Climbing area: Divoká Šárka

Climbing in Divoká Šárka is extensive and beautiful. There is both bouldering and traditional climbing (and if you are really looking for a few sports shoes). However, it is relatively difficult to get your bearings in this tangle of rocks and stones. What to wear, where to go climbing, which sectors are best for beginners? Give it a minute, sit down for this quick count, and you'll soon know. We have prepared another lesson from the climbing area for you. It's the third after Prokop valley and Hlubočepské platené.

Boulders

Boulder circuits

Sportovní a tradiční lezení

Wild Sárka: Bouldering

Boulders in Divoká Šárka are divided into four visual areas and seventeen sectors. Each sector is characterized by its own climbing style and difficulty. In general, however, the boulders in Šárka are difficult and many are from a sitting position, which requires considerable physical strength. But there are so many different lines and problems that we can all find something here.

If you want to go bouldering in Šárka, it is best to pay a subscription to 27 crags, where a large group of climbers (including us) add and maintain a climbing guide. The second option is to download the "Guide to Šutrey", pdf created by one of the Prague climbers - Martin Válek. The last option (and by far the best) is to look at our TOPO. Unfortunately, the creation takes a while, so please be patient with us.

What to wear?

You can find a more detailed breakdown of what to do and how to start bouldering here. In general, however, magnesium, a brush, climbing shoes and bouldering mat(s) are all you need for bouldering. But if you want to have a good time, we also recommend some small change (there are a few snacks in Šárka), mosquito and tick repellant, as some sectors are very wet (Parachute) or overgrown, and of course sunscreen. We recommend it especially if you are going to climb in the summer months, to the Nebušická lookout.

Where to climb

Below are some tips for good bouldering. The sectors we have chosen are interesting and generally accessible. However, we emphasize that you will not find a full description of the bouldering sectors in Divoká Šárka here (because it does not fit here). It's just a lesson. If you want more detailed descriptions, look here our TOPO or to the one mentioned above 27 Crags.

1. Highball

Highball is one of the best sectors for climbing in Divoká Šárka. It is an approximately 8 meter high boulder on the southern side of the Džbán gorge. There are a total of 11 paths on two rocks. Six up to a maximum height of 8 meters, Two up to about three to four meters and two lying down only a few small movements long. We recommend having at least two bouldering mats for the eight-meter rock and one larger one (like the Dominator) for the lower routes.

2. Devil's pants

Devil's pants are one of the larger sectors of Šárka. In most cases, one boulder mat is enough here (but two are more pleasant). Mostly there is more difficult climbing, but even a novice can find something that suits him. Getting here is not difficult from either direction. The sector is very secluded and to some extent unmaintained, which climbers must keep in mind when choosing footwear.

3. BOOMerang

A relatively modest sector, BOOMerang it is made more for more experienced climbers. On a good access road, but hidden behind the bushes, BOOMerang is one of three bouldering sectors in a row. Landings here aren't always perfect, but the journeys are worth it. We recommend going here with more than one boulderer. Not only so that the climber does not get hurt, but also so that you can take full advantage of the traverses that are here.

4. Walls

The First and Second Walls (aka Walls) are very good rocks for beginners to outdoor bouldering. One boulder mat is plenty here, the rocks are not high and it is also relatively easy to climb back down (or jump off them). Access to them is also very straightforward and not long. The only downside to this sector is the tall grass and potential ticks to catch. However, this is only a small obstacle for climbing in Divoká Šárka.

Divóka Sárka: Traditional climbing

Traditional climbing in Divoká Šárka is one of the oldest in Prague. You climb here on "relatively" easy routes, mostly without the use of magnesium and with your own belay. That is Climbers must be well acquainted with how wedges, friends, multi-length belays and so on work. The roads here are not very well marked, but there are sectors that are known, often used and therefore acceptably well marked.

If you want to go rope climbing in Šárka, you really need to have all the equipment and know how to use it. If not, it's nice to have a friend who has one and is willing to teach you. Here, it is most worthwhile to familiarize yourself with the databases of ČHS and Lezec.cz.

What to wear?

This is traditional climbing. That is, climbing on your own, gradually inserted belays such as friends and wedges. So you need to have a set of both (ideally). In addition, it is necessary to have a rope, a seat, comfortable climbing shoes (unless you are going on one of the really challenging shorter routes) and, above all, a helmet. An abseiling eight or a guide-mode bucket is also something that comes in handy here.

Where to climb?

Divóka Šárka is extensive and there is a lot of climbing. But it is often restricted due to nesting birds or the growth of protected flowers. Therefore, before you go to Šárka, check your climbing permit at ČHS – Divoka Šárka. As we are not traditional climbers (no point in lying here), we cannot recommend many sectors from our experience. However, we have tips on good sectors for new climbers and one for seasoned veterans.

1. Zedka blocks

Zedkov blocks are a sector easily accessible from the asphalt road. It is a small niche near the memorial plaque, where there are approximately ten paths. Two of these are unlocked for sport climbing. Here you can get to the abseil and tie the top rope. Try not to do that though. If you will, please follow the principle "Leave no trace". The sector is ideal for newcomers to traditional climbing. It's a good place to learn how to insert your own belay and then climb a few easy routes.

2. Parachute

Parachute is a relatively little-used climbing sector in Šárka. Both bouldering and rope climbing are possible here. However, there are no chains at the top as you can simply climb back down. The sector is mainly for more experienced traditional climbers, as there are slightly more demanding routes that can be secured by small wedges in the toes. The sector is best at the turn of spring and winter and then in autumn. In the warm months there are a lot of mosquitoes and flies.

3. The frog

This sector - Žabák - is the largest rock formation in Divoká Šárka, on the top of which sits the Nebušická vyhlídka (where there is also bouldering). The frog consists of three barriers that rise to the top. Here it is really important to have all the tools needed for traditional climbing. It's good to hang out here, but also to learn. If you have a capable climber who can climb the first self-belay, try going here. You climb well and a lot and end up on a beautiful peak with a view of Divoka Šárka. However, the roads here are quite chaotic, so be well prepared.