Cut near Prague – V. Masiv

Routes, Skály u Řeže, Sport climbing

Number of trips: 15
Height: 10 m
Rock: Buližník
Type of trips: Vertical
GPS: 50.1810000N, 14.3600556E
public transport: train: Cut
Bus stops: Husinec, Řež
Parking: Inside the village of Řež, parking lot in K Hotel street
Pdf guide: here

V. Massiv is one of the nine climbing sectors within the Skály u Řež climbing area. The massif is excellently unlocked and secured. The rivets are very close together, which is ideal for climbers new to outdoor climbing. It is vertical sport climbing, usually on small steps, holds and ledges. The rock is not friable and is not accessible from the top. The road to the sector runs along the railway. The rails are a few meters from the stand, so caution is advised. However, there is a lot of simplicity, so the only danger that realistically threatens is a startle while climbing and a small fall.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing.

Catching the Train

GPS: 50.1793283N, 14.3552053E
Catching the Train (1)

4a (IV+)

Středem plotny na vrchol. Nástup na zastávce vlaku Řež.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 3
Author: Matyáš Karpaš, 2021

V. Masiv – Koutek

GPS: 50.1809561N, 14.3596533E
Cesta do Valhally (1)

6a (VI+)

Stěnou vzhůru, od druhého lehce do prava a dále od borháku k borháku.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: Matyáš Karpaš, Tomáš Karpaš, 2022

Ukrajinská (2)

5a (V+)

Od borháku k borháku. Pozor lámavé.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: Matyáš Karpaš, Tomáš Karpaš, Josef Hanzl, 2022

  • vyznace lezecke trasy 5. masivu Řež u Prahy - skalní lezení
  • vyznace lezecke trasy 5. masivu Řež u Prahy - skalní lezení cesty 1 2 3

V. Massive – left part

GPS: 50.1810000N, 14.3600556E
Superman (1)

7a+/7b (VIII+)

The path leads to the left from the edge on a small rock and path No. 2. The climbing here is on small ledges and steps in the style of plate climbing. After the first rivet, the path turns slightly to the left and leads through the center of the plate to the abseil.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 3 rivets + slanák
Author: Lukáš Posekany, 2012

Professor's Edge (2)

6b (VIII)

The entrance to the path is under the overhang (marked by an arrow) and continues over it to the edge. Here the climber locks into the rivet and continues up over the edge. Two more rivets and rappelling follow.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 3 rivets + slanák
Author: Lukáš Posekany, 2012

Stairway to Heaven (3)

2 (III)

The easiest route of the sector. The stairs to the sky lead along a rugged profile to the left along large ledges and handrails, over three belay points to abseil.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 3 rivets + slanák
Author: Unknown

Opera version (4.1)

3a (III+)

The climber climbs the wall between the edge to the left and the exit to the right to the first bolt. Here it secures itself and continues upwards through the next bolt to the joint abseiling with route No. 3. The climber uses the entire edge of the rock for this route.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 2 borháks + slanák
Author: Unknown

Opera (4)

2 (II)

This path runs along the left edge of the massif. However, in the middle, before the crux of the corner of the Migrén route, it connects to the Stairs to Heaven route, which it leads to abseiling.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 2 borháks + slanák
Author: Unknown

Migraine (5)

4c (IN)

The path follows a natural line between the left edge and the protrusion to the right of it. Here, the climber progresses through two corners using rails and handholds.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 2 bolts + slanák
Author: Unknown

Yman (6)

6b (VIII)

Yman is the first of the sector's more difficult routes and is marked by an inscription on a rock. The first half of the journey is along pleasant edges and handrails. However, the second half is plate climbing on ledges and small steps.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 3 rivets + slanák
Author: Unknown

Batman (7)

6a+ (VII-)

Climbing here takes place over two shelves separated from each other by climbing on ledges. The route is relatively well secured, but the second belay point does not click well for shorter climbers. We therefore recommend caution.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 3 rivets + slanák
Author: Unknown

Spiderman (8)

6b+ (VIII)

A path leading upwards along ledges and pleasant holds, over three rivets to the rappel itself. The entire line is based on a very high altitude, smaller climbers will have to find more courage to click.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 3 rivets + slanák
Author: Lukas Chopped

five (9)

6a+ (VII-)

A line ideal for climbing if you want to climb the harder routes of the sector, but also good enough to project for those who want to work their way up to the harder ones. The fifth is a well-secured combination of slats and handles. Unfortunately, the stupas are crumbling a little in places.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 2 rivets + saltwater
Author: Josef Novák, 2013

Superjacket (10)

6a+ (VII-)

A slightly crumbly path that climbs up the slab with the help of an edge. It is a combination of slats and strokes. It is necessary to note here that the path is a bit crumbly, so the breaker should have head protection.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 2 rivets + saltwater
Author: Josef Novák, 2013

Edge (11)

2+ (III)

This route leads along the edge of the massif without the climber climbing over the edge with his whole body. Lines are dominantly good catches and pulls. Unfortunately, there is only one belay, common with the Superjanek route.

Length: 8m
Insurance: 1 rivets + slanák
Author: Unknown

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V. Massive – Right part

GPS: 50.1811456N, 14.3606536E
Hotplate (1)

6b+/c (VII+)

The plate is the first route of the sector. It is around the left corner from the main rock. The line goes straight up the plate. It is climbed on ledges and small sharp steps. Securing is provided by two rivets and a rope.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 2 rivets + saltwater
Author: Unknown

Mesner warm-up (2)

6a (VI+)

Perpendicular path with entry under a small overhang. The climber continues upwards after good holds at the right edge, over the overhang and onto the abseil. It is secured with 3 rivets. The road does not have its own cable car. However, it is possible to use the abseiling of the side route.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 3 rivets
Author: Unknown

dirty boy (3)

7a+ (VIII)

The hardest way of this rock. Dirty boy enters in the right part of the rock near the arrow with the name. The first part of the line runs along the slats, after the second rivet it turns into handrails and ropes. The upper half of the trail is slightly crumbly. The climber is secured with three rivets and a rope.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 2 rivets + saltwater
Author: Unknown

Swan Song (4)

4c (IN)

The easiest route of the sector. The swan song leads along the right edge of the rock along large bends and handrails. The climber is secured by two rivets and a rope.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 2 borháks + slanák
Author: Unknown

Lezecký průvodce je takédostupný v pdf formatu na portálu Patreon.com. TOPO průvodce pražskými lezeckými oblastmi
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Rež, CZ
17:40, 21.11.2024
temperature icon 1°C
partly cloudy
Humidity 78 %
Wind 15 Km/h
Wind Gust: 0 Km/h
Visibility: 10 km
Sunrise: 07:26
Sunset: 16:11
Weather from OpenWeatherMap
📑PDF

Access

Access to sector V. Massiv is very simple and straightforward. Both routes, i.e. from the public transport and from the parking lot, lead the same way. A climber coming from the village must cross the footbridge and walk to the station. Those who arrive by train get off it (as is usual) and then look for a path. It is on the left side of the tracks (when looking at the road from Prague) and is small and dusty, but since it is the only one, it is hard to miss. With this, the climber goes towards the rock, which is approximately 200 m away from the station, on the left side. It is the only massif easily accessible from the road, so it is almost impossible to miss.

public transport:
Train: Řež station
Bus stops: Husinec, Řež, Záv.

Parking:
Street village Řež
Parking lot in Hlavní and K Hotel streets

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