How to choose the right climbing shoes

How to choose climbing shoes is a question that every climber has asked at least once, and you are probably asking yourself now too. Here are four things you should know before you dive headfirst into the selection. These are 1. what type of climbing you want, 2. binding and 3. how you want it to fit and 4. what sole you need.

1. Types of climbing shoes - there are three main ones and they are divided according to the inclination or "aggressiveness" of the sole into neutral, moderate and aggressive.
2. Binding - or how quickly you want to get the shoe off your foot. There are three shoe options here – slip-on, lace-up and velcro
3. Size - climbing shoes tend to be smaller than shoes for everyday wear, but it is necessary to test in advance how much smaller you want them and whether they will expand during use (if not, the shoe may be almost unusable).
4. Sole - there are many different soles and type of rubber for different purposes and not all are suitable for all.

Menu:

1. Types of climbing frames
2. Size
3. Rubber / Sole
4. Ideal shoes for beginners
5. Get inspired by VARP

Types of climbing frames

Neutral

The neutral type of climbing shoes is the least aggressive, i.e. with the least bent sole. They are most comfortable on the feet, as they allow the toes to be in a natural straight position. This makes them ideal climbers for new climbers who are just figuring out how to choose climbers. The thumb usually ends up stretched exactly (or approximately exactly) at the end of the shoe. But they are not just for beginners. This species is preferred even among seasoned climbers on long, multi-length climbing routes where you don't take your shoes off your feet for hours.

Mild

This species is very versatile, balancing pleasantness, technique and sensitivity. The profile of these shoes is more curved, which gives the climber sensitivity and precision when working on small steps. At the same time, it is not bent enough to completely numb the climber's leg. They are good shoes for all kinds of climbing from gap, through bouldering and artificial wall to multi-length rock climbing. However, it is necessary to take into account that they assume at least a basic knowledge of climbing from those who wear the shoes, as they tend to be less permeable because they have thinner and softer rubber on the sole than the neutral type.

Aggressive

Aggressive shoes are very arched. The main stress here is placed on the heel and toe. Both parts of the foot are very tightly clamped in the shoe to ensure maximum sensitivity and grip on the rock. They are ideal shoes for working in overhangs and for working on small steps where precision is key. Unfortunately, this type of climbing shoes is also the least comfortable to wear, and is therefore used (almost exclusively) for single-length routes and indoor climbing.

Binding

Slip on

Slip-on climbers or slip-ons are shoes with an elastic neck. These are often very narrow shoes with a soft sole, which eliminates certain types of climbing. They are quicker to get into than lace-up shoes, but buying these shoes is complicated and involves trying on the shoes in a store. These climbing shoes are often made for bouldering, as they allow easy and quick putting on. However, their main negative is that they are not built for long journeys.

Velcro

Velcro climbing shoes are very common, and often used for bouldering or gym shoes. The zipper allows the shoes to be put on and taken off quickly. These are shoes made "for comfort" (as can only be done with climbing shoes).

Lace-up

Lace climbing shoes are the traditional option and also the strongest and most adaptable option that can be used. These shoes tend to be almost universal due to how often this binding is used. The laces will allow the climber to customize how tight the shoe will be, which will come in handy on different types of climbing. However, the biggest downside of this binding is how long it takes to get the shoe on and off (it can be very painful for new pairs).

Size

Shoe size is something that often worries climbers and ruins their days. But when answering the question "how to choose climbing shoes", size is something that must not be overlooked. Nevertheless, for this purpose, manufacturers have their size charts that tell you what size climbing frame you need with your foot. However, the sizes are different between manufacturers, so the tables also differ.

If you're starting out, we don't recommend taking climbing shoes smaller than one size (even that's a lot). We recommend that you move about half a size around your shoe size. Any more and you lose the feeling in your thumbs needed to effectively climb small steps. Less than half a size and you risk the shoe not fitting enough and being in pain every time you put it on.

With this we come to the fact that not every climbing frame will expand. Climbing shoes made of artificial leather and those with an aggressive profile adapt much less than those with Velcro and a neutral profile. So get advice from someone who really understands. Fellow climbers, workers at the local climbing wall or vendors are happy to help and share what they know. However, you need to try the climbing anyway.

Rubber / Sole

Climbing soles are something newbies don't really care about. But there is one main difference that is useful to know when choosing climbing shoes - the difference between soft and hard soles. Each one has different properties, is used for something else and also lasts a different amount of time.

Soft shoes are made for grip and for working on softer rocks (sandstone, limestone). That is why their rubbers tend to be thin and without added additives for increased durability. As a result, they also wear out faster and are very susceptible to poor climbing technique.

Harder shoes are for working on the smallest steps, as they have thick soles. The rubber on these climbers is enriched with additives to strengthen the rubber, which also gives them a longer life, making them a better choice for beginner climbers. But these shoes are very unsuitable for Czech sandstone!

If you are interested in more about soles and want to choose the right one, continue here, where we have a full article and comparison about differences in the soles of climbing shoes.

An ideal shoe for beginners

Now that you know in theory how to choose climbing shoes, it's time to look at the ideal pairs for beginner climbers. This is a very broad and challenging question. A lot of us were drawn to the first choice of Decathlon and their cheaper climbers, which seem to be quite adequate. But we have to say here - don't do it. After all, the first pair of shoes is a significant investment and there is a very high chance that you will climb on your first pair even as a seasoned climber. Therefore, look for really high-quality, albeit slightly more expensive, pairs that will last you, such as for example from the companies Ocún, La Sportiva or Scarpa.

Occun

A Czech company and an immortal heart for many climbers. Although Ocún really excels in making climbers for advanced and expert climbers, they have a few pairs for beginners that are really worth it. With its own series of rubbers Cat, Ocún is one of the best shoes, and also among the cheapest on the domestic market.

La Sportiva

La Sportiva is a brand that is equaled by few. Years of making climbing equipment have led to the fact that this company has several excellent climbers for beginners. We selected two pairs that arose from that amount.

Scarpa

Scarpa probably has the largest selection of climbing shoes for beginners on the market, but they are a bit more expensive. This is because their designs are precise and they use really good hard soles like this Vibram XS edge. If you are not afraid to pay extra to have this shoe for the rest of your climbing career, we have two tips for you.

Get inspired WARPem

Now you know how to choose climbing shoes and you are just deciding which of the many options to buy. Perhaps you will be comforted by the fact that even we at VARP have puzzled over this question several times. Lucky for you, we've already made enough mistakes when answering the question "how to choose climbing shoes" to be able to recommend our favorite pieces to you with a clear conscience.

Artificial wall

sion on an artificial wall, we can recommend Ocún Rebel QC. They are very good shoes for the plastic grips you find on climbing walls. Their slightly aggressive profile is good for performance, but also pleasant enough to spend more time in. These are shoes for slightly more advanced climbers who want to spend time on the artificial wall, both bouldering and difficulty climbing. But these shoes are not resistant to rock climbing either, and will definitely survive a trip to the rock. They are priced around CZK 1,700.

Sport climbing

How to choose climbing shoes for sport climbing, but also for the wall, you ask? The simple answer is Ocún Pearl Lu. The aggressive profile and narrow construction is ideal for climbing on small and sharp rock steps, but also on larger flat stones. The foot is very sensitive in the shoe, which is also helped by the lace binding of the climbing frame. Although it is a shoe that appears to be uncomfortable at first glance, it is not. The padded tongue and well-made lacing make it one of the most comfortable performance shoes on the market, and that's only for around 1,600 CZK.

Detailed work

Scarpa Instinct VS is our answer to how to choose climbing shoes for overhangs and micro steps. This aggressive and asymmetrical boot allows for great sensitivity and precision when climbing small holds or overhangs where maximum precision is needed. With a soft sole, it is a shoe suitable even for demanding sandstone paths, which are full of in Bohemia. However, it does assume that the climber is fit and knowledgeable, as the soft sole of this shoe is not forgiving of mistakes.

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