Zedkov's Blocks - Divoká Šárka

Routes, Sport climbing, Traditional climbing

Number of trips: 9 + 1
Height: 15 m
Rock: Buližník
Type of Journey: Vertical
GPS: 50.1019722N, 14.3228611E
public transport: Divoká Šárka bus and tram stop, Jenerálka and School Nebušice bus stops
Parking: At McDonald's, Vlastina Street, Nebušice, Ke Skalám Street, parking lot at Restaurant Jenerálka
Pdf guide: here

Zedkov blocks are one of the most accessible climbing sectors inside Divoká Šárka. The blocks are very easily accessible from the road, a few tens of meters from the Devil's Mill. The climbing here is dominantly traditional, with only one sport belayed route. The sector is composed of two rocks adjacent to the Nebušická viewpoint. Unlike many sectors in Prague, such as Small hot plate or Pine rock, it is not possible to deploy toprope from the top of the rock on the Zedkov blocks. Since it is the Divoká Šárka reserve, it is forbidden to go off-road and destroy nature. Trying to deploy belay from the top leads to both of these things. That is why it is necessary to have your own traditional belaying - wedges or friends - to secure in the joints of the rock. The massif itself is quite dirty and overgrown with moss, which is due to the humidity of the sector and the fact that it is rarely climbed.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing.

Zedkovy bloky - lezecka oblast vyznacene cesty. Praha horolezeni a nepoznana divoka sarka
Zedkov block

Zedka blocks

GPS: 50.1019722N, 14.3228611E
Corner at three overhangs (1)

2+ (III)

The first road of the sector is traditionally all unlocked. It leads in a logical corner on the left side of the left wall. The line is not the hardest, but it can be treacherous. Insurance is all traditional.

Length: 12m
Insurance: traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1986

Three overhangs (2)

4c (IN)

Like the previous path, this one is also very straightforward. Marked by an arrow on the stone, it leads straight up over three small overhangs. The road is overgrown with moss and dirty. It is unlocked, just like route No. 1, traditionally.

Length: 12m
Insurance: traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1986

Overhang (3)

5c (VI)

The path starts at the vertical wall to the left of the memorial plaque. From there, it continues to the left under an overhang in a triangular wall, where the climber secures himself in the borhák. Here it continues straight up over an overhang, a smaller wall up to rappelling.

Length: 18m
Insurance: 2 rivets + Traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1986

Drill (4)

6b+ (VIII)

The drill runs along the vertical wall between the memorial plaque and the Převis road. It climbs straight up, locking into two rivets. The vertical wall is followed by a small balcony and a smaller wall for abseiling. In the second wall, it is necessary to secure yourself with your own protection.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 3 rivets + Traditional
Author:Tučka, Petrašovský, 2011

Zedka joint (5)

5b (VI-)

The path leads through a corner gap to the left of the memorial plaque. The first belay is relatively high up on the path covered with moss, here you need to secure yourself with your own belay. In addition, there are two borháks in the way, one at 7 meters and the other in the overhang, over which the climber can reach the abseil.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 2 borháks + Traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1968

Zedka joint variant (5.1)

4c (IN)

This route is a variant of the Zedka joint, but it is climbed without the final overhang. The climber bypasses it via the balcony of the Vrták road and reaches the abseil.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 1 borhák + Traditional
Author:Unknown, before 1968

In the middle (6)

5c (VI)

The last road to the left of the plaque. Route No. 8 leads directly through the middle of the rock below the abseiling. The climber climbs up and secures himself with the help of the smallest wedges and friends and one bollard.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 1 borhák + Traditional
Author:Tučka, Kulajta, 2011

In the middle (7)

4c (IN)

Path to the right of the board without a fixed belay. The climber must use (roughly 4) small wedges or friends. Here, the line leads along a small, almost finger-like gap, over an overhang to abseil.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: Traditional
Author:Tučka, Kulajta, 2011

Corner (8)

2 (II)

A line leading through a large corner in the right part of the rock massif. It is necessary to use traditional protection here. The climber goes up the corner to the balcony, where he then turns left and descends to the abseil.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: Traditional
Author:Unknown

four (9)

2 (II)

This line is the last and at the same time the shortest route of the sector. As with the previous one, there is no fixed security here either. It is a short journey along good holds to the abseiling itself at the top.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: Traditional
Author: Filip Zaoral, 13/11/2013

Lezecký průvodce je takédostupný v pdf formatu na portálu Patreon.com. TOPO průvodce pražskými lezeckými oblastmi
loader-image
Prague
07:01, 19.04.2024
temperature icon 4°C
clearly
Humidity 81 %
Wind 22 Km/h
Wind Gust: 0 Km/h
Visibility: 0 km
Sunrise: 06:00
Sunset: 20:01
Weather from OpenWeatherMap
📑PDF

Access

There are three main ways to get to the Zedkov Blocks sector. The first and longest arrival route is through Divoka Šárka. For this route, use public transport at the Divoká Šárka stop and descend into the valley around McDonald (the same route as for Highball sector). From there, an asphalt path leads along the stream, past the swimming pool and the Dívčí skok inn to the sector.

The second arrival the road leads from Nebušice. You need to get to the Nebušická viewpoint and go down the winding dirt road along the left side of the rocks to the valley. This way you will find yourself right next to the sector. last arrival route, the one from the General, which is served by buses from Dejvice and Borislavka. From here you will go to the Croatian mill and from there follow the asphalt path forward. If you don't turn from it (you pass the bouldering sector of the Devil's leg) you will reach the Zedkov blocks.

public transport:
Bus: stop Divoká Šárka, School Nebušice and Jenerálka
Tram: final station, Divoká Šárka

Parking:
From Nebušice: Street Nad Želivkou, Pod Hájovnou, K Šárce
From Jenerálka: Street in Skály, parking lot at Restaurant Jenerálka
From Prague 6: McDonalds parking lot (best early in the morning), Nová Šárka street, Vlastina

🚀 Comments