Divoká Sárka: Green circuit (V1-V2)

May 19, 2023 VARP team Boulder, Routes, Wild Sárka, Inspiration

The green circuit is a route connecting boulder problems - difficulties V1-V2 – sectors Wild Sárky into one route. The length of the main route is 4.2 km, the entire circuit is just under 7 km. The paths between the sectors are good and mapped. Landings are good and safe. One boulder mat is enough for the vast majority of sectors here. The exception is the Highball sector.

As can be seen from the number of sectors, the green circle contains almost everything that Divoká Šárka has to offer. Within this circuit (and article), we have selected only the better routes. A total of 97 lines can be found in this category. This TOPO only offers slightly under 50 routes. If you would like to climb everything, the TOPO on the sectors are lined up throughout the article. Along with that, for the sectors that are larger, we have indicated how many routes you will find here in the V1-V2 category.

Pdf guide: here
Fyzický průvodce: here

Sector	Number of rocks	Number of trips	GPS
Highball	1	1	GPS: 50.0942583N, 14.3213903E
Jug Gorge	2	5	50.0948611N, 14.3205000E
The right slope of the gorge	2	3	50.095202N, 14.322290E
Devil's pants	2	5	50.1020191N, 14.3265953E
The last rock	2	4	50.1002789N, 14.3275716E
BOOMerang	1	2	50.0986603N, 14.3249181E
Under Nebušice	5	12	50.1039565N, 14.3309372E
Arrhythmia	4	9	50.1040310N, 14.3379309E
Nebušicky viewpoint	3	4	50.103576N, 14.321442E
The lost massif	1	4	50.1024573N, 14.3205928E

Green circuit, V1-V2

Highball

Highball is the highest sector of Šárka and it is necessary to approach it anyway. Dolez is up to 8 meters high, so caution and catchers are advised. The green circuit here has only one line. The sector is in the sun and the most accessible of all the sectors on this circuit (just over 400 m from the Divoká Šárka station). The rock faces south and dries quickly. However, the top is permanently covered with moss.

Total are in the sector 3 ways V1-V2.

Highball, Divoká Sárka, boudering, VARP

Highball Pitcher

GPS: 50.0942583N, 14.3213903E

Purring Smurf (1.1)

6C+ (V5)

Start from sitting on the right bar and mini shelf. The climber follows the first part of the Navel-headed Bafunář problem, which is then extended by a traverse to the left to the last rail. Climbing over the plate.

Line length: 8m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Kulajta, 2011

Belly Puffer (1)

6A (V3)

The problem is from sitting just like the Funcící Bafunář (slats and mini-shelves). From it, the climber traverses diagonally to the left under the "navel" of the boulder, through which he climbs to the top to the climb. There is a tree stump hidden in the grass below the line, which should be covered by the mother before climbing.

Line length: 6m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Slide (2)

3 (VB)

The slide is the easiest line on the highball Jug, where the main difficulty is to overcome the height of the climb. Here, the climber starts between the overhangs and climbs up the corner to the top.

Line length: 7m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Libor Tvrdík, 2011

Graceful curves (3)

6B+ (V4)

The entrance is on the left under the overhang, from where the line leads upwards. After the overhang, it turns right and follows over the second (smaller) overhang to the top.

Line length: 8m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Kulajta, 2011

Stroh - project

— —

Unfortunately, as a VARP team, we don't know if the project is open or not. But within the framework of climbing ethics, we consider it closed. If you are the author of this line, write to the editorial office and we will add your information!

Line length: 6m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: —

Chicken Rib (5)

6A (V3)

The path begins on the right side of the large overhang. The climber overcomes the overhang and tops, but this is all without any use of holds and steps on the rock to the right.

Line length: 7m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Kulajta, 2011

Thorny Claw (6)

4+ (V0)

The line runs from standing between the main overhang and the right rock wall. The climber walks along the edge to the top of the precipice. Boulder has a sitting variant, rated V3 (6A+). Here, the climber starts sitting on the rock with his feet together.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Kulajta, 2011

From the Cave (7)

5+ (V2)

This is the last line on the highball Jug. It leads along the right edge of the small cave on the right. The climber can get from the cave to the top in a direct and logical line. It is forbidden to use the wall on the right when climbing.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Tučka, 2011

The slope near Džbán

The right slope of the Džbán gorge is a small sector on the side of Kozák rock. The green circuit here has 3 routes on two small rocks. The stones are not covered from the sun. In the summer it is very difficult to climb here, due to the hot sun and tall grass (watch out for ticks). The sector is only a few hundred meters from McDonald's, a few tens from the Highball and Soutěska Džbán sectors. However, consider supporting the swimming pool and Inn inside Šárka.

The first wall

GPS: 50.095202N, 14.322290E

Come on! (1)

3 (Vb)

From good holds to the left under the edge, the climber goes up from a standing position. Both the wall and the left edge can be used here.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author:Unknown

Rincewind (2)

5 (V1)

The path begins in a prominent hole in the middle of the rock. From that one traverses to the left, where the climber connects to route No. 1, which leads to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author:Unknown

Petal (3)

5+ (V2)

The start is from the same prominent hole as the previous boulder, but from a sitting position. From there, the climber goes over the edge to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author:Unknown

Second wall

GPS: 50.0953588N, 14.3224146E

Beware of flowers (1)

6A (V3)

The longest path in the area, Pay attention to the flowers, is a traverse from the left shelf to the "Sárecká pohoda" path, which the climber can take to the top. The top edge must not be used on the way and damage the flowers.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author:Filip Zaoral, 2013

Flower Hugger (1.1)

6A+ (V3)

This path is mostly the same as its original. However, it is extended by a meter. The same restrictions apply here as for the previous trip.

Line length: 6 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author:Filip Zaoral, 2013

Soccer well-being (2)

5 (V1)

The path leads through the highest point of the wall. The climber starts from a standing position and goes straight to the top. The left edge may be taken, but the climber must not reach over it with the center of gravity.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author:Unknown

Jug Gorge

Jug Gorge there are two rockeries along the main tourist route, along which the green circuit runs. The sector is sheltered from the sun by the shadows of the gorge. Along with that, it is cooled by a stream that flows right next to the rocks. You can climb here even in summer. However, the downside is a lot of exposure to the public. The Džbán gorge is very easily accessible within the green sector. In total, on two rocks with good landings - one boulder mat is enough - you will find 5 routes in difficulty V1-V2.

Behind the water

Behind the Water

GPS: 50.0949931N, 14.3198828E

You have to go shirtless (1)

5+/6A (V2/V3)

The first boulder of the sector starts from a larger pocket at the left edge of the rock. From there, the climber goes along the edge (without using it) to the mossy top, where he jumps off.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kanát, 2023

Pillow Landing (2)

5+ (V2)

The line starts from two pockets in the overhang. From those, the climber goes along the edge and up to the top at a small crack. Do not take the stone with "X", it is not stable!

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kanát, 2023

One hundred percent Bumbac (3)

5 (V1)

Bouldering starts in a small plate under an overhang, from a squat. From there, the climber continues to the overhang and over it straight up to the top near the joint. Don't get caught with the "X" here either!

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Linhart, 2023

Jumper's Traverse (4)

5+ (V2)

The traverse starts at the right end of the rock. From there, the climber goes to the left, over the edge and ends up behind the left edge of the rock. Good holds must not be taken over the edge and overhang.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kulhanek, 2023

Nineteen

GPS: 50.0948611N, 14.3205000E

jump in (1)

4+ (V0)

The only dynamic path of the sector. You start your jump from a standing position on a large edge. From there, the climber jumps to the edge or hold in one dynamic movement, from which he then tops out on the shelf. The road has no left wall.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kulhanek, 2022

Captain Hook (2)

5+ (V2)

The beginning of the boulder is hanging from the heel on a small shelf and with the hands on the bottom edge. The climber continues along the edge to its end, from where, with the help of a small edge, he tops out on a slippery shelf. The pre-rock and both inner edges of the rock are prohibited here.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kulhanek, 2022

Mr. Smee (2.1)

6A (V3)

It is an extension of the Captain Hook line. The climber starts with the left hand on the rounded edge and the right hand on the sharp bar. From there, the climber traverses to the right, over the edge of the rock to the entrance to the Kapitán Hák line, which he can reach. The line is without pre-rock.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Kulhanek, 2022

Admiral Paw (3)

5 (V1)

BOOMerang

BOOMerang is a north-facing rock at the top of the opposite end of the valley (opposite the Devil's Legs). There are two paths within the green circle. Although the landing site is relatively good, it may be useful to take a small one sitpad to cover protruding stones. The sector is covered and you can comfortably climb here in the summer. The rock is at the top of the massif, so it is the farthest from the "fulcrums". The Inn is almost a kilometer away, as is MC Donald's on the opposite side of Šárka (but it is uphill, so support the Inn!).

Bommerang

BOOMerang

GPS: 50.0986603N, 14.3249181E

Lactose (1)

6B+ (V4)

The first boulder of the BOOMerang sector, Laktos is very straightforward. It starts in sharp holes. From these, the climber must get straight up through the middle of the wall to the climb. The edge and the handle on the left under the gutter are prohibited.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Jan Mastík, 2011

Lactose reverse (2)

7A+ (V7)

The beginning of the problem is the same as the previous one. Here, however, it is about encircling the entire rock without the use of pre-rocks and any treading outside the main massif.

Line length: 7m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Kerosene Prince (3)

6B+ (V4)

Boulder is from sitting from side pulls. It follows through a series of ledges to a hatch. It is important here to be careful of the rocks around the main line. It is ideal to cover or have catchers.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Jan Mastík, 2011

Mc Sokol (4)

5 (V1)

The line leading through the joint is very clear. Here you start from a sitting position and then continue with a joint to climb. The right edge of the rock or any of the pre-rocks may not be used here.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Alena Grasserova, 2021

Return of the Purple Kangaroo (5)

7A (V6)

This is the second of the traverses in this sector. It starts from a seat at the right edge and leads to the left until it joins the path No. 1 Laktos. After that, he reaches the exit.

Line length: 6m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Honza Mastík, 2011

Boomerang

BOOMerang

GPS: 50.0986603N, 14.3249181E

Lactose reverse (2)

7A+ (V7)

Blade (6)

5 (V1)

A short overhang path, the Blade starts from the holds below the arrow and then leads straight up over the overhang and a sharp edge to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Charinga (7)

6B (V4)

The last route of the sector, Čaringa starts from a sitting position from good holds. It then continues slightly diagonally to the left to the center of the wall, where it connects to a long stretch (dyno if you are small) to the upper edge. Boulder is without the left edge of the holds on the left. Due to the nature of the problem, it is better to have catchers.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Jan Mastík, 2011

The last rock

The last rock is one of the larger Šárecké sectors, on the green belt. There are 4 circuit paths on the two rocks here. The rocks are of mixed orientation and not much sheltered from the sun. You can climb here in the summer, but only with enough water. The landing site is small but good, one boulder mat is enough. We recommend more caution at the last viewpoint. The climbing here is about 800 m away from the inn, which is a rescue point.

Total is in the sector 8 ways V1-V2.

The last prospect

GPS: 50.1002619N, 14.3269963E

Athletes in action (1)

5+ (V2)

The ascent to the boulder is from a crouch on a mini-rock, on the right under the overhang. The climber has both hands on a small shelf. The line leads along the edge of the left corner and before the overhang to the top. The path is without steps and without climbing over the edge.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Wedge Levite (2)

6B (V4)

Boulder is from sitting with your feet in the wall. The hands are on small slats by the shelf. From there, the progression is walled as with the "mother" line

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Bun

GPS: 50.1002789N, 14.3275716E

Flint (1)

5+ (V2)

The start of the boulder is from a sitting position, with the right hand on the edge and on a good bar. From the seat, the climber continues to the left up to the climb. Not a single stone outside the main massif may be used. Watch out for rear impact, catcher recommended.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Forgotten Beauty (2)

6A+ (V3)

Boulder is from a seated position, with his hands under the arrow. The climber goes straight up the middle wall. Round holds may be used here behind the right edge, but may not be climbed over any edge.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Zbyněk Pražák, 2012

Ticks (3)

6A (V3)

This boulder is an extension of route no.1. Access to it is from the Pro Eliška route (variant from the seat). From there, the climber traverses to the right to the Pazourek path, which reaches the top.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Bun

GPS: 50.1002789N, 14.3275716E

For Eliška (4)

5 (V1)

Boulder from a sitting position from good holds to the right and on the edge. The climber then continues slightly to the right and onto the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Tai Chi Traverse (5)

4 (V0)

The path begins on a good, sloping handrail. From there, the climber traverses to the right to the end of the rock, where he reaches the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Ant (6)

5A (V1)

An ant is a path that is entered from a long ledge at the bottom of the rock. Taller climbers will be able to start the route from a sitting position. Subsequently, it continues straight up over the rounded edge of the peak.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Caterpillar (7)

2 (VB-)

The caterpillar is the shortest and lightest line of the sector. The climber climbs on the broken part of the rock on the right and climbs straight up to the exit. Rock blocks other than the main rock may not be used when climbing.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Arrhythmia

The green circle connects with Arithm on four rocks, on which you will find a total of 9 routes between V1-V2. One boulder mat is enough for all routes here. The landing sites are good and level, just be careful when moving on Horní Štand. The sector is in the sun and abundantly sheltered from the wind. The rocks face west and dry out quickly. Unfortunately, there is no access to water. We recommend bringing plenty of your own. There is a restaurant nearby Chestnut – 1 km.

Total is in the sector 20 ways V1-V2.

Cake

GPS: 50.1040310N, 14.3379309E

Superman (1)

6A (V3)

The ascent to the boulder is, unusually, from the start to a high handrail. From there, you can go directly to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

ET (2)

7A+ (V7)

The ascent is under the arrow without pre-climbing. Then to the left over a prominent rail to the handrail and a gap to the exit.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

From Film to Film (3)

7B (V8)

Ascent from under the arrows without pre-climbing. Via the lateral pulls, the traverse reaches the ET path and the way to the climb. The line is without the big shelf and backhand of the ET route.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Jonda, 2021

UFOs (4)

5+ (V2)

The ascent is from the rock 1.5m before the wall (dots). Then jump to the right handrail in the wall and onto the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Clark Kent SD (5)

6C (V5)

By lifting from under the arrows and up to the path Klárk Kent and to the climb. The path is without a handrail in the gap and stones around.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Clark Kent (5.1)

5+ (V2)

Ascent from two holds under the arrow and without steps to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Shodo (6)

3 (VB)

Climbing from a seat with rails and then up to a climb. The line is without a left rock.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Nehasil, 2021

Bun (7)

4 (V0)

Start as Šódo and up over the shelf and edge to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Nehasil, 2021

Dumplings (8)

4+ (V0+)

The same start, but traverse to the right over the edge and onto the climb. Only grips under the shelf are allowed.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Nehasil, 2021

Jello (10)

5+ (V2)

Ascent from lying down under the arrow and directly to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2021

Dessert

Second dessert

GPS: 50.1040383N, 14.3379553E

pastry chef (1)

5 (V1)

The line starts from sitting on the hot plate. From this, the climber rises and goes slightly to the right to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Mason (2)

5 (V1)

Ascent from a seat and then straight up over the edge to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Skalky below Nebušice

As many know Skalky below Nebušice are the largest sector in Šárka. It is therefore not surprising that the green circle is the most represented here. There are a total of 12 routes on 5 rockeries. One boulder mat should be enough for the area. Ticks are problematic in the rock gardens of the green sector. We therefore recommend a repellent. The rocks are oriented to the south, but they are covered by forest, which allows climbing even in summer. But they dry a little slower. There is no running water here, but there is Šárecký stream under the slope. Albert is in Nebušice 1 km on foot, you can stock up on water and food here.

Total is in the sector 23 ways V1-V2.

Toothy

GPS: 50.1041421N, 14.3309196E

Glumus (1)

5 (V1)

From sitting at the edge under the overhang and straight up to the plate and to the exit. Watch out for the rock behind you. without stepping on yourself.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Gollum seated (2)

5 (V1)

The climber goes from sitting on the edge, feet are in the wall. Traverse to the right and over the edge to the climb. Without a mini step at the entrance.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Gollum Standing (3)

3 (VB)

From standing at the edge and over it straight to the top.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Gollum Standing SD (3.1)

6B (V4)

From sitting in the middle of the wall and into the path of Gollum standing, that way to the top. No left edge. The initial rails of the original path are broken off, now the line is lighter.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Semtex (4)

6B+ (V4)

Traverse to the left, start in the joint, to the plate and to the climb. The line is edgeless.

Line length: 7m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Avengers

GPS: 50.1035711N, 14.3308788E

Natasha (1)

6B (V4)

From the seat, from the handrail and along the left edge to the exit.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Hulk (2)

6C+ (V5)

Start like Natasha, but jump from the right to the top and climb out.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Thor's Hammer (3)

7C (V9)

Ascent from a sitting position from marked grips to a small handrail. Then traverse to the left to the Hulk line and then to the climb. The line is without a good decent edge and holds around the joint.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Ninos (4)

7C (V9)

Boarding as on the previous trip. From the handrail, along the wall to the left to the exit. The line is without a good edge and holds around the seam.
Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Jarvis (5)

6B (V4)

Climbing from a sitting position from the handrail and then up a small corner and along the ledges to the exit. The line has no right and top edges.
Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Fabrizio, Majdloch, 2020

Ghost Rider (6)

6C+ (V5)

Getting up from a sitting position from the handrail and up. Then a small traverse to the left to the Ninos road and the one to the climb.
Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2017

Wasps (7)

5A (V1)

From a seat like no. 6 and after holding onto the pillar to the climb. No right edge.
Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Harbor

GPS: 50.1045106N, 14.3317924E

Kong (1)

5+ (V2)

Ascent from a seat from a sloper and traverse to the left.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Krov, 2023

Long or short (2)

5 (V1)

Start as the previous route and straight up to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: David Zuza, 2023

King Kong (3)

6B (V4)

From the handles, from the seat. After lifting, a logical traverse to the left to the edge and the one to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Krov, 2023

Julča (4)

6A (V3)

From the seat, from the handrails and along the edge to the climb. Without left pates and rolling into the plate.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Radek Záveský, 2021

Black mirror (5)

5 (V1)

The start is like Julča, but the climber rolls into the slab, which he reaches for the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Tomáš Kozohorský, 2021

white widow (6)

5+ (V2)

The ascent is from the seat under the arrow and along the edge to the left to the climb. Do not use the left pre-rock and do not roll into the plate.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Zdráhal, Blazek, 2021

Close the claw (7)

5 (V1)

From the handles from a seat under the arrow and up to the last handle.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Rosová, Záveský, 2021

StarWars

Star Wars

GPS: 50.1042243N, 14.3317526E

R2D2 (1)

5+ (V2)

Ascent from a sitting position with the left hand on the bar at the left edge and the right hand on the side pull. Then over the left edge and onto the exit. Having to slip around the tree.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2018

To the Stars (2)

6A+ (V3)

Start as R2D2, over the edge and rails of the Last Jedi path to the Bow path and the climb. No good grab bars at the top.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2018

The Last Jedi (3)

7A+ (V7)

With the left hand in the crotch and the right hand on the marked bar, from a sitting position. Then straight up to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Cermak, 2017

Bow (4)

6C (V5)

From the slats from the seat and straight up to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Cermak, 2017

The Rise of Skywalker (5)

6A (V3)

The line is a traverse from the right part of the rock to the left. It starts from the bar and ends in a good handrail. The line is without upper edges and handles.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Radek Záveský, 2021

Vane

GPS: 50.1047505N, 14.3318808E

So far in 5 (1)

5 (V1)

The line is from the seat and then directly to the exit.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Anna Vrbová, 2021

So far in 3 (2)

3 (VB)

From under the arrows to directly to the exit.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Anna Vrbová, 2021

Light Breeze (3)

5+ (V2)

Climbing from a seat from under the arrows and climbing.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2021

Devil's pants

The green circle hosts on Pants 5 routes on two rocks. One boulder mat is enough for all lines here. The rocks are south-facing and covered under trees. But the sector belongs to the wetter ones and dries slowly. Skály is a short distance from the main tourist route in Divoká Šárka and a short distance from the flowing water of the Šárecký stream. You can climb even in summer. It is within 1 km from the sector U Veselík swimming pool and Inn Dívčí Skok (support them).

Total is in the sector 6 ways V1-V2.

Sticks

Devil's stick

GPS: 50.1020191N, 14.3265953E

Feeder (1)

V+ (V2)

The problem is starting from a standing position with your feet on the main massif (without the use of pre-rocks). The problem runs up along the edge to a notch about half a meter from the top. In the notch, the climber gets over the edge and reaches the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

ozone hole (2)

7B (V8)

The start of the problem is from standing under the left edge. The problem leads to the right, through a hole in the rock and then diagonally to the right to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Lukáš Jurča, 2020

Wormhole Escape (3)

6A+ (V3)

Bouldering begins with one hand in the hole and the other hand perpendicularly below it. The path is a traverse to the left up to path No. 1 and the one to the climb. The path is without stepping stones and without precipice.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Rose or leather (4)

6C+ (V5)

This problem starts (also) from the hole in the middle of the rock. From there it leads (without steps) diagonally to the left and to a climb. Part of the boulder is a jump to the hold on the left side of the rock.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Pavel Payne, 2011

A Walk Through Thorns (5)

6B+ (V4)

Here, the climber starts again with his hand in the middle hole while his other hand is on the bottom right rail. The entire path is without stepping stones and without precipice. It traverses to the right to the edge, over which the boulder is climbed. Feet must not go over the edge of the rock.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Rose or Leather SD (6)

7A+/7B (V7/V8)

The journey begins with a sitting start. The climber starts on the bar and in the side pull in the gap. Subsequently, it continues to the left through small holes to route No. 4, which the climber can reach to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Cermak, 2011

Passing through the Wormhole (7)

7A+ (V7)

The path starts from a seat on the right side of the stone (the start is the same as the previous problem). The whole problem is the connection of roads No. 6, No. 3 and No. 1. until the exit.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2017

Ozone (8)

7C (V9)

Ozone starts from a sitting position, similar to the previous 2 routes. The difference is that the hole in the middle of the rock must not be used. The path is quite straight and leads straight up to the climb. Neither of the edges may be used for climbing.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Stay Under the Edge (9)

5 (V1)

The last route of the sector and also one of the easiest. The start is from a standing position with hands in the curves and bars behind the right edge. The path skirts the edge all the way to the exit. The climber should not get his center of gravity over the edge, but he is allowed to putt himself over the edge.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Boulder has a sitting variant that rises to V1/V2 (5+)

Sticks

Devil's stick

GPS: 50.1020191N, 14.3265953E

A Walk Through Thorns (5)

6B+ (V4)

Stay Under the Edge (9)

5 (V1)

Moss Purgatory (10)

3 (VB-)

A straight path leading up the slab on the right side of the stone. The path is overgrown with moss and must be cleared first.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Nebušicky viewpoint

Nebušicky viewpoint is a well-known bouldering sector in Divoká Šárka. The green sector here has a stop on three stones on which there are 4 climbing lines. The sector is at the top of the Nebušická lookout point. It is not sheltered from the sun and climbing here in the summer is very steamy and unpleasant. But the landings are good - and stony, so ticks are not a problem - and one boulder mat is enough here. The sector is roughly 1.3 km away from Alber Nebušice, where you can stock up. Closer is the Hostinec - 800 m - which we recommend.

Total is in the sector 9 ways V1-V2.

Nebušicky viewpoint

View

GPS: 50.1034792N, 14.3216442E

Jean-Luc (1)

5 (V1)

The start is with the left hand from the pocket in the middle of the rock and the right hand on the edge, feet on the front rock. From here, the climber climbs over the overhang to the top. Both the right and left edges may be used, but the left rock is not.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Patrik Smet, 2022

Doesn't seem (2)

4 (V0)

From standing from the left edge and a small unpleasant rail to the right in the gutter. Then straight up to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kulhanek, 2023

Head safe (3)

5 (V1)

Starting from a sitting position without a front rock, with the left hand in the corner and the right hand on the edge. Lift into the chute and thus straight up to the exit. Without using the right rock and a good corner handhold.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kulhanek, 2023

Welcome Edge (4)

4 (V0)

From a sitting position, with both hands under the arrow and climbing up the left edge.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2022

Razor blade

GPS: 50.1034213N, 14.3207234E

BOB (1)

2 (VB)

The path leads from a small pre-rock straight up along good holds on the slab. The climber must not use the right edge. Be careful, there is a worse landing spot and a slightly more difficult way back down.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Jan Kulhanek, 2022

Mach (2)

3 (VB)

Bouldering starts on the ledge from a standing position. From here, the climber goes straight to the top.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2022

Mach 3 Turbo (3)

5 (V1)

Bouldering starts from a handhold under the edge, feet on the rock. The climber must get over the edge and then connect to route No. 1 to reach the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2022

Blade (4)

4 (V0+)

The ascent is from the handrail on the edge, similar to the previous route. From there on the right edge to the top and to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2022

The lost massif

The lost massif there is one rock on which you will find 4 green circuit paths. The massif is oriented to the south, and is shaded by trees and rocks. You can climb here even in summer. It is only a few meters to Šárecký potok and the main tourist route. The landing site is relatively good and is still improving. Only one (larger) boulder mat is enough here. There is a swimming pool and Inn within 500 meters.

The lost massif

GPS: 50.1024573N, 14.3205928E

Traverse (1)

7B (V8)

Traverse with a seat from the corner, continues to the right, without the edge of the Baked Hip Hop line. It connects to the Forced parade route and reaches the climb. The line is without pre-rocks and pates

Line length: 8m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Mike Petrik, 2022

Hip Hop Underground (2.1)

6B+ (V4)

The line is from a sitting position with the left hand in the joint in the corner and the right hand on the edge. It comes down just like the mother's way.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Mike Petrik, 2022

Spring Hip Hop (2)

6A (V2)

The first line of the sector starts from the handholds on the left side of the edge. They have to jump into the handrails, then the climber reaches the top and the climb. Shorter climbers will have a problem here.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Reverse (3)

7B (V8)

Ascent from a sitting position as lines 4, 5 and 6. From this traverse to the left without a good edge of the Baked Hip Hop line. Without pre-rocks and pates.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Mike Petrik, 2022

Baked Hip Hop (4)

6B+ (V4)

Bouldering starts from a seated position, with hands clasped. From there, you follow the gap to the edge, which you traverse to the left to path No. 1, which you reach on the climb. Good holds above the edge must not be used.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Baked corner (5)

5 (V1)

The baked corner starts in the same way as route no. 2, with the hands in the joint from a sitting position. The climber continues around the gap to the top and to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Unknown

Forced parade (6)

5/5+ (V1/V2)

The forced parade is the last line starting in the same way as No. 2 and 3. But after the start, the climber turns to the right onto a rock block. By doing so, with the joint enabled, the climber gets to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Unknown

Ride a bare rock up your ass (7)

4 (V0)

This, the second easiest path of the sector, leads through the middle of the plateau to the right of the main paths. After good grips on the plate, the climber gets to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Tourist (8)

3 (VB)

The last line of this part of the rock is also the easiest line of the sector. It leads to the right of path No. 5, along the more rugged parts of the rock.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

The lost massif

GPS: 50.1024573N, 14.3205928E

Get up and exercise (9)

5+ (V1)

The line is on its own piece of rock. It starts in the handrail and turns left towards the edge that is allowed. The line ends at the platform.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Prague

17:42, 21.11.2024

1°C

clearly

77 %

15 Km/h

Wind Gust: 0 Km/h

Visibility: 10 km

Sunrise: 07:25

Sunset: 16:11

From where to	Distance
Arithm -> Nebu.	1.5 km
Damn -> BOOMerang	0.6 km
Parachute -> Arithm	1.6 km
BOOM. -> Highball	0.7 km
Highball -> Damn.	1.6 km
Lookout -> Sky.	0.85 km
Outlook -> Arithm	1.7 km
Pitcher -> Lookout	1.8 km

Distance between sectors

📚Soft binding

📑PDF

Green circle: Orientation

Zelený okruh vede dokola Divoké Šárky. Sektory jsou od sebe relativně vzdálené, takže je nutné pamatovat při přechodech na čas. Trasa je zamýšlena pro lezce, kteří s lezením (a lezením venku) začínají a lezou mezi obtížnostmi V1 – V2. Hlavní okruh má lehce přes 4km. Celý okruh se pak pohybuje kolem 7 kilometrů. Hlavní sektory zde jsou Skalky za Aritmou, Nebušická vyhlídka, Skalky za Nebušicemi, Čertovy nohavice a Soutěska Džbán (a přilehlé sektory).

The roads between the circuits are good. These are predominantly well-worn footpaths entered into Mapy.cz. The most accessible is Soutěska Džbán and the worst part of Skalek pod Nebušicemi.

Risks

The main risk when climbing and moving between sectors is tripping on paths and stone fields (first aid kit).
On Aritma and Nebušická lookout, there is more climbing in the sun, in the warmer months, dehydration, heatstroke and sunburn are possible (sunscreen and hats).
The paths between sectors are natural, watch out for ticks.
A handful of routes here have high Tops or less than ideal landings. So be careful, Highball and Last Lookout.

Support points:

Wild Sárka: Girl's Leap Inn, U Veselík swimming pool
Nebušice: Albert, Café Nebu, Burger Bar

public transport:
Bus: Veleslavín Station, Nové Vokovice, Jenerálka, K Noskovně.
Tram: Veleslavín Station, Divoká Šárka (Suspended)

Parking:
Nebušice: Nad Želivkou, K Pachmanca
Jenerálka: Street in Skály, parking lot at Restaurant Jenerálka
Prague 6: Džbán water reservoir parking lot

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