Pine rock

Prokop valley

Number of trips: 28 + 3
Height: 20 m
Rock: Limestone
Trip Type: Vertical / Tilted
GPS: 50.0387147N, 14.3553758E
public transport: train: Prague-Holyně, Prague-Jinonice
Metro: Nové Butovice, Jinonice
Bus stops: Ovčí hájek, Malá Ohrada, Klukovice, Jinonice
Parking: Butovice Gallery, K Opatřilce street, Liščí, Zaječí
Pdf guide: here
Fyzický průvodce: here

Borová skála is the largest and best maintained sector of the Prokop Valley climbing area. It is primarily vertical sport climbing with several laid routes and a handful of traditional or combined routes. Borová skála is a perfect area for beginners and moderate to intermediate climbers. The vast majority of roads are permanently unlocked. The rock is not crumbly, but it is accessible from the top, so there is a risk of stones or debris falling on the climber. However, such a situation is very unlikely, as there are no loose stones, loose soil or trees on the top. This is one of the safest climbing areas in Prague. However, we still recommend a climbing helmet. For the paths in the left part of the rock (No. 1-11) we recommend a boulder mat. The landings here are over rocks, so falling can be dangerous.
Pine rock is adjacent to the area: Borová skála – the true amphitheater.
Climbing is subject the rules for rock climbing.

Náhled lezení Borová skála trasy v kopci  Praha
Borová skála: routes 1 – 4.1

Pine Rock I:

Crack (1)

6b/6b+ (VIII)

The first journey of Pine Rock. It leads through the crack directly to the top. The path is not secured, it is often climbed more like a boulder. However, the ascent to it is uphill, so we recommend the use of small wedges or friends. The path is climbing.

Length: 5 m
Insurance: Traditional
Author: Unknown

First steps (2)

4a (IV+)

The second path from the left and the first that is unlocked. It leads in the line of two borkhas (shared with route 2.1) under the overhang and slightly to the left to the abseil (however, it can be considered as climbing). Rappelling is common to routes 2., 2.1 and 3.

Length: 5 m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1972

Last step (2.1)

4c (IN)

Variant of the route 2. with the start approximately a meter and a half from the start of the mother road. He climbs the wall directly to break out the rock under the overhang. Here the path connects to the mother path and leads to abseiling. Two borháks of route 2 are used for protection. The first steps.

Length: 6m
Insurance: 2 borhák + slanák
Author: Martin Tučka, 2015

Last Cone (3)

6c/6c+ (VIII-)

Route 3, The Last Cone is the most difficult route in the Borová skála sector. It starts to the left of the large breakout and continues up to the first bolt. It then continues through the toe joint up through a smooth wall with slats, the second bolt and abseiling. The climber may use good steps on the right.

Length: 6m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Smoked Path (4)

2+ (III)

The path starts to the right of the entrance to path 3. The last cone. It leads diagonally through a crumbly breakaway and then over a slight overhang, good holds for the climb. The entire route is traditional (belay inserted into the joints), without abseiling and climbing.

Length: 7m
Insurance: Traditional
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Yesterday's Sack (4.1)

4a (IV+)

Variant of path No. 4, which separates from the parent path behind a break. It then continues slightly to the right over the vertical wall to the exit. Like the mother road, this one is also traditionally unlocked and ends with a climb.

Length: 8m
Insurance: Traditional
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

TOPO - Borová skála Praha střed cesty 5-12
Pine rock: routes 5 – 12

Pine Rock II:

Left edge (5)

6a VI+

The beginning of the path is at the bolt under the edge. We recommend that you secure yourself in it before starting the climb due to the risk of falling on the rock at the start. Subsequently, we continue directly in the line of two rivets to the climb or joint abseiling with routes No. 6. and 7.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

In the middle of the plate (6)

3b (IV)

The entrance to the road is to the right of road No. 5 Left edge. It leads through the center of the plate in a natural way through the recess. Climbing is secured by three rivets and a rope below the top.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

My Universities (7)

4c (IN)

The path begins in the drop to the right of the path through the center of the plate. It leads along a gentle wall over a small overhang into a considerable depression and from there to the top for abseiling. The path is secured with three rivets and a common rappel, which it shares with paths No. 6 and No. 5.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Edge between corners (8)

5b (VI-)

The entrance is at the visible cut-out handle, which serves as a deep hold. The climber has a relatively straight path ahead leading through two significant corners. The fixed belay consists of a total of four rivets leading to the rappelling.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown


Note: If the climber is smaller and does not reach the cut-out handrail, the difficulty is increased by the newly formed boulder to 5c/6a (VI/VI+)
Logical diagonal: the connection of paths 5, 7 and 8. The entrance is at the handrail of path 8 and continues along the wall over its two rivets. At the second rivet, turn left to the first rivet of path No. 7 and further left along the sloping platform to path No. 5 and that way to the top. Rated 6a (VI+)

Souvenir from Cima (9)

3b (IV)

A logical, traditionally secured path leading down a drop corner to a visible sloping shelf. From there, the climber continues to the corner and then to the top. The route is traditionally climbed using small wedges and friends (as in the first ascent) or a combination of traditional and fixed belaying. There are two rivets on the shelf that lead to ropes.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Diagonal (10)

3c (IV)

The road is located to the left of road no. 11. It leads upwards, diagonally to the left over the belly, onto a shelf (secured by a clock) and from that over a small overhang directly to the top. The path is traditionally secured and leads to abseiling behind the peak.

Length: 12m
Insurance: Traditional
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Sun Edge (11)

4c (IN)

The last road before the edge. Access to the path is at the arrow in the laid part under the overhang. From there, the path leads over an overhang to a sloping shelf and slightly to the left to the clock, in which you can traditionally secure it. From them it follows slightly over a small wall to the top and to abseiling behind it.

Length: 12m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Borová skála lezení v Praze TOPO cesty 12 - 17
Borová skála: routes 12 – 17

Pine Rock III:

New Edge (12)

4c (IN)

The entrance to this path is on the inclined wall behind the edge, between paths No. 11 and 13. The path leads along the edge to a slight overhang. Until this moment, the way of unlocking is three bolts. This is followed by a roughly meter-long traverse along an inclined platform on the left. Using that we go around the overhang and over a small wall and one bolt we climb to the abseil behind the peak.

Length: 14m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Vavrinecka (13)

2+ (III)

The path is the second path to the right from the edge of the rock. It leads, from the entrance, through a small wall, over an inclined plate upwards. It is a simple plate climbing unlocked with three rivets leading to abseiling. The first half can be additionally unlocked traditionally using a clock.

Length: 12m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

MLS (14)

2+ (III)

The path leads very straight, through the depression directly to abseiling. The climber is permanently unlocked up to just behind the halfway point with two rivets. In the first half, it is possible to unlock traditionally. However, the rock has many good firm holds and steps, so this is not a necessity for more experienced climbers (as with route no. 13 and no. 15).

Length: 13m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Evening entertainment (15)

2+ (III)

A path combining fixed and traditional belaying, starting on the vertical wall before the cliff. The path leads across the plateau diagonally to the left to abseil. The first fixed belay is only a few meters below the abseil (common for routes 13, 14 and 15). Most of the path can be unlocked traditionally using small wedges or friends. However, this is not necessary for experienced climbers. However, be extra careful at the start of the path, as there is a risk of falling from a small slope into the "warehouse".

Length: 13m
Insurance: 1 + traditional + slanák
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Violet (16)

3c (IV)

The first way behind the stairs. The ascent is along the wall and leads directly to the first bolt (at the same time, it is also the crux of the route). Clicking into the first bolt is followed by climbing over the next two bolts to the climb. Alternatively, the last bolt of the route can be used for abseiling.

Length: 10 m
Insurance: 3
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

First (17)

2+ (III)

A very short and straightforward path along the wall. It leads directly in the line of two borkhas to rock formations. To extend the journey, there is also a "climbing" cable car at the top of the pillar.

Length: 5 m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

TOPO borová skála Praha pohled od jihu cesty 17-28
Borová skála: routes 17-28

Pine Rock IV:

First (17)

2+ (III)

A very short and straightforward path along the wall. It leads directly in the line of two borkhas to rock formations. To extend the journey, there is also a "climbing" cable car at the top of the pillar.

Length: 5 m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Flat pillar (18)

3c (IV)

The entrance to the road is at the fall of a flat pillar. The path continues slightly to the left and to the top. It is unlocked with one bolt on the right side and with the use of the cable car route no. 17.

Length: 6m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Second (19)

4c (IN)

A path with a start on the vertical wall to the right of the pillar. Using two bolts (close to each other) leads to an oblique left to abseil. Getting on the road is a bit more difficult than the rest.

Length: 8m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Tingle-Tangle (20)

3a (III+)

The route is a combination of traditional and fixed insurance. The climber steps onto the vertical wall and climbs slightly to the right with the help of a bolt to the saddle. Here you secure yourself on the rivet of route no. 21 and follow diagonally to the right to rappel under the summit. The second half of the route is unlocked traditionally or by using extended expressways via route rivets No. 21.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 2 + traditional + salty
Author: Pavel Schwarz, 1979

Two Pillars (20.1)

3c (IV)

This route is a variant of Route No. 20 Tingl-Tangl, from which it disconnects at the first bolt. The variant continues to the left before the flat pillar (using another bolt). From the top of the pillar, then via a sloping wall and one borhák, there is abseiling behind the top, which is shared with route no. 21.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Petrin dishes (21)

3c (IV)

The path leads in a line of four rivets, a very logical path to abseiling at the top. The climber is well secured. After climbing a small wall, he is faced with a stair climb and a short slab with good steps and holds.

Length: 19m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: F. Šebl, P. Pospěchová, M. Honců, 2013

Third (22)

3c (IV)

The third one shares the approach and the first bolt with route No. 21. It turns left and before the second bolt on the pillar leads to abseiling. This is shared with routes 17 and 19.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Winter Road (23)

4b (IN-)

Access to the path is the same as the path to Spára (no. 24). On its first rivet, however, it turns to the left, goes around the overhang and continues over the belly and two rivets to rappel. This is common with route #20.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Joint (24)

4c (IN)

Climbing this route is more challenging for small climbers. However, it leads over the rivet of the beginning of the toe joint. Further on, the path leads to the left of the joint, over four rivets to the rappel. Pairing technique is not necessary here as most of the route is climbed over side moves and edges.

Length: 12m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz

Joint from the right (25)

5a (V+)

The road with the entrance just to the left of the overpass. It leads over four rivets to the rappel (route no. 24). The first three meters around the overhang are not unlocked. However, it is possible to insert a small friend or wedge. The path itself skirts the gap on its right side.

Length: 12m
Insurance: 4 + salt shaker
Author: Pavel Schwarz

Journey to a fairy tale (26)

6a (VII-)

The hardest path of the right segment of the pine rock leads directly over the overhang. Access to it is to the left of route No. 27 (both are marked with an arrow). Unlocked by two bolts (shared with route no. 27), it leads further to abseiling. The route is technically and physically demanding and has two possible abseils. Direct abseiling is behind the summit and shared with routes No. 27 and No. 28. More pleasant and less destructive for the rope is the abseiling for the routes around the gap. It is enough to climb a short traverse to the left of the platform (we recommend this option, as it is less demanding on the ropes and after the crux of the route).

Length: 13m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: M. Tučka, M. Válek, 2015

Straight overhang (27)

5b (VI-)

The second route from the right (marked by an arrow) is in the same style as route No. 28. It leads directly in the line of bolts over the overhang and vertical wall to rappel. This is common with route No. 28 – Převis

Length: 13m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Right overhang (28)

5b (VI-)

The rightmost path (marked by an arrow) starting in the overhang and continuing straight up over two rivets. From the second rivet, the climbing changes to slab climbing and continues to abseiling behind the edge. Climbing Borová skála is very physically demanding and consists of lateral and downward pulls.

Length: 14m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Unknown

Lezecký průvodce je také dostupný v pdf formatu na portálu Patreon.com. TOPO průvodce pražskými lezeckými oblastmi
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Prague
15:20, 02.11.2024
temperature icon 10°C
cloudy
Humidity 74 %
Wind 20 Km/h
Wind Gust: 0 Km/h
Visibility: 10 km
Sunrise: 06:54
Sunset: 16:37

Access:

There are as many accesses to the Borová skála sector as there are to the Prokop valley. There are four main directions to get into the sector. As part of a better orientation, we do not divide them into parts of the world, but into the parts of Prague from which they lead. They are approaches from Butovice, Nové Ves, Klukovice and Hlubočep.

Access from Butovice

Access road from the Prague part of Nová Butovice is one of the easiest if you arrive at the pine rock using public transport. From the Nové Butovice metro stop or the Ovčí hájek bus, head south (towards Galeria Butovice or the Asuán reservoir). If you don't know your way around the world's sides, head straight for the green. You go down the hill and join one of the asphalt roads to the left of the reservoir, leading into the forest and into the valley. You will stick to the path until you pass a drinking water well (save point AA 011). Then your goal is to get across the stream and one of the paths along the contour up the hill to the pine rock.

An alternative approach for those who don't want to wade or jump over stones is up the hill in front of Jinonický potok and Butovické hradiště on the path (50.038999, 14.355571) leading to the rock from the hill.

Access from Hlubočep

Access to Borová skála sector from Hlubočep is the longest and pedestrian only. It is connected to transport to the sector Žvahov (Prokop valley) and sectors Left, Right and Malá plotna (Hlubočepské plotny). The path is very straight and leads along an asphalt road for about 3 km to the same wading forest as the approach from Butovice.

Access from New Village

Road from Prague's Nová ves district is best for access by car (parking street K Opatřilce, Liščí, Zaječí). It leads along the road towards the Prokop valley. In the first meadow on the right in the street K Opatřilce, there is a path down which we will go down and find ourselves at a well with drinking water. Then the procedure is already known.

Access from Klukovice

From Klukovice, the best way to get to the Borová skála sector is from Barrandovo and bus line 230 (Klukovice stop). We go down Do Klukovice street to its end, where there is an intersection and a path towards the Prokop valley. We will go along the road (approx brewery Prokopák) up to the valley, where we join the asphalt road leading to Hlubočep, where we turn left. The subsequent procedure is then the same as for the other routes.

public transport:
Metro: Nové Butovice, Jinonice
Train: Prague-Holyně, Prague-Jinonice, Prague-Žvahov
Bus stops: Ovčí hájek (Butovice), Malá Ohrada, Klukovice, Jinonice

Parking:
Nové Butovice: K Opatřilce, Zaječí and Liščí streets
Klukovice: Ulice Do Klukovice, V Klukovice, Bublavská, Dasnická
Hlubočepy: Hlubočepská Street, Pod Žvahovem, Pod Útesy