Climbing area: Hlubočepské plotny

Hlubočepské plates are often called the best climbing area in Prague. The area is conveniently located between Barrandov, Jinonice and Smíchov and two train and bus lines. Due to its proximity to the Prokopská údolí area, it would seem at first glance that it will be traditional rock climbing. But as the name suggests, the area is dominated by inclined plates. It is aimed mainly at intermediate to advanced climbers.

Sportovní a tradiční lezení

Left plate

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27

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Small hot plate

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12

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The right plate

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17

2

Žvahov

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5

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Boulders

Skalky kolem Hlubočep

12

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History

Na hlubočepských vápencích se, stejně jako v Prokop valley, leze už desítky let. První zapsané výstupy jsou na Svazu zaznamenané z konce šedesátých let, kde se začala oblézat Right and Left plotna, které se postupně pilnou prací zaplnily. O valnou část prvovýstupů se v této době postarali otrlí lezci z horolezeckého oddílu Vyšehrad. Lezlo se tu po práci a ve volných chvílích. Cesty byly natahané a zajištěné za vlastní finance oddílu, za což jim můžeme být do dnes vděční.

Na Hlubočepech se aktivně se tu od roku 1968. Do tohoto roku se na Hlubočepských plotnách těžil vápenec – jehož poznamenání je na oblasti viditelné do dnes.
Jak je tomu už v Praze pravidlem, oblasti se často rozrůstají. Ani Hlubočepské plotny nejsou výjimkou tohoto pravidla. Prvotně se lezlo pouze na Levé plotně a napravo od Kouta Pravé plotny. Small hot plate sloužila jako „prohřévací“ do značné míry. Postupně se ale všechny tři skály oblezly a zaplnily. Do konce roku 2010 byla již velká část zavedena a prolezena.

S příchodem Covidu se však ambiciózní lezci postarali i o plotnu na Žvahově a bouldry se zaplnily i Skalky mezi plotnami, na které se na laně lézt nedá.

Pravidla lezení

Pravidla lezení jsou na skalách jasně daná. V Hlubočepech platí jasná pravidla. Zákaz měnit podobu skály a přilehlého okolí, zákaz tvorby nových cest a zákaz používání zimní lezecké výzbroje.
Zároveň s tím se pojí pravidla platná pro Přírodní rezervace, která se ale týkají zejména sektoru Žvahov.

Hlubočepské plates: Climbing sectors

The Hlubočep plates are composed of three main sectors. He is the biggest Left plate, followed by crumbly and partly non-plate The right plate and the smallest – Small hot plate. The Small and Left plates are adjacent to each other and are only a few hundred meters away from the right plate.

Left Plate – Hlubočepské plates

The rock is the highest and largest of the sectors of the Hlubočep Plateau climbing area. With its 40 meters of height and 27 routes, it is the perfect place for advanced climbers. Although there are also easier routes (such as the Balanc – 4 (V-) route), the vast majority of routes are rated between 7a (VIII) and 7c+ (IX+). The left plate is therefore not an ideal place for beginners or those who they don't go first.

Although the rock itself is not friable, the slats tend to break. Along with this, there is a risk of debris falling from the top of the rock, where tourists are moving. Therefore, we highly recommend wearing a helmet around the stove. Broken roads are marked in the description of the roads in the guide here.

From the equipment, it is necessary to have available 1. A rope AT LEAST 50 meters long 2. Belay 3. Seat 4. Climbing shoes (ideally with hard rubber to edging, as Vibram XS Edge) 5. Set of 6 to 12 express bikes (depending on the length of the route) 6. Carabiners (depending on the length – enough for multi-length belay) 7. Seat (required for tying the belay at the end of the journey) 8. Helmet

Right plate - Hlubočepské plates

The sector is the second largest, but also the most dangerous sector of the Hlubočepská plotna area. You will find a total of 15 main routes divided into two parts. For a more difficult and higher plate and smaller "lighter" ribs. The roads are unlocked bolts and rivets, which are regularly exchanged. However, traditional belaying and the use of boulder mats are also recommended here for more dangerous ascents.

The roads are relatively broken and very close to the active rail. That's why it's key to carry a helmet and pay attention. Although at first glance it would seem that Pravá plotna is a good place for beginner climbers, unfortunately it is not. The combination of high first belays, brittleness and unpleasant falls make this a sector for more advanced climbers.

From the equipment, it is necessary to have available 1. A rope AT LEAST 50 meters long 2. Belay 3. Seat 4. Climbing shoes (ideally with harder rubber) 5. Set of 6 express bikes 6. Two carabiners 7. Seatpost (necessary for tying the belay at the end of the trip) 8. Helmet and recommended 9. Wedges or friends and 10. Bouldermat

Continue for a more detailed description of routes and transport here, where we have prepared the latest guide for you.

Small hot plate

The plate is adjacent to the Left Plate sector. It is the safest and smallest sector of the area. Here you will find twelve inclined paths. The climbing is well secured (mainly bolts) and leads to abseiling. The Small Plate is significantly lighter than the adjacent Left Plate. It is thus ideal for warming up before moving on to longer routes in the sector or for climbing training for beginners. Bouldering mats or traditional belaying are not needed here.

The roads are short and very inclined from the halfway point. It is a very low risk when climbing. Nevertheless, we recommend a helmet, as there is still a possibility of debris falling from the top of the Left Plate.

Among the equipment, it is necessary to have available 1. A rope AT LEAST 40 meters long 2. Belay 3. Seat 4. Climbing shoes (ideally with harder rubber) 5. Set of 6 express guns 6. Two carabiners 7. Seat belt 8. Helmet

Continue for a more detailed description of routes and transport here, where we have prepared the latest guide for you.

Bouldering

Hlubočepy jsou relativně čerstvě domovem rozrůstajícího se boulder sektoru na Skalce mezi Plotnami. Lezení je to těžké a překvapivě pro nikoho – plotnovité a těžké. Celkem je tu 12 boulder linek mezi obtížnostmi 5 (V1) až 8A+ (V12). Najdete tu budto lehké cesty mezi 5+ – 6C nebo opavdu náročné cesty od 7C+ nahoru.
Pozitivní je zde to, že dopadiště jsou vesměs velice dobrá, takže není nutné být vyzbrojený mnoha bouldermatkami a chytači.