New combined IFSC format

The new combined IFSC format is here. After, the relatively chaotic first ones Climbing Olympic Games in Tokyo, it was necessary to change the combined format. Revision cuts speed climbing (much to the delight of many) and focuses on the climbing format that will be at the Paris 2024 Olympics.

Overview

Combination or the new IFSC combined format, focuses on bouldering and climbing difficulty scoring. In total, a climber can get up to 200 points in combination, 100 for bouldering and 100 for difficulty. The climber with the highest number of points wins. The goal is to avoid confusing multiplication and moving standing podium positions Ondra and Narasaki medal last summer.

Bouldering

This is probably the biggest difference. In each round (first round, semi-final, final) to which a competitor advances, there will be four problems rated at 25b. each. Boulders will have 2 zones (compared to one before) and a top. The lower zone will be worth 3 points, the higher zone will be worth 6, and the top will get a full 25 points. At the same time, climbers will lose 1 point for each unsuccessful attempt.

Here, climbers like Janja Garbret, who can top everything on the first try.

Climbing difficulty (Lead)

Here, too, the maximum score is set at 100. There will be one path per difficulty in each round. However, the difference from past competitions is that only the last 30 moves will be scored. The last 15 catches from the top will be worth 5 points each, the next 10 catches below that will be worth 2 points and the first 5 catches counted in this way will be worth 1 point. The standard difficulty path is around 50 holds.

In theory, this should balance the difference between lead and bouldering specialists.