The basics of joint climbing

Joint climbing is one of the most notorious climbing techniques. It is very physically and technically demanding and requires a certain tolerance for pain and discomfort. It involves climbing over knuckles, clenched fists and crossed legs through cracks of various sizes in the rocks. For this type of climbing, climbers often wrap their hands with bandages or buy specially sewn joint gloves with a hard back of the hand to prevent skin injuries. Since the technique itself is extremely physically demanding, you need to master the basics of joint climbing and build on them.  

	Finger lock	Finger Lock
	Narrow screw	Thin hand
	Wide screw	Wide hand
	Frog	Hand jam
	Butterfly, two-frog	Butterfly stack
	Fist	Fist stack
	Frog-fist	Hand-fist stack
	Two fists	Double fist stack
	Key	Armbar
	Wing, Chicken wing	Chicken wings
	Falconer	Laybacking

Finger lock / Finger lock

Finger lock is used when the joint is too narrow for a frog or screw. This is usually the riskiest and most painful technique, as a significant body weight is placed only on the finger joints. So using the right technique is key.

When climbing a crack, the climber puts his fingers on top of each other. It starts with the index finger or little finger, the width of the fracture in the rock depends on the use of the correct technique. The task of a climber mastering this technique is to squeeze as many finger joints as possible into the grip. Grip strength is then determined by the number of "stronger" fingers involved. The thumb always remains out of the joint, it serves to stabilize and possibly strengthen the grip by external pressure. As with all joint techniques, elbow lock and torso stability are important components.

Thin, wide hand / Thin, wide hand

Screws are used when the joint is too wide for a finger lock, but at the same time too narrow to insert the entire palm. A screw is a stable hanging method of climbing. The aim of the climber is to insert as many joints as possible as deep as possible into the joint. Subsequent downward pressure tightens the grip. When practicing this grip, it is important that your center of gravity is directly under the stuck grip so that gravity holds you firmly in place. Once the weight is shifted perpendicular to or above the grip used, the grip loosens.

The difference between a narrow and a wide screw is found in the depth and position of the thumb. A narrow screw has a thumb outside the joint, often placed in a press against the wall. The wide variant has a thumb inside the joint. It is usually wide enough to fit most of the palm.

Frog / Hand jam

The jam, or frog, is the basic grip of joint climbing and the first one that people learn. The technique has three supporting points. The fingers that press against the wall of the joint, the joints that fix the technique in place, supported by the wrist, on which the whole structure rests. We insert the hand into the joint with the little finger first. We push the thumb into the palm so that it rests on it under the dorsal (first) joints of the fingers. We then hang onto the outstretched arms of the frog.

The "backbend" frog technique is an alternative to the frog. The technique remains the same. The difference is that this variant is planted thumb first over the head. The body is stretched into a "stretched bow" outside the path of the joint. It is important for the backbend to think about the high position of the elbow when putting the technique into the joint

Butterfly / Butterfly stack

The "butterfly" technique, or two frogs, is the combination of two frogs into one technique. This is used when the joint is too wide for a traditional frog or fist, but too narrow for wider techniques. When performing the butterfly, insert the hands back to each other into the joint. Ideally, the joints are locked together.

There are two ways to move the butterfly. Be it at the same time that both hands jerk up. The second variation of the shift is disconnecting the technique, and then locking it in the key position (lower in the list) allowing the shift upwards.

Fist / Fist stack

It is a very straightforward technique, but it is one of the most physically demanding. This is mainly because it exhausts the forearms the most and often involves the involved biceps and triceps. Place your hand in the joint and make a fist. The thumb will be used as a support on the side of the hand, resting on the index finger. The fist can be rotated, according to the current need and the width of the joint. Lean the joints of the back against the wall of the joint and then you have two options. Turn your fist horizontally thumb down or horizontally thumb up.

Frog-fist / Hand-fist stack

A combination of fist and frog is a variant used when butterfly is no longer an option. In this variant, the frog is resting on a fist, which is usually in a position with the thumb down. Moving this hold is the same as the double frog. This technique is simple to understand and implement, but it is not banal. It involves a lot of strength and the art of using the legs correctly.

Double fist stack

The combination of two fists is another of the straightforward techniques. It is "only" a substitution of one frog for another fist. It is a variant that is used in a slightly wider joint than the frog-fist. Practically only two factors play a role. These are the gap width and the climber's preference. The key is to strengthen both fists and body.

Key / Armbar

Key climbing is the second most physically demanding climbing technique. This is mainly due to the massive involvement of the hand and shoulder muscles. Technically, it is a denial of the body on two points. The farthest is the palm that presses against the wall of the joint. The second is the elbow, which serves as an anchor for the technique. The vast majority of climbers do not use this technique to climb entire routes, but mainly to transition between individual techniques.

Wing / Chicken wing

Chicken wing is used in corner parts of joints or large spaces. The climber fits as much of his body as he can into the gap and falls over the palm and shoulder or elbow. It is a method of climbing that is used for resting as well as for broad climbing. The wing is not a good grip for moving up. For its effective use, it is necessary to clench the whole hand, which practically paralyzes it. But it is an excellent hold for resting, locking the belay or transitioning to another hold.

Falcon / Laybacking

Laybacking, aka falconry, is often claimed to be the most physically difficult, but also the fastest technique in climbing. The climber holds onto the rock by exerting opposing pressure on the wall. The whole body is directed in the same way, the arms pull and the legs push. The upward progression is relatively "easy". By alternating hand-foot movements, the climber practically goes up the rock.
The grip is under constant pressure, which the climber has to exert in order to stay on the wall. That's why physics is essential.

How about the legs?

Of course, the basics of joint climbing also include good foot position. There are 2 main techniques here.

The first is the "classic" leg lock inside the leg. Here, the climber puts about a third of the foot into the joint (starting with the toe) so that the foot is parallel to the joint itself. The knee is turned outward during this movement. Subsequently, the foot is stabilized by turning the foot to the left in the case of the right foot, and vice versa in the case of the right. This is a movement of the entire leg, including the knee, which will result in the climber holding onto the lateral joints of the feet. If the joint is narrow, this lock can only be done with a tip.

The other option is to have your feet out of joint and lean on other stupas on the rock. This is especially preferred for lines that are very narrow and crawl over the fingers. Here the legs are used in the same way as in any other type of climbing.

Finally

Jointing technique is often tricky. No article or video, no matter how good, can replace the experience of muscle memory. So go climbing! For now, go out and soon maybe go to the gyms and gain experience. Don't forget to warm up and prepare thoroughly before each climb. There are few things worse for a climber than an unnecessary finger injury or tendonitis. Think about your center of gravity and go to work.

A hard sole is ideal for rock climbing. look at types of climbing soles here.

If you are interested in the technique of joint climbing, we recommend watching the YouTube channel of the best joint climbers - WideBoyz: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjq6e7k_pkOkrBD2Qieqxnw