Small plate - Hlubočepské plates

Routes, Hlubočepské plates, Guide, Sport climbing

Hlubočepské plates

Number of trips: 12
Height: 17m
Rock: Limestone
Trip Type: Laid down
GPS: 50.0431111N, 14.3908611E
public transport: bus 120, 258, train Prague – Žvahov, Prague – Hlubočepy
Parking: Hlubočepská Street and Pod Žvahovem Street
Pdf guide: here

Malá plotna is the smallest sector of the Hlubočepská plotna area. It is approximately seventeen meters long and is located at the foot of the Left Plate. The small plate is an ideal place to prepare and warm up before climbing one of the longer plate routes. Plate climbing on very small steps and holds is ideal for more advanced climbers and those who want to learn this style. The rock does not crumble much here, but there is still a risk of stones and debris falling from the top of the Left Plate. A helmet is therefore recommended (as with the other two sectors).
Climbing is subject pravidlům skalního lezení.
Pdf průvodce here.

Malá plotna Hlubočepské plotny praha průvodce vyznačené cesty topo 12 nových odjištěných cest

Small plate:

GPS: 50.0431111N, 14.3908611E
New Year's Eve (1)

3 (IV-)

The first path of a small plate and at the same time also the lightest. It leads through the overgrown slope up large steps to abseiling. The path is not gated or maintained, so take extra care of the plants and dirt.

Length: 14m
Insurance: traditional + salty
Author: Robert Hons, L. Cipra, 1987

Convertible (2)

5a (VI)

The cabriolet is the first unlocked path from the left and the boarding at the first black arrow. The path is divided into two sections. The first is plate climbing unlocked with two bolts. It is a difficult part of the paths climbed over the edge and very small steps. The second part is behind the bend (behind the second bolt). It is an ascent via an inclined plate for abseiling.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Robert Hons, R. Hons, 1987

Left (3)

6a (VI+)

The entrance to the road is at the second arrow from the left. The climber has a challenging first segment of plate climbing ahead of him on small steps and an edge. In this part, it is unlocked with two bolts. After the break behind the second bolt, there is a transition to a simpler plate ascent for abseiling. Here it is possible to be secured on the secondary road bolt No. 4.

Length: 16m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Petr Anelt, P. Růžička, 1987

Embarrassment (4)

6c+ (VIII-)

Embarrassment is the most difficult path in the Malá plotna sector. The climb is divided into two parts with the crux in the segment between the two edges. The climber is unlocked with three bolts. The first two are in the bottom section. The third is a few meters below the abseil (shared with route no. 3).

Length: 17m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: O. Malý, 1987

Path for the lame (5)

6b+ (VII+)

The entrance to this route is at the lowest point of the plate, to the right of the climbing permission arrows (the entrance is marked with an arrow). The climber has the second most difficult route in front of him situated between two small cracks. It is secured by two belays in the first segment and one in the segment before abseiling. The last borhák and abseiling are shared with route no. 6.

Length: 17m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Petr Anelt, 1987

Bakery (6)

6a+ (VII-)

Bejkárna is the last route with a start below the slope. It leads in a straight line of two rivets and, after a bend, turns slightly to the left over the borhák to a joint abseil with the secondary route.

Length: 16m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Petr Anelt, 1987

milk (7)

6b (VIII)

The entrance to this path is at the beginning of the slope. The climber has fifteen meters of climbing ahead of him on good holds and steps along the crack to abseil. The path is secured by three rivets (the first two are crossed by a crack) for the rappelling itself. The top part of the wall tends to crumble.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: Robert Hons, 1987

Direct variant (8)

6a (VI+)

A path with a start on a slope (often considered a more difficult variant of the Lucina path). It leads in front of one rivet and a borhák to the abseiling on the left, from the abseiling of the Lucina route. The road is crumbly at the top! A helmet is recommended.

Length: 17m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: O. Malý, 1987

Lucina (9)

5a (VI)

The entrance to the road is roughly in the middle of the slope. The climber is unlocked with two bolts in the first half and one bolt in the second. The climb ends with abseiling (together with route no. 8). In the upper half below the salt flat, the rock breaks and crumbles. We recommend caution and a helmet.

Length: 15 m
Insurance: 3 + salt shaker
Author: V. Kolařík, L. Cipra, 1987

Unwanted (10)

5a (VI-)

The third route from the top of the escarpment is one of the easier ones on the plateau. It is unlocked with two bolts and a spring washer. But the first bolt is relatively high. However, the path to it leads along fairly good steps and holds. There is a risk of slight brittleness and crumbliness at the top.

Length: 13m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Petr Anelt, 1987

Argumentative (11)

5a (VI-)

The entrance to this road is just to the left of road no. 12. The climb turns slightly to the left to the Unwanted path and then back to the right. The climber is unlocked with two bolts and ends at the rappel. The road itself is slightly squeezed between two surrounding roads and there is a "threat" of accidentally stepping on another line.

Length: 11m
Insurance: 2 + salt shaker
Author: Petr Anelt, 1987

The road through Sabaka(12)

4 (IN-)

The last road of the Malá Platna sector and the first road from the right. It is a simple plate climbing over two rivets for joint abseiling with the Titanka route. The right edge of the plate is crumbling. The road is excellent for connecting with the right roads of the Levá plotna sector.

Length: 9m
Insurance: 1 + salt shaker
Author: Robert Hons, L. Cipra, 1986

Lezecký průvodce je takédostupný v pdf formatu na portálu Patreon.com. TOPO průvodce pražskými lezeckými oblastmi
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Access:

Malá plotna is the smallest sector in the climbing area of Hlubočepská plotna. It is located exactly under the left plate and about 650 meters from the Prague-Žvahov train station. You can get to the sector, just like the right plate, in three main ways.

Northern access road is the least used. It leads from Prague 5 through a meadow with astral circles and down the slope towards Hlubočepy's Skalnička Garden and K Dalejím Street. Just before connecting to the asphalt road from the footpath, however, you need to turn onto the footpath between the trees (GPS: 50°02'34.3″N 14°23'23.3″E). On foot we reach the platform overlooking the left plate. On the right side there are paths leading down from the precipice, along which we go down and turn left into a small canyon. This will get us under the small and left plate.

South-East route it leads from the stop of buses 120 and 258. If you came in the direction of travel to Radotín, we recommend going back a few meters against the direction of travel and turning left into Hlubočepská street and the next right turn into Pod útesy street. At the end of this street, turn right again and join the street Ke Hřbitovu, which leads uphill. If you arrived in the direction of Na Knížecí, it is faster to go along Slivenecká Street, which you will see on the left in front of you in the direction of travel. Through here you will come to a crossroads, where you turn left into Ke Hřbitovu street and then the first street on the right.

Both options will take you to the train tracks at the top of the hill. After those, head left until you reach the left plate. We emphasize that this is an active railway, watch out for the train! There are two possible approaches from this direction. One on the slope directly below the plate (steep and loose) and the other a few meters further to the left on a gentle slope (longer but more comfortable).

South Road leads along Hlubočepská street. It is necessary to pass under the semmering, behind which you can conveniently parallel park for free. After semmering, the climber goes down the first street to the right along K Dalejím street and then after the pub Hurdálková chýše jedová around the rock to the right again, where he comes to the fork next to the Skalničková garden of Hlubočepy. He takes the path to the right again and continues until, you guessed it, he hits a well-trodden path through the trees on the right. The same as in the case of the approach from the north of the meadow.

public transport: Bus stop 120, 258 Nádraží Hlubočepy, train stations Prague – Žvahov and Prague – Hlubočepy

Parking: Hlubočepská Street behind Semmering, Pod Žvahovem, Pod Útesy

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