Right plate - Hlubočepské plates

Routes, Hlubočepské plates, Sport climbing

Hlubočepské plates

Number of trips:15+4
Height: 30 m
Rock: Limestone
Trip Type: Laid down
GPS: 50.0431944N, 14.3925556E
public transport: bus 120, 258, train Prague – Žvahov, Prague – Hlubočepy
Parking: Hlubočepská street
Pdf guide: here

Pravá plotna is a climbing area inside the protected area of the Prokop Valley, part of the Hlubočepská plotna sector. The limestone slab is one quarter up the slope while most of the slab with lighter routes flanks the railway line. The sector is equipped with borhák and salt flats. On the roads along the railway (7 to 16) the first belay is two meters higher than when it was created. The reason for this is the lowering of the railway tracks and the excavating of part of the soil (the difference is visible on the rock with a color transition). A helmet is a must on Pravá plná, both for climbers and belayers! The roads are broken and pedestrians move on top of the plate.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing.

Hlubočepské plotny pravá plotna s vyznačenými odjištěnými cestami

Right plate:

GPS: 50.0431944N, 14.3925556E
Via Viktor (1)

6b+ (VIII)

The path along the left edge of the massif. For protection, borhák and the golem road are used. However, the route itself is very difficult. A helmet is a must for belayers and climbers! The beginning of the path is on a very slippery sandy slope. The securing should therefore take place from the recess located in the first bolt, located at the edge of the plate.

Length: 25 m
Insurance: 7 + salt shaker
Author: Tomáš Vlček, Jindřich Vimr, Martin Tučka, 2017

Golem (2)

7b+ (IX-)

The path starts approximately two meters to the right of Via Viktor. The first belay is a rivet (supplied after the first ascent) relatively accessible from the edge. This is followed by well-secured and pleasantly challenging and safe climbing. The path is not as crumbly as the first numbers in the sector, but a helmet is still recommended due to the movement of tourists at the top of the plate.

Length: 17m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: E. Pohořelský and L. Cermák, 2010

Odysseus's Journey (3)

7a (VIII)

This path leads through the middle of the plate, over five borkhas and the delivered rivet for rappelling. The path is slightly crumbly and the first rivet is not easily accessible. We therefore recommend a shahlo or boulder mat for climbers. The line goes straight up to the hole where it turns left to abseil.

Length: 18m
Insurance: 5
Author: Lukáš Cermák, 2010

Position uncertain (4)

7a (VIII)

The first line in the plate after the approach from the tracks. The precarious position leads through a small stream straight up to abseiling just below the summit. The climber is unlocked at a total of 5 points by a combination of rivets and bolts. Climbing here is on very small ledges and steps. It is therefore recommended to climb with hard soles. For the first bolt, the same precautions apply as for Odysseus' journey.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: S. Rataj, 1990

Big corner (5)

6a (VI+)

In this case, it is a combination of sport and traditional climbing. The entrance is in the corner using the left plate. This is followed by a corner climb over four bolts to abseil. Between the first and second fixed belaying, it is necessary to connect traditional methods - loop, wedges. The route is not for beginner climbers or purely sport climbers without experience with traditional belaying. As with other routes, a helmet is required.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 4 + slanák (+ traditional)
Author: I. David, J. Vrbicky, M. Beránek, 1968

Big corner - crack variant (Var 5.1)

6b (VIII)

Variant path 5. The large corner is separated from the parent corner just below the second fixed belay. Unlike route 5, the variant leads along the right part of the corner over an overhang. The variant is equipped with one fixed safety device in the middle. For the rest of the journey, the same knowledge as for 5. Velký kout applies.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 3 + slanák (+ traditional)
Author: L. Háp, 1992

Free project (6)

— —

Route along the left corner over five bolts to the joint rappelling of routes 7, 7.1 and 8. A certain crumbling of the left edge is assumed.

Length: 25 m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: Authors unknown

Eyes open (7)

6b+ (VII+)

The entrance to the road is at the right edge. The first borhák is higher than at the first ascent, when belaying you have to pay attention to passing trains. Continue the path across 2 borháks diagonally to the left to the left edge. Along it up through 3 hooks to the top and to the joint abseiling of three routes. The road is mentally difficult around the second bog.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 6+ salt shaker
Author: E. Frei, 1992

Glass Eye (Var 7.1)

7a+ (VIII+)

The variant of route 7. Oči púci starts at the left edge and connects to route 7 in its third borhák via a small traverse through a crack. The variant has only one original borhák of its own. Now it is possible to use the second bolt of route 6. A free project or it is possible to insert small wedges into the joints. However, falling on a traverse will cause a considerable pendulum. For the rest of the journey, the knowledge from journey 7 applies. Eyes open.

Length: 28 mm
Insurance: 6 + salt shaker
Author: P. Babinec, 2012

At the edge (8)

6b+ (VII+)

A well-secured path leading along the right edge over six boulders to abseiling. The path is climbed using an edge. However, it can be made more difficult and can be climbed even without it. The road itself has a beautiful view of Hlubočepy.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 6 + salt shaker
Author: March, 2002

Rail way (9)

6a (VI+)

Boarding is in the left corner. We recommend inserting a wedge before the first borhák. Subsequently, through two borháks and three circles to abseil at the top. The road is very crumbly! A helmet is therefore necessary. The circuit breaker must, for all variants of the Railway route, keep an eye on the train. With a wedge in front of the first borhák, it is the safest path of the right plate.

Length: 25 m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: M. Sýkora, 1990

Railway Medium Variant (Var 9.1)

4+ (V+)

Climbing through the first rib of the plate. The path leads through two borháks and connects to the first circle of the Railway. But as is common on this plate, the first borhák is higher than when creating the path. Therefore, we do not recommend the route for climbers at level 4+ to climb the first. The same crumbling as the mother's way.

Length: 28m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: Robert Hons, P. Anelt, 1987

Railway Right Variant (Var 9.2)

4 (IN)

Ascent to the right at the end of the first rib. The path runs along the top of the ridge and connects to the first circle of the Railway. As with the two previous routes, the Železníční pravá option is a broken path and a helmet is a must. If possible, insert the wedge between the first and second express.

Length: 30 m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: Authors unknown

Nostalgia (10)

4+ (V+)

The entrance to the path is on the second rib between the right-hand variant of the Railway and Tatanka. The path leads over three rivets to the top. You can then rappel on the last fourth rivet or on the abseil of routes 12 and 13. The first rivet is high, so use a wedge if you can. If not, it is possible to use the first borhák of route 9.2.

Length: 28m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: T. Vlček, 1988

Tatranka (11)

6a (VI+)

The first borhák of this path is at the level of the third borhák of the other paths of the plate. Therefore, click the first express train into the first barriers of route 10 or 9.2. After the first fixed way belay, the rest is very straightforward. The path is secured by a total of 5 borháks and ends at the top of the plate near the abseil. Here, too, it is necessary to wear a helmet and watch out for the passing train.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: T. Vlček, L. Balík, 18.6.2008

When you run out of steam (12)

6a (VI+)

As with the others, here too the first bolt is built high, so we recommend paying attention to safety. But the path is very straight. They climb up over three boulders and then along a crack to abseil. The path is quite crumbly, so a helmet is necessary. A pendulum awaits the second climber when he falls.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: J. Drozda, 2014

Marodka (13)

4b (IN-)

Over the overhang through the crack and along the corner to abseil. The first rivet is behind a more demanding overhang, which ideally the climber will unlock with a friend. When climbing, we recommend vigilance and a helmet, due to the high position of the first rivet and the brittleness of the upper part of the rock.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: M. Tučka, M. Honců, 2011

Adéla hasn't had dinner yet (14)

4b (IN-)

Road in the third rib from the back. Over two borháks for abseiling shared with routes 15 and 16. Like route 16, this first bolt is also uncomfortably high. We recommend caution in the section in front of the steeple, as the second bolt is far from the steeple.

Length: 14m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: J. Drozda and M. Vítězník, 2008

Motor bike (15)

4c (IN)

The path through the penultimate rib. After the second bolt, you proceed to the third bolt of route 14. Adéla hasn't had dinner yet. This leads to joint rappelling for routes 14, 15 and 16. Compared to other routes, the route is well secured from below. The potential for injury comes when falling from a scree, where there is smothered slippery ground and breakable rock.

Length: 16m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: M. Tučka, M. Honců, 2011

It's not about numbers (16)

5a (V+)

The path along the last rib over three bolts to abseiling. In general, he is moving along a nice path. But it is crumbly and dangerous. The higher you go, the more breaking the holds are. A helmet is recommended, especially for belayers. The first bolt is three meters higher than at the first ascent. The route is a difficulty 4+, but not suitable for climbers of this level.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: M. Tučka, P. Babinec, 2010

Lezecký průvodce je takédostupný v pdf formatu na portálu Patreon.com. TOPO průvodce pražskými lezeckými oblastmi
loader-image
Prague
17:07, 21.11.2024
temperature icon 2°C
almost clear
Humidity 76 %
Wind 9 Km/h
Wind Gust: 0 Km/h
Visibility: 10 km
Sunrise: 07:25
Sunset: 16:11
Weather from OpenWeatherMap
📑PDF

Access:

The right plate is the lower sister of the left plate. The Praha-Žvahov railway station is located approximately 500m from the right-hand side. There are three main ways to access the sector.

The northern access road is the least used. It leads from Prague 5 through a meadow with astral circles and down the slope to the plates. South and south-east approaches are more popular. Both are accessible from the Praha, Nádraží Hlubočepy stops.

The south-eastern route leads from the stop of buses 120 and 258. If you came in the direction of travel to Radotín, we recommend that you go back a few meters against the direction of travel and turn left into Hlubočepská street and the next right into Pod útesy street. At the end of this street, turn right again and join the street Ke Hřbitovu, which leads uphill. If you arrived in the direction of Na Knížecí, it is faster to go along Slivenecká Street, which you will see on the left in front of you in the direction of travel. Through here you will come to a crossroads, where you turn left into Ke Hřbitovu street and then the first street on the right. Both options will take you to the train tracks at the top of the hill. After those, head left until you come across the raised right slab. We emphasize that it is an active railway, be careful in front of the train, both during the journey and when climbing!

The southern path to the right plate leads along Hlubočepská Street. It is necessary to pass under the semmering, behind which you can conveniently parallel park for free. After semmering, the climber goes down the first street to the right along K Dalejím street and then after the pub Hurdálková chýše jedová around the rock to the right again, where he comes to the fork next to the Skalničková garden of Hlubočepy. He will again take the path to the right and continue until, you guessed it, he hits a well-trodden path through the trees on the right (behind a bench with a trash can). From here, you will take the lower path along a small slope and a small hill to the tracks and the right plate.

public transport: Bus stop 120, 258 Nádraží Hlubočepy, train stations Prague – Žvahov and Prague – Hlubočepy

Parking: Hlubočepská Street behind Semmering, Pod Žvahovem, Pod Útesy

🚀 Comments