Left plate - Hlubočepské plates

Hlubočepské plates

Number of trips: 20+7
Height: 40 m
Rock: Limestone
Trip Type: Laid down
GPS: 50.0431111N, 14.3908611E
public transport: bus 120, 258, train Prague – Žvahov, Prague – Hlubočepy
Parking: Hlubočepská and Pod Žvahovem streets
Pdf guide: here

Levá platena is the largest and highest sector of the Hlubočep plate area. It is 40m of vertical limestone with dominantly small holds and stupas. The sector is excellently and safely secured, and its safeguards are regularly changed. The climbing is dominantly for advanced climbers with only three routes for beginners. Everything is climbed on the first. Hikers can move around on top of the rock and inadvertently drop rocks and debris down. Along with that, some paths, especially joints, are fragile. A helmet is therefore recommended for everyone who moves around the stove.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing.

TOPO Hlubočepské plotny- levá plotna pohled od jihu, lezecké cesty

Left plate:

GPS: 50.0431111N, 14.3908611E
Bloody Mary (1)

6a+ (7-)

This path begins only a few meters below the top of the left loose slope at the end of the plate. The climb is divided into two sections, separated by a slightly crumbly ledge. The entire path is over micro holds and leads straight up to the ledge along two ledges. From there, it turns slightly to the left over two more borháks for abseiling. However, be extra careful, as the climber will move close to the left edge and the top of the plate, where there is a risk of increased crumbling.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: R. Záveský, 13/04/2021

Operation Anthropoid (1.1)

6c/6c+ (7+/8-)

This route is the first of two variants of the Bloody Mary route. It has a total of four belay points, which end on the rock. The first half of the journey is the same as the maternity journey. It splits behind a crumbly edge, from where it goes straight up again via micro holds, over two boulders to abseil. As with Route #1, be extra careful around the top edge above the salt flat, which tends to crumble and debris falling from the summit.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: R. Záveský, 22/04/2021

Golden Veins (1.2)

7a/7a+ (8)

This journey is the longest and most difficult in this trio of journeys. The first half is the same as the previous trips. From the edge, however, it leads slightly diagonally to the right, after a series of micro steps over three borháks to rappelling. Since this path leads mostly along the crumbly edge, it is necessary to watch out for loose pieces. Along with this, the same warnings apply as for the previous two routes.

Length: 14m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: R. Záveský, 17/05/2021

Drop What's Wobbly (2)

7a+ (VIII+)

The path starts on the left on the slope near the ledge. Which leads to a corner and then over two piles on a shelf. The challenging part follows, climbing over three borháks to abseil. In the first half, the path is slightly crumbly and difficult to access through the loose slope.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: I. Semrád, M. Tučka, 18 November 2018

Grandpa Gibbon (3)

7a (VIII)

The last road before the start of the steep slope (marked with a red sign). It leads over four boulders to the shelf and to the abseiling shared with the Evička no T-shirt route. If you climb after a period of heavy rains, we recommend taking a brush to clean the holds.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: Josef Sulke

Evicka without a shirt (4)

6b (VIII)

The road is marked with a red sign. It leads over three borháks, the first of which is relatively high on the left plate. At the last borhák, the path turns to the left and leads to the shelf and to the rappelling joint with route No. 3 on the shelf.

Length: 18m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Josef Sulke

Eve on the lookout (4.1)

6c+ (VIII-)

Variant of route no. 4 Evička Without T-shirt. It splits off at the 3rd borhák, where it leads straight up with a slight turn to the right to the new cable car of routes 5. and 6.

Length: 18m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author:

Railway route (5)

6a+ (VII-)

The path leads to the right of path No. 4. Evička Bez Trička. The first borhák is high, but after that the path is well secured. It is allowed to climb the second borhák with the hands using the edge. However, it must not be crossed, as it is secondary route No. 6. The climbing ends after the fourth borhák by abseiling from the new circle to the shelf. There is a risk of slight crumbling when using the edge.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: M. Beránek, Z. Pacholík, 1967

Stainless path (6)

5c (VI)

A stainless steel path leads through three slats to the corner. Subsequently, using the last two ropes of route 5, to rappel together on the shelf. The climb before the edge is slightly crumbly and potentially loose (depending on the amount of debris in the crack).

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: M. Tučka, J. Nešvera, 24/03/2015

Dogs are barking, the caravan is moving on (7)

7c+ (IX+)

The path leads along the wall along the gap, over two boulders on the shelf. Further along the edge, over six borkhaks to divide in a horizontal joint. On this one, the path turns left and leads over three bolts to the abseil. The route is one of the longest routes on the plate and can be climbed using the multipitch technique over the slalom of route 8 on the shelf halfway up the route. Due to the length and roughness of the route, a helmet is recommended for both climbers and belayers.

Length: 30 m
Insurance: 11 + salt shaker
Author: Miloslav Pletanek, 1995

Weight 80 (7.1)

7c (IX)

Weight 80 is a variant of route 7, from which it is divided on the third bolt. This variant continues after the split to the left along the edge over seven well-unlocked bolts to abseil. The rock is the most crumbly around the salt flat, so be extra careful at that point.

Length: 25 m
Insurance: 10 + salt shaker
Author: P. Babinec, M. Válek, 20/02/2017

Camel at the Gate (Var 7.2)

7c (IX)

The second variant of route 7. This one separates from the original route at the eighth bolt in a horizontal joint. Where the original path leads to Dogs barking, the caravan continues to drive, turn right and continue over two bolts to the abseil.

Length: 30 m
Insurance: 10 + salt shaker
Author: P. Babinec, M. Tučka, 10.2013

Stronger Dog (8)

5a (V+)

This route is the easiest route of the left Hlubočep Plateau. It leads up the stairs made of slats to the shelf and then through a slight traverse on the right to abseiling. The road is well secured, but the third bolt is not necessary.

Length: 14m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: E. Jarolímová, J. Nešvera, M. Tučka, 24/03/2015

Stronger dog direct (8.1)

6a+ (VII-)

Variant of number 8. Stronger dog, this path leads directly in the line of securing borkhas. It is about climbing on small holds, but the use of rails on the left is allowed.

Length: 13m
Insurance: 5 + salt shaker
Author: E. Jarolímová, J. Nešvera, M. Tučka, 24/03/2015

11 (9)

8a+/8b (x)

The longest and most difficult route of the Hlubočep Plateau, climbed using the multipitch technique. The ascent is marked with the number 11. The path leads through small holds and is well secured by twelve bolts and a rope.

Length: 35 m
Insurance: 12 + salt shaker
Author: Josef Sulke

In the Shadow of the Guillotine (on the shelf) (10)

8a (X-)

The start of the path is right at the exit from the small plate. The climber follows eight borkhaks to rappel, which is shared with route 11. The route is well secured and does not crumble.

Length: 18m
Insurance: 8 + salt shaker
Author: Josef Sulke

Jax Menuju? (11)

7b (VIII+)

The route leads along six bolts along the right edge to a common abseil with route 10. You climb small holds and the edge. However, the edge is fragile and there is a risk of the stone falling in large blocks. A helmet is therefore recommended, especially for breakers!

Length: 18m
Insurance: 6 + salt shaker
Author: Josef Sulke

In the shadow of the guillotine (12)

8a (X-)

The last of the long paths of the left plate starts just before the climbs of the small plate. It is secured by eleven bolts and two bolts. The route, like routes 7 and 9, climbs over a multipitch. The path leads along the gap to the right edge and the first mountain slope. It continues after three bolts to the top. The path is very breaking and a helmet for breakers is a must.

Length: 30 m
Insurance: 11 + 2 salt flats
Author: Josef Sulke

Left of Concert (13)

7a (VIII)

The first trip to the shelf (the top of the small plate). The beginning is unlocked with a bolt, on which the safety device is hung using a spacer. Four bolts follow along the path itself. Rappelling takes place from the last fixed belay back to the shelf.

Length: 12m
Insurance: 5
Author:

Shadow On The Wall (13.1)

7b (VIII+)

Shadow on the Wall is an extension of the journey Left of the Concert. At the last bolt of route 13, the climber continues diagonally to the right. In this way, he gets over three bolts to rappel the 14th route, which he will use to descend. There is a risk of rock breaking on the left edge.

Length: 25 m
Insurance: 8 + salt shaker
Author: J. Damašek, A. Zdráhal, 18 November 2018

Canadian Walk (14)

7c+ (IX+)

The path begins at the second shelf bolt. As with the previous two paths, a bolt is used here to anchor the circuit breaker. The climber thus has six (7 with the use of a breaker) bolts in front of him for abseiling and climbing tears.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 7 + salt shaker
Author: Josef Sulke

concert (15)

7b (VIII+)

The journey begins at the first abseil of the shelf, on which the second climber belays. A well-secured and very technical route awaits climbers along small holds over six boulders to their own abseil.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 6 + 2 salt flats
Author: M. Horejc, A. Komárek, 1987

Complete disaster (16)

7c (IX)

Finished Misfortune begins on the last slope before the crack in route 18. Balanc. The path leads through the middle of the wall over five bolts to abseiling. As with the previous route, it is a very technical route along small holds.

Length: 20 m
Insurance: 5 + 2 salt flats
Author: O. Malý, 1987

Master or Disciple (17)

7c (IX)

The entrance to the route is slightly to the right of route 16. However, the second climber will secure himself in the same ropeway. The climber starts with the help of a crack and follows the wall, over five bolts to abseil. Use of the crack to the right of the path for foot position is not prohibited.

Length: 18m
Insurance: 5 + 2 salt flats
Author: P. Babinec, M. Tučka, 18.4.2012

Balance (18)

4 (IN-)

The path from the left rappel through the fissure to belay. There are four bolts available, all to the left, leading to a potential pendulum. The path is slightly crumbly and overgrown. However, it is the easiest way of the stove.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 4 + 2 salt flats
Author: Gorbi et al.

Nirvana (19)

6b+ (VII+)

The second climber belays on the penultimate rappel of the plate, where the route begins. The climber has in front of him one of the "easier" routes of the left plate, well secured by three bolts ending at the joint rappelling of routes 18, 19 and 20.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 3 + 2 salt flats
Author: V. Kolařík, Robert Hons, Richard Hons, 1987

Ripped (20)

6c+ (VIII-)

The start of the trail is at the last slope of the shelf. It is a four-bolt unlocked route to joint rappelling with the two previous ones. The use of the right edge of the midday two bolts is allowed.

Length: 12m
Insurance: 4 + 2 salt flats
Author: Z. Raim, 1988

Lezecký průvodce je takédostupný v pdf formatu na portálu Patreon.com. TOPO průvodce pražskými lezeckými oblastmi
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Prague
14:36, 21.11.2024
temperature icon 3°C
cloudy
Humidity 72 %
Wind 28 Km/h
Wind Gust: 0 Km/h
Visibility: 10 km
Sunrise: 07:25
Sunset: 16:11

Access:

Levá plotna is the largest rock in the climbing area of Hlubočepská plotna. It is located approximately 150 meters from right plates and about 650 meters from the Prague-Žvahov train station. You can get to the sector, just like the right plate, in three main ways.

Northern access road is the least used. It leads from Prague 5 through a meadow with astral circles and down the slope towards Hlubočepy's Skalnička Garden and K Dalejím Street. Just before connecting to the asphalt road from the footpath, however, you need to turn onto the footpath between the trees (GPS: 50°02'34.3″N 14°23'23.3″E). On foot we reach the platform overlooking the left plate. On the right side there are paths leading down from the precipice, along which we go down and turn left into a small canyon. This will get us under the small and left plate.

South-East route it leads from the stop of buses 120 and 258. If you came in the direction of travel to Radotín, we recommend going back a few meters against the direction of travel and turning left into Hlubočepská street and the next right turn into Pod útesy street. At the end of this street, turn right again and join the street Ke Hřbitovu, which leads uphill. If you arrived in the direction of Na Knížecí, it is faster to go along Slivenecká Street, which you will see on the left in front of you in the direction of travel. Through here you will come to a crossroads, where you turn left into Ke Hřbitovu street and then the first street on the right.

Both options will take you to the train tracks at the top of the hill. After those, head left until you reach the left plate. We emphasize that this is an active railway, watch out for the train! There are two possible approaches from this direction. One on the slope directly below the plate (steep and loose) and the other a few meters further to the left on a gentle slope (longer but more comfortable).

South Road leads along Hlubočepská street. It is necessary to pass under the semmering, behind which you can conveniently parallel park for free. After semmering, the climber goes down the first street to the right along K Dalejím street and then after the pub Hurdálková chýše jedová around the rock to the right again, where he comes to the fork next to the Skalničková garden of Hlubočepy. He takes the path to the right again and continues until, you guessed it, he hits a well-trodden path through the trees on the right. The same as in the case of the approach from the north of the meadow.

public transport: Bus stop 120, 258 Nádraží Hlubočepy, train stations Prague – Žvahov and Prague – Hlubočepy

Parking: Hlubočepská Street behind Semmering, Pod Žvahovem, Pod Útesy