Climbing scales of difficulty

As part of climbing, whether on the best interior walls nebo venku, jsme se setkali s podivnými čísly a písmeny lemující cesty a průvodce. Všechny nás zezačátku mátly a v tichu jsme doufali, že nám je někdo vysvětlí. Tichým prosbám nových lezců všude jsme vyhověli, a proto tu pro vás máme lezecké stupnice obtížnosti a jejich vysvětlení.

For better orientation, we have divided the scales into two main groups, according to the style of climbing. These are very logical bouldering and climbing (difficulty) scales.

Bouldering

There are two main scales in bouldering, "font" and "V" (we do not count the color division of gyms such as SmíchOFF). Font, or Fontainebleu, is a scale that originated in France and bears a striking resemblance to a sport climbing scale. The so-called "shell" scale is the second scale in bouldering and the one we will most likely meet a little earlier, as its format – V0, V1, V2 etc. – is a little easier.

Fontainebleu "Font" scale

The Font climbing difficulty scale is open and starts at number 1. It must be said that problems easier than 3 are rare, as they can often be climbed without crampons or a boulder mat. The "real" font scale thus ranges between 3 and 9a.

Since the font of the scale is older than clamshell, there is one small oddity in it. This is the appearance of letters and characters in the scale. The first to be added are the letters - a, b, c - and then the signs - "+" and "-". In practice, this enables a more thorough evaluation of problems that would be thrown into one bag in the "V" scale. So we can have a problem that is rated as V3. However, we do not know if it is closer in V2 or V4. At that moment, we can look at the Font scale, where the boulder will have a rating of either 6a or 6a+.

In the final, the higher the number, the heavier the boulder. Number and letter is harder than number alone and number, letter and symbol win.

5 is lighter than 6a, which is then lighter than 6a+.

"V" scale

The clamshell scale is open and currently ranging between V0 and V17. It is a scale that, in individual values, includes a relatively large number of problems of varying difficulty (V3 can be both 6a and 6a+). However, it is somewhat more universal than the Font scale, as it is used by climbers all over the world. Sometimes you will also see difficulties like VB, which is reserved for beginners (B for Beginner) and is easier than V0.

The principle of this scale is very straightforward, the higher the number behind the V, the harder the boulder problem awaits you. Most climbers are between V3 – V5 on this scale. The best climbers you meet in the gym often end up with problems around the V10.

This scale is occasionally adjusted according to the difficulty of a given problem within the scale. This is done using "+" and "-". The V3+ problem is thus more difficult than the V3, which in turn is more difficult than the V3-. If you encounter this variation, it will probably be somewhere around V0 – V3.

Climbing on difficulty (lead)

In difficulty (aka lead) climbing we have three main scales that we encounter. These are the International UIAA, the French Sports Scale and the Yosemite Decimal Scale. Of these three, however, we are most in contact with the UIAA scale, i.e. "sports", as we see them most on the rocks in our country and in our gyms.

UIAA scale

UIAA is the scale of the International Union of Mountaineering Organizations. It is an open scale in which the size of the number (in Roman) indicates the difficulty of the journey. The grade is awarded on the basis of the most difficult section of the route in conjunction with its length.

Grades here are mostly given in Roman – IV, V, VI – but it is not unusual to see them written in “our” Arabic numerals too – 4, 5, 6. You may get confused by the UIAA and the sports scale. The numbers in the UIAA system also complement the pluses and minuses. As with bouldering, a plus indicates a harder route and a minus indicates an easier route.

In practice, VI- is lighter than VI, which is lighter than VI+ (6-, 6, 6+).

Sports (French) scale

The French sports scale is currently the most used scale in the world. This is mainly because it is used by professional climbers as a universal rating that everyone knows (and we prefer it too). Here, too, the difficulty of the journey is indicated by a combination of the most difficult section and the length of the journey. Unlike the UIAA, however, it is given exclusively in Arabic numbers (1–9).

For a more detailed differentiation of paths, we have the letters a, b, ca and then "+". If this seems complicated, don't worry. In practice, 6a is thus lighter than 6a+, which is then lighter than 6b.

Transfers between UIAA and Sports are somewhat tricky. It helps us to remember that 5a is practically V+ and to bounce back from that. VI- in UIAA is thus 5a+, VI is 5b and so on.

Yosemite Range

Climbing difficulty scales can be confusing. However, Yosemite is not. It is a combination of integer and decimal numbers that indicate the difficulty of the route. It is important to say here that we practically do not meet this style in Europe, as it originated and is used almost exclusively in the USA and Yosemite National Park. So you can meet him if you watch the show with Alex Honnold or one of the climbing films.

The Yosemite range is old and shows the evolution of sport climbing. All paths start with the number 5. and then add tenths to them. From 5.10, the letters a, b, c, d are also added to it. the higher the number, the harder the path. The higher the letter, the harder the path.

5.10a not lighter than 5.10b. 5.11 is lighter than 5.12 and 5.13.

And what else?

Now that you know the climbing scales and difficulties, it's time to move into practice. Check out ours Prague TOPOS and go climb out. We recommend Hlubočepské plates or Pine rock if you are starting out.

If you are not sure if you can use your current equipment outdoors, check out our articles on climbing frames, theirs soles and seats. We hope they help you. But the main thing is to climb, survive and enjoy it!