Sandstone climbing rules

We have already compiled the rock climbing rules here, as this is the area in which we mostly move. A large part of the climbing culture in Bohemia is also sandstone. Climbing on sandstone is very specific here and has its own full set of rules, which differ in many ways from the rules of rock climbing. The rules of climbing on sandstone are a tricky topic, so before we get into it, we need to say where we got the information from. It will probably not be surprising to find out that it is the Czechoslovak People's Party and theirs attached pdf.

general information

The rules for climbing sandstone apply to all rocks other than sandstone in Moravia. The rules are very clear, with the fact that "what is not forbidden is allowed". Of course, with regard to other legislation of the Czech Republic and nature protection + directives of the individual protected areas where the rocks are located.

Last but not least, climbing means climbing on a rope. Unfortunately, bouldering is not yet codified or treated under permits, rules or prohibitions or orders. Therefore, we ask boulderers to be especially careful. Along with that, in the case of sandstones, it is necessary to respect the Czech sandstone culture.

Protection of the nature

Nature protection is the basis of all climbing permits. Compliance with this part of the regulation is therefore indisputable. As climbers we are obliged to:

1. Pay attention to cleanliness and order and to behave in a way that does not harm nature - the idea of everything from grass to rocks and trees. 

2. Use for climbing, access and descent marked paths only. What does it mean? Climb where you find a sign indicating the climbing sector (painted triangles) or stick to the CHS database. Lezec.cz is not ideal for this, as anyone can add anything there. So, if you are wondering if climbing is allowed somewhere, look at the ČHS. If you are wondering how to get to the sector non-invasively, we recommend looking at Mapy.cz.

3. Follow the signs forest managers, conservationists, land owners, etc.

The following things are expressly prohibited:

1. How to change the surface of the rocks. That is no adjustment of holds or steps to make climbing easier. Practice Styles'Just do it” are therefore not tolerated – not that anyone would mind.
2. Use a belay that damages the rock. That is, friends, wedges, staples, etc. Along with that, the rock or surrounding plants must not be damaged when taking the loops.
3. Damage the rock surface when handling the rope. In practice, this means trying to limit excessive top-roping (climbing "on a fish") and other practices where the rope rubs the rock unnecessarily.
4. Use shoes with hard soles or climb on wet or damp rocks. Yes, sandstone dries slowly. If you don't know what hard shoes are, look come here.

Fixed hedging

Fixed belay – i.e. bolts, lugs, rivets and rings – are the key to climbing. Here, the method and placement of fixed points is the responsibility of the person who placed them. For those of us who do not drill roads, two main things apply:

1. Fixed belay checks are on all climbers! During climbing, only those points are used that correspond to the standard and methodology of the Czechoslovak National Association, determined by the opinion of the climber. If you find a point that fundamentally does not correspond, you are obliged to report it to the Summit Committee of the Association or the administrator of the rock area. Contacts for both are on the portal of the Czech Mountaineering Association.
2. It is for fixed insurance need to be careful. Ideally, during the top-rope belay, secure yourself via two carabiners and do not pull the rope through the rope. When you finish on the route, it is then necessary to remove the carabiners and abseil from the route. This will prevent excessive damage to the end points of belaying on the rocks.
3. Routes are subject to approval by the local top committee and are not allowed to be changed once approved!
4. Fixed points on sandstones are not allowed to be used for activities other than climbing - e.g. rappelling or via ferrata.

Sport climbing

Sport climbing is a separate category on sand, i.e. has its own set of rules. In general, it is valid here that you climb from below without sitting down or other aids - i.e. Free climbing, climbing on the first. Toproping has less sporting value and a route climbed other than using natural holds does not count.

1. May be used for hedging only fixed points, loops, rope and circles.
2. Artificial means of ascent – ladders, logs, etc. – are unsporting and not used. This point plays a role especially at high entrances to roads.
3. Magnesium is not part of climbing ethics on sand and not used. Especially if the routes are easier to climb than IXa (7b).
4. The rope is only used for belaying.
5. Loops are the main method of belaying on sandstones. They must be placed in the rock or on nearby accessible points such as trees. They must be removed after use. When sitting down into a loop, you must continue from the same holds and steps.
6. Abort the climb – e.g. by falling or sitting down – means aborting a valid attempt. After the fall, the climber can deliver to the last belay point. However, for a valid climb, the route must be climbed without interruption.
7. Entry in the top book is only allowed if the above rules have not been violated.

Bouldering

Bouldering is codified here, but only marginally. According to the rules, it is free climbing on low rocks (up to 5m) without the use of belaying or rope. Catches and stupas can be prescribed or excluded. A valid climb is considered to be a climb without stopping from the prescribed starting position.

Supervision of compliance with the rules

The best for the end. How is compliance with all these rules monitored? It's up to us as a climbing community. When we see something that violates the rules - judged by our own morality - it is our duty to report it to the area administrator or the Supreme Commission. After all, climbing is closely linked to community. That is why she also follows the rules.

What haven't we mentioned?

In the article "Rules for climbing on sandstone" we did not mention the possibilities of new ascents, the creation of new routes and the creation of new belays. We have a good reason for that, of course. This topic is very extensive, with its own history, terms and rules, which are worthy of a separate article. This is primarily about the basics of the rules of climbing on sandstone - such as, for example, Vinoř.

Central High Commission

Weisser Pavel	chairman of CVK	pavel.weisser@horosvaz.cz
Pletich Jan	vice-chairman of CVK	jenik.pleticha@email.cz
Abbot Lukáš	OVK Jeseníky and Rychlebské mountains	peak@seznam.cz
Stanislav Bartošek	OVK North Moravia	s.bartosek@seznam.cz
Otto's brickyard	OVK Dubská skály	otto.cihelna@post.cz
Newbie Karel	OVK Broumovsko	ovkbroumovsko@gmail.com
Jesenský Jan	OVK South Bohemia	jan.jesensky@uzsvm.cz
Meier Radek	OVK Hruboskalsko	meierradek@atlas.cz
Kilian Ondrej	OVK Vysočina	vk.vysocina@email.cz
Pletich Jan	OVK Labské pískovce	jenik.pleticha@email.cz
Seagull Tomas	OVK East Bohemia	tomas.racek@adr-rock.cz
Čuba Jan	OVK Tisá	jan.cuba@volny.cz
Janata Petr	OVK West Bohemia	petr.janata@volny.cz
Dry sausage Pavel	OVK Northwest Bohemia	parekteam@seznam.cz
Skypala Vladimir	OVK Moravské pískovce	skypala@abidesign.cz
Tučka Martin	OVK Prague and Central Bohemia	martan.kladno@seznam.cz
Vlach Tomas	OVK Prachov	vlach.tomas@email.cz
Peter Waller	OVK rocks on Mužské	wallerpetr@seznam.cz
Weisser Pavel	OVK South Moravia	pawelw@volny.cz
Nutritious Roman	OVK Lusatia and Jizera Mountains	ovk.jlh@gmail.com
Comforter Vladimir	material, technology, training	vladimir.tesitel@gmail.com

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