Brenta - Lower wall

Routes, Wild Sárka, Sport climbing, Traditional climbing

Number of trips: 7
Height: 25m (18m)
Rock: Buližník
Trip Type: Vertical / Overhanging
GPS: 50.0994268N, 14.3216307E
public transport: Divoká Šárka bus and tram stop, Jenerálka and School Nebušice bus stops
Parking: At McDonald's, Vlastina Street, Nebušice, Ke Skalám Street, parking lot at Restaurant Jenerálka

Brenta - Spodní stěna - is by all accounts a small, dominantly traditional climbing sector in Divoká Šárka. It is the first of three sectors that make up the gradual ascent to the rock. The lower wall is the first of this area. You will find a total of 7 climbing lines here. Five of them are exclusively for traditional hedging. These routes end at the beginning of the second climbing sector, in the middle of the rock. Apart from these five, there is also one pure sports car and one semi-sport car. Unfortunately, the unlocked route is already difficult enough for most climbers. So it's not a sector where you can just go and crawl. We do not recommend trying to deploy a fish (top rope) in this sector. First, it's dangerous, and second, it destroys the rock. This sector is thus completely reserved for traditional climbers and seasoned athletes.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing.

Wild Sárka; Brenta - Lower wall

Brenta - Lower wall

GPS: 50.0994268N, 14.3216307E
Matriculation (1)

3c (IV)

The line runs along the left side of the rock beyond the edge, in a small notch. The climber climbs to the edge, which he follows up to a small inclined plate. After that, it goes diagonally to the right to the saddle below the "Middle Lift" sector. The perplexity here is the birch, towards which the climber turns.

Length: 25 m
Insurance: traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1968

Wet gutter (2)

4c (IN)

The second line from the left leads through a steep gully between the edge and the wall. The entrance is marked with an arrow. At the end of the chute, it turns to the right and follows the steep blocks under the "Middle Rise".

Length: 25 m
Insurance: traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1968

Normal girl (3)

2+ (III)

Access to the line is indicated by an arrow under the overhang. The line leads along the walls to the stand, where it joins paths No. 1 and 2 and reaches the end.

Length: 25 m
Insurance: traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1988

Roof (4)

5c (VI)

The Roof path, marked by an arrow, leads around the corner under the overhang, in which the climber secures himself on a staple. It then continues over the edge to the stand and connects to the previous paths it reached.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 1 bolt + traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1968

Old crochet hook (5)

7b (VIII+)

The hardest line of the sector, Stará hakovačka starts on the inclined wall below the overhang. It follows up, after three bolts over the overhang to abseil to the stand.

Length: 18m
Insurance: 3 borháks + slanák
Author:Unknown, before 1994

Kutt's Corner (6)

5c (VI)

The line runs along the wall to the right of the overhang, marked by an arrow. The climber climbs up the ridge to the "Middle Rise" through the blocks. 

Length: 20 m
Insurance: traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1980

Right of way (7)

2 (II)

The easiest path of the sector, Pravovina, leads through the middle of the right wall to the edge. After that, the climber continues upwards and joins route No. 6, which he reaches.

Length: 25 m
Insurance: traditional
Author:Unfazed

loader-image
Prague
07:11, 22.12.2024
temperature icon 6°C
almost clear
Humidity 82 %
Wind 37 Km/h
Wind Gust: 39 Km/h
Visibility: 10 km
Sunrise: 07:59
Sunset: 16:02
Weather from OpenWeatherMap

Access

The Brenta sector – the lower wall can be reached, as is traditional in Šárka – in three main ways. All options are pretty much the same, since Brenta is at a crossroads. So it just depends on where you plan to park.
Way through Divoka Šárka leads along the asphalt road towards the U Veselíka swimming pool and the sectors in the middle of Šárka. From the General the same asphalt road leads, only from the other side. You walk around like that Zeda and Pants. From Nebušice, a winding road stretches around Prospects and connects to the aforementioned asphalt road near the swimming pool. Brenta is hiding in the forest on the right bank of the stream, a few tens of meters from the asphalt road, between Inn Dívčí skok and U Veselíka swimming pool.

public transport:
Bus: stop Divoká Šárka, School Nebušice and Jenerálka
Tram: final station, Divoká Šárka

Parking:
From Nebušice: Street Nad Želivkou, Pod Hájovnou, K Šárce
On Jeneráleka: Street in Skály, parking lot at Restaurant Jenerálka
From Prague 6: McDonalds parking lot (best early in the morning), Nová Šárka street, Vlastina