular load of one or two climbs per week). At the same time, this wide tip maintains high comfort.

Finally, while the Vapor V balances the conflicting priorities better than most other climbers, it doesn't transition very well between steep climbing and bouldering, although the nice rubber on the heel allows for basic putting. However, if you are looking for a shoe that can handle most disciplines and is comfortable at the same time, the Vapor V model is worth keeping in your sights.

B tier

In section B we put shoes that we are sure are very good, but for some reason they have not yet convinced us of anything. Their performance is very often strongly focused, which is why we prefer other models. This position was occupied by OCUN Havoc, La Sportiva Otaki and OCUN Rebel QC shoes

OCUN Havoc

Ideal for: Indoor climbing, bouldering

Upper: Microfiber

Sole: CAT rubber 1.5 (4mm)

+ Excellent soft shoe for indoor climbing and competitive climbing

-Insufficient foot support during rock climbing

La Sportiva Otaki

Ideal for: Sport climbing, technical bouldering

Upper: Leather/microfibre

Sole: Vibram XS Edge (4mm)

+ Solid construction, ideal for vertical and slab climbing

-The shape of the shoe may not fit everyone (place for a huge toe)

-Not suitable for sand and competitive bouldering  

OCUN Rebel QC

Ideal for: Indoor climbing, bouldering, sport climbing

Upper: Microfiber

Sole: CAT rubber 1.5 (4mm)

+ Comfortable shoes

+ excellent shoes for beginners

– Freer tip, worsened vertical and plate climbing

C tier and D tier

The fourth and fifth places are filled with shoes that we do not recommend. They have a place among beginner climbers, but you can find more suitable models for them as well. Tier C was occupied by La Sportiva Finale and Scarpa Force V. Then Tier D was occupied by shoes that you better avoid. OCUN Crest QC, Scarpa Velocity and La Sportiva Tarantula. In the last section I would also assign shoes from of the reviewed Decathlon, Simond Rock+.

What's next? as the hunt for the best climbers continues

And what shoes are we going to wear next? Here you will find a list of shoes we plan to test in the future. For now, we are only looking at them, but we are happy to try them out as soon as possible. We will continue to edit the list for the best climbers and we will certainly inform you if we manage to find new champions.

Scarpa Boostic, Booster, Drago, Furia Air

La Sportiva Katana Lace, TC Pro

5.10 Anasazi Pro, Crawe

Saltic AVAX. Enigma Black