Divoká Šárka: Oranžový okruh (V3-V4)

Oranžový okruh je trasa spojující boulder problémy – obtížností V3-V4 – sektorů Wild Sárky do jedné trasy. Délka hlavní trasy je lehce přes 2 km, celý okruh je pak kolem 7 km. Cesty mezi sektory jsou dobré a zmapované. Dopadiště jsou dobrá a bezpečná. Na valnou většinu sektorů zde stačí jedna bouldermatka. Výjimka je sektor Highball, který je opravdu vysoký.

Jak je vidět z počtu sektorů, oranžový okruh obsahuje téměř vše, co Divoká Šárka nabízí. V rámci tohoto okruhu (a článku) jsme vytáhli pouze ty lepší cesty. Celkem se dá v této kategorii najít lehce pod 80 linií. Toto TOPO nabízí pouze 58 cest. Pokud byste chtěli vylézt vše, TOPO na sektory jsou nalinkované v průběhu článku. Spolu s tím jsme u sektorů, které jsou větší, uvedli kolik cest celkem zde v kategorii V3-V4 najdete.

Pdf guide: here
Fyzický průvodce: here

Sector	Number of rocks	Number of trips	GPS
Highball	1	3	GPS: 50.0942583N, 14.3213903E
Jug Gorge	1	1	50.0948611N, 14.3205000E
The right slope of the gorge	1	2	50.095202N, 14.322290E
Devil's pants	1	2	50.1020191N, 14.3265953E
The last rock	2	3	50.1002789N, 14.3275716E
BOOMerang	1	3	50.0986603N, 14.3249181E
Under Nebušice	10	27	50.1039565N, 14.3309372E
Arrhythmia	7	12	50.1040310N, 14.3379309E
Nebušicky viewpoint	1	3	50.103576N, 14.321442E
The lost massif	1	2	50.1024573N, 14.3205928E

Oranžový okruh, V3-V4

Devil's pants

Oranžový okruh hostuje na Pants 2 cesty na dvou skalách. Na všechny linie zde stačí jedna bouldermatka. Skály jsou jižně orientované a kryté pod stromy. Sektor ale patří k těm vlhčím a vysychá pomalu. Skály je kousek od hlavní turistické cesty v Divoké Šárce a kousek od tekoucí vody Šáreckého potoka. Lézt se dá i v létě. Do 1 km je od sektoru U Veselík swimming pool and Inn Dívčí Skok (support them).

Total is in the sector 5 cest V3-V4.

Devil's stick

GPS: 50.1020191N, 14.3265953E

Feeder (1)

V2 (V+)

The problem is starting from a standing position with your feet on the main massif (without the use of pre-rocks). The problem runs up along the edge to a notch about half a meter from the top. In the notch, the climber gets over the edge and reaches the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

ozone hole (2)

V8 (7b)

The start of the problem is from standing under the left edge. The problem leads to the right, through a hole in the rock and then diagonally to the right to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Lukáš Jurča, 2020

Wormhole Escape (3)

V3 (6a+)

Bouldering begins with one hand in the hole and the other hand perpendicularly below it. The path is a traverse to the left up to path No. 1 and the one to the climb. The path is without stepping stones and without precipice.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Rose or leather (4)

V5 (6c+)

This problem starts (also) from the hole in the middle of the rock. From there it leads (without steps) diagonally to the left and to a climb. Part of the boulder is a jump to the hold on the left side of the rock.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Pavel Payne, 2011

A Walk Through Thorns (5)

V4 (6b+)

Here, the climber starts again with his hand in the middle hole while his other hand is on the bottom right rail. The entire path is without stepping stones and without precipice. It traverses to the right to the edge, over which the boulder is climbed. Feet must not go over the edge of the rock.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Rose or Leather SD (6)

V7/V8 (7a+/7b)

The journey begins with a sitting start. The climber starts on the bar and in the side pull in the gap. Subsequently, it continues to the left through small holes to route No. 4, which the climber can reach to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Cermak, 2011

Passing through the Wormhole (7)

V7 (7a+)

The path starts from a seat on the right side of the stone (the start is the same as the previous problem). The whole problem is the connection of roads No. 6, No. 3 and No. 1. until the exit.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2017

Ozone (8)

V9 (7c)

Ozone starts from a sitting position, similar to the previous 2 routes. The difference is that the hole in the middle of the rock must not be used. The path is quite straight and leads straight up to the climb. Neither of the edges may be used for climbing.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Stay Under the Edge (9)

V1 (IN)

The last route of the sector and also one of the easiest. The start is from a standing position with hands in the curves and bars behind the right edge. The path skirts the edge all the way to the exit. The climber should not get his center of gravity over the edge, but he is allowed to putt himself over the edge.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Boulder has a sitting variant that rises to V1/V2 (5+)

Skalky below Nebušice

As many know Skalky below Nebušice jsou největší sektor v Šárce. Není tedy překvapivé, že je zde oranžový okruh zastoupen nejvíce. Je tu celkem 27 cest na 10ti skalkách. Plošně by měla stačit jedna bouldermatka. U skalek tohoto sektoru jsou problematická klíšťata. Doporučujeme tedy repelent. Skály jsou orientovány na jih, ale jsou kryté lesem, což umožňuje i lezení v létě. Vysychají ale o něco pomaleji. Není zde tekoucí voda, pod svahem je ale Šárecký potok. Albert v Nebušicích je 1 km on foot, you can stock up on water and food here.

Total is in the sector 27 cest V3-V4.

Toothy

GPS: 50.1041421N, 14.3309196E

Glumus (1)

V1 (5)

From sitting at the edge under the overhang and straight up to the plate and to the exit. Watch out for the rock behind you. without stepping on yourself.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Gollum seated (2)

V1 (5)

The climber goes from sitting on the edge, feet are in the wall. Traverse to the right and over the edge to the climb. Without a mini step at the entrance.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Gollum Standing (3)

GB (3)

From standing at the edge and over it straight to the top.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Gollum Standing SD (3.1)

V4 (6B)

From sitting in the middle of the wall and into the path of Gollum standing, that way to the top. No left edge. The initial rails of the original path are broken off, now the line is lighter.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Semtex (4)

V4 (6B+)

Traverse to the left, start in the joint, to the plate and to the climb. The line is edgeless.

Line length: 7m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Top truffle

GPS: 50.1040321N, 14.3308768E

Samorost (1)

V3 (6A+)

The climber starts in a seated position with the right hand on the edge and the left hand in the side-grip. No climbing branch.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2017

Zen garden (2)

V3 (6A+)

From a sitting position with the left hand on the wave and the right hand on the sharp side. From that to the stove and to the exit.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2017

Dwarf

GPS: 50.1039565N, 14.3309372E

Dwarf Morning (1)

V3 (6A)

Ascent from lying down with hands on the edge, feet on the stone. By rolling onto the stove and onto the hatch. Without foot steps and side stone.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Yarpen Zigrin (2)

V6 (7A)

Ascent like a boulder Dwarven morning. Traverse to the right over the shelf to the start of the Mithril line and then to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2015

Behind the Nose (3)

V1 (5)

From standing at the front edge. Ascent to the top and climbing. Do not lean with your center of gravity to the left of the edge.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Behind the Nose SD (3.1)

V4 (6B)

Variant on the Za Nosem line. Start from a sitting position from a round ledge and follow the edge to a climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Steve has a problem (4)

V5 (6C+)

Ascent as on Mithril and then a traverse to the left to the ascent of the Dwarf morning line and thus to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Majdloch, Fabrizio, 2020

Mithril (5)

V4 (6B)

The climber starts from a seated position with his hands on prominent ledges above the edge. Over the edge and onto the ledge. No treads.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Mithril low (5.1)

V4 (6B+)

Like Mithril, but starting almost lying down from the lower bar.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Avengers

GPS: 50.1035711N, 14.3308788E

Natasha (1)

V4 (6B)

From the seat, from the handrail and along the left edge to the exit.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Hulk (2)

V5 (6C+)

Start like Natasha, but jump from the right to the top and climb out.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Thor's Hammer (3)

V9 (7C)

Ascent from a sitting position from marked grips to a small handrail. Then traverse to the left to the Hulk line and then to the climb. The line is without a good decent edge and holds around the joint.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Ninos (4)

V9 (7C)

Boarding as on the previous trip. From the handrail, along the wall to the left to the exit. The line is without a good edge and holds around the seam.
Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Jarvis (5)

V4 (6B)

Climbing from a sitting position from the handrail and then up a small corner and along the ledges to the exit. The line has no right and top edges.
Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Fabrizio, Majdloch, 2020

Ghost Rider (6)

V5 (6C+)

Getting up from a sitting position from the handrail and up. Then a small traverse to the left to the Ninos road and the one to the climb.
Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Martin Válek, 2017

Wasps (7)

V1 (5A)

From a seat like no. 6 and after holding onto the pillar to the climb. No right edge.
Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Pitchoid

GPS: 50.1038101N, 14.3310679E

Square angle (1)

V3 (6A)

From a seat at the arrow and without an edge until climbing.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Šimon Horáček, 2021

Budgies (2)

V4 (6B)

Boarding from a seat under the arrow. Left-hander on the corner behind the edge, right-hander on the bar.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2021

Mega drink (3)

V6 (7A)

From under the arrow from the seat, to the Napicu line and then to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Adam Zdráhal, 2021

I will drink (4)

V5 (6C)

The line is from the seat from under the arrows and then directly to the climb. A good rail below the top edge or left handholds in the corner may not be taken.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Adam Zdráhal, 2021

Ceiling

GPS: 50.1039377N, 14.3313921E

Banana bread power (1)

V5 (6C)

Getting up from a sitting position in a handrail. Then through the ceiling and over the left edge to the exit. Without the right edge and handles behind it.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Majdloch, Fabrizio, Blazek, 2020

Baboffka (2)

V4 (6B+)

Entry as line no.1. then by foot and through the pocket to the exit. Both edges may be used.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Majdloch, Fabrizio, Blazek, 2020

Light pressures (3)

V5 (6C+)

The same entrance, but through the right part of the ceiling and to the exit. Without using an edge.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Petr Hricák, 2020

Tranka Palanka (4)

V4 (6B)

From the slats from the seat and straight up to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Fabrizio, Weremczuk, 2020

There were thorns (5)

V3 (6A)

Ascent under the arrow on the edge and along the edge to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2020

Parasol

GPS: 50.1040272N, 14.3315531E

Whining Dog (1)

V4 (6B)

The line starts lying down with the left hand directly underneath and the right hand pointed behind the edge. Lift from the slats and straight up to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Majdloch, Hricák, 2021

Antifix (2)

V3 (6A+)

Ascent from the seat from the slats and over the edge to the exit.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Jurča, 2018

Lager (3)

V4 (6B)

From lying under the arrow and up the edge to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Stanislav Majdloch, 2021

Dancing Days (4)

V8 (7B)

The line is a traverse from the right part of the rock to the left. It starts from the bar and ends in a good handrail. The line is without upper edges and handles.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2016

Watchmaker

GPS: 50.1040489N, 14.3315328E

Unclimbed climbs (1)

V3 (6A)

From the good handrail up to the ledge and after it traverse to the right to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Lukáš Jurča, 2018

In 6 min 12 (2)

V4 (6B+)

Climb onto the handrail and then diagonally to the right to the shelf and onto the climb. The line is without handrails from route No. 1.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Lukáš Jurča, 2018

Searching for Lost Time (3)

V6 (7A)

Traverse to the right from the left starting handle to the edge and then to the climb. The line is without the low half of the front rock at the right edge.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Kryštof Pazderka, 2021

Tilted (4)

V4 (6B)

Boarding as previous trips. A short traverse to the right and dynamically to the edge and to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Majdloch, Hricák, 2021

Astrology (5)

V4 (6B+)

From a seat, from the handles and lift straight up to the top. The line is free of initial catches of other lines.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Radek Záveský, 2021

Hands without Hands (6)

V4 (6B+)

Ascent in a good handhold and up the right edge to the climb. No steps outside the main rock.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Eš, 2021

Harbor

GPS: 50.1045106N, 14.3317924E

Kong (1)

V2 (5+)

Ascent from a seat from a sloper and traverse to the left.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Krov, 2023

Long or short (2)

V1 (5)

Start as the previous route and straight up to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: David Zuza, 2023

King Kong (3)

V4 (6B)

From the handles, from the seat. After lifting, a logical traverse to the left to the edge and the one to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Krov, 2023

Julča (4)

V3 (6A)

From the seat, from the handrails and along the edge to the climb. Without left pates and rolling into the plate.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Radek Záveský, 2021

Black mirror (5)

V1 (5)

The start is like Julča, but the climber rolls into the slab, which he reaches for the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Tomáš Kozohorský, 2021

white widow (6)

V2 (5+)

The ascent is from the seat under the arrow and along the edge to the left to the climb. Do not use the left pre-rock and do not roll into the plate.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Zdráhal, Blazek, 2021

Close the claw (7)

V1 (5)

From the handles from a seat under the arrow and up to the last handle.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Rosová, Záveský, 2021

StarWars

Star Wars

GPS: 50.1042243N, 14.3317526E

R2D2 (1)

V2 (5+)

Ascent from a sitting position with the left hand on the bar at the left edge and the right hand on the side pull. Then over the left edge and onto the exit. Having to slip around the tree.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2018

To the Stars (2)

V3 (6A+)

Start as R2D2, over the edge and rails of the Last Jedi path to the Bow path and the climb. No good grab bars at the top.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2018

The Last Jedi (3)

V7 (7A+)

With the left hand in the crotch and the right hand on the marked bar, from a sitting position. Then straight up to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Cermak, 2017

Bow (4)

V5 (6C)

From the slats from the seat and straight up to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Cermak, 2017

The Rise of Skywalker (5)

V3 (6A)

Nebušicky viewpoint

Nebušicky viewpoint je dobře známý boulderingový sektor v Divoké Šárce. Oranžový sektor zde má zastávku na jednom kameni, na kterém jsou 3 lezecké linie. Sektor je na vrcholu Nebušické vyhlídky. Není krytý od slunce a lezení v létě je tu velice parné a nepříjemné. Dopadište jsou ale dobrá – a kamenitá, takže klíšťata nejsou problém – a stačí zde jedna bouldermatka. Sektor je zhruba 1,3 km daleko od Alberu Nebušice, ve kterém se dá zásobit. Blíž je ale Hostinec – 800 m – který doporučujeme.

Total is in the sector 7 cest V3-V4.

View

GPS: 50.1034792N, 14.3216442E

Sightseeing crush (5)

V4 (6b+)

The climber starts from a sitting position from the shelf. From there, via a side pull to the left, it goes over the edge and straight up to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2022

Disappointment (6)

V3 (6A)

The start is from a sitting position with your hands on the edge. Then straight up through a good pocket and to the left using the bend behind the edge for a climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kulhanek, 2023

Push and Don't Run (7)

V3 (6a)

Boulder starts from a seated position from the shelf. From here the climber goes to the right over the rail and the pocket and then over the edge to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2022

Rocks behind Aritma

Oranžový okruh se pojí s Arithm na sedmi skalách, na kterých najdete celkem 12 cest mezi V3-V4. Na všechny cesty tu stačí jedna bouldermatka. Dopadišťe jsou dobrá a rovná, jen dbejte na zvýšenou opatrnost při pohybování na Horním Štandu. Sektor je na slunci a hojně krytý před větrem. Skály jsou orientované na západ a rychle vysychají. Bohužel zde není přístup k vodě. Doporučujeme si vzít hojně vlastní. Blízko je restaurace Chestnut – 1 km.

Total is in the sector 18 cest V3-V4.

Pie cake

GPS: 50.1041334N, 14.3380473E

Molding (1)

V5 (6C+)

The line starts from the grips marked with dots, from a seated position. It is followed by a lift to a sharp corner and then straight up to the top. Boulder has no right edge.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Left wing (2)

V1 (5)

The ascent to the boulder is at the edge with your feet on the pre-rock. The line leads along the edge to the exit, without stepping on another stone.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Right wing (3)

V0 (4)

The start of the boulder is with your feet on the pre-rock at the edge. Subsequently, the climber goes up the slab, without stepping on the joint.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Right Wing SD (3.1)

V3 (6A+)

Boarding the line is from a sitting position. It follows the Right Wing path, which it reaches to the top. In this case, however, a block behind the rock is allowed for the feet.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Zdeněk Joska, 2011

Baba game (4)

V7 (7A+)

Boarding is the same as on the Right Wing SD line. Subsequently, it continues upwards without the left edge and holds behind it to the top.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Left Wing SD (5)

V3 (6A+)

The line is an extension of the Left Wing boulder. The ascent is on the plate to the right, from which the climber continues to the left and to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Zdeněk Joska, 2011

Muffins

GPS: 50.1041087N, 14.3379028E

Lunar Journey (1)

V8 (7B)

Climb from the marked holds and then traverse to the right, past the stone. Climbing is only allowed from the handholds at the end of the line.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Gravity (2)

V4 (6B)

Boulder is about zedu from under the darts, with the left hand on the edge and the right hand on the sloper on the edge. The line is a climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Orbit (3)

V4 (6B+)

The approach is with the right hand from under the edge and the left hand on the edge. Here, too, it is a boulder with climbing.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Buchta I

GPS: 50.1040310N, 14.3379309E

Snack (1)

GB (3)

The line is from standing on the precipice and goes straight to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

SD treat (1.1)

V4 (6B+)

The line begins with a power start from a sitting position, without pre-rocks, and connects to boulder no. 1. We hear you watch out for the rock behind you.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Termination (2)

V3 (6A)

The start is from a sitting position, without pre-rock and rock behind the joint, from a good horizontal joint. Followed by a traverse to the left behind the edge.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Stateswoman (3)

V3 (6A)

Boarding is the same as on the previous line. Subsequently, it leads straight up, without a joint, after good holds to the top and climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Bag Bug (4)

GB (3)

From soy at the bottom of the rock, line straight up to the climb. Be careful of the rock behind you when boarding.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Desserts

GPS: 50.1040383N, 14.3379553E

Crochet hook (1)

V3 (6A+)

Start under the arrow with the left hand in the joint and the right hand on the edge. Then I overhang directly to the top, without climbing to the right over the edge.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2021

lift your ass (2)

V4 (6B)

Ascent from a sitting position with the right hand on the curve and the left hand on a small bar. Then pick it up and get out.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Slider (3)

V4 (6B)

Climb under the arrow and traverse to the left around the stone.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Presser (4)

V2 (5+)

Climb under the arrow and over the edge to the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

vice versa (5)

V8 (7B+)

Ascent from the hold under road no. 3. Then traverse left to the end of the stone. The upper edge with the hands is allowed up to the joint, the legs are allowed.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Matej Svojka, 2015

Beta (5.1)

V11 (8A)

The line is the same as Vice versa, but completely without the upper edge in front of the joint.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Matej Svojka, 2015

Mazanec Spodní část

Grease the lower part

GPS: 50.1039694N, 14.3384606E

Warm-up (1)

V1 (5)

From a sitting position, from defined holds and without climbing edges.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Poštolčí vejce SD (2.1)

V4 (6B+)

Left-handed on the lower left side edge and right on the slat in the gap. Feet only on the main rock. Without pre-rocks and steps to the climb.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Poštolčí vejce (2)

V0 (4)

The start is marked by the feet on the pre-rock. From it diagonally to the left to the exit. Do not use the large pre-rock on the left.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Mazanec upper stand

GPS: 50.1039694N, 14.3384606E

Matterhorn Left wall (1)

GB (3)

From defined holds along the edge of the left wall to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Matterhorn Left wall SD (2)

V1 (5)

Variant of the first line, but here it starts from a sitting position.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Matterhorn (3)

V0 (4)

In the middle of the left wall to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Relegation (4)

GB (4)

A significant gap to the top.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Intimate (5)

V5 (6C)

Climbing from a seat under the arrow and then to the left and without a good handhold at the overhang to the top. Dangerous landing site around the left rock. We recommend 2 bouldering mats.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Thistle (6)

V2 (5+)

Climb under the arrow and up over the overhang.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Michal Janeček

Non-carol (7)

V3 (6A)

Ascent from sitting under the arrow and the center of the wall upwards.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Lukáš Blažek, 2021

The lost massif

The lost massif je jedna skála, na které najdete 2 cesty oranžového okruhu. Masiv je orientován na jih, a je ve stínu stromů a skal. Dá se tu lézt i v létě. Je pouze pár metrů do Šáreckého potoka a hlavní turistické cesty. Dopadiště je relativně dobré a stále se zlepšuje. Stačí tu jen jedna (větší) bouldermatka. Do 500 metrů je koupaliště a Hostinec.

The lost massif

GPS: 50.1024573N, 14.3205928E

Traverse (1)

V8 (7B)

Traverse with a seat from the corner, continues to the right, without the edge of the Baked Hip Hop line. It connects to the Forced parade route and reaches the climb. The line is without pre-rocks and pates

Line length: 8m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Mike Petrik, 2022

Hip Hop Underground (2.1)

V4 (6B+)

The line is from a sitting position with the left hand in the joint in the corner and the right hand on the edge. It comes down just like the mother's way.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Mike Petrik, 2022

Spring Hip Hop (2)

V2 (6a)

The first line of the sector starts from the handholds on the left side of the edge. They have to jump into the handrails, then the climber reaches the top and the climb. Shorter climbers will have a problem here.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Reverse (3)

V8 (7B)

Ascent from a sitting position as lines 4, 5 and 6. From this traverse to the left without a good edge of the Baked Hip Hop line. Without pre-rocks and pates.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Mike Petrik, 2022

Baked Hip Hop (4)

V4 (6B+)

Bouldering starts from a seated position, with hands clasped. From there, you follow the gap to the edge, which you traverse to the left to path No. 1, which you reach on the climb. Good holds above the edge must not be used.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Baked corner (5)

V1 (5)

The baked corner starts in the same way as route no. 2, with the hands in the joint from a sitting position. The climber continues around the gap to the top and to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Unknown

Forced parade (6)

V1/V2 (5/5+)

The forced parade is the last line starting in the same way as No. 2 and 3. But after the start, the climber turns to the right onto a rock block. By doing so, with the joint enabled, the climber gets to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Unknown

Ride a bare rock up your ass (7)

V0 (4)

This, the second easiest path of the sector, leads through the middle of the plateau to the right of the main paths. After good grips on the plate, the climber gets to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Tourist (8)

Vb (3)

The last line of this part of the rock is also the easiest line of the sector. It leads to the right of path No. 5, along the more rugged parts of the rock.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Unknown

Soutěska Džbán a Pravý svah

Jug Gorge má uvnitř sebe a na Pravém svahu celkem tři cesty na oranžovém okruhu. Cesty jsou na dvou malých skalkách, které nejsou kryté od slunce, tudíž se zde v létě leze velice obtížně, kvůli pálivému slunci a vysoké trávě (pozor na klíšťata). Sektory jsou jen pár set metrů od McDonald´s a pár desítek od sektoru Highball. Zvažte však podpoření koupaliště a Hostince uvnitř Šárky.

Nineteen

GPS: 50.0948611N, 14.3205000E

jump in (1)

V0 (4+)

The only dynamic path of the sector. You start your jump from a standing position on a large edge. From there, the climber jumps to the edge or hold in one dynamic movement, from which he then tops out on the shelf. The road has no left wall.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kulhanek, 2022

Captain Hook (2)

V2 (5+)

The beginning of the boulder is hanging from the heel on a small shelf and with the hands on the bottom edge. The climber continues along the edge to its end, from where, with the help of a small edge, he tops out on a slippery shelf. The pre-rock and both inner edges of the rock are prohibited here.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Kulhanek, 2022

Mr. Smee (2.1)

V3 (6a)

It is an extension of the Captain Hook line. The climber starts with the left hand on the rounded edge and the right hand on the sharp bar. From there, the climber traverses to the right, over the edge of the rock to the entrance to the Kapitán Hák line, which he can reach. The line is without pre-rock.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Kulhanek, 2022

Admiral Paw (3)

V1 (5)

Second wall

GPS: 50.0953588N, 14.3224146E

Beware of flowers (1)

V3 (6a)

The longest path in the area, Pay attention to the flowers, is a traverse from the left shelf to the "Sárecká pohoda" path, which the climber can take to the top. The top edge must not be used on the way and damage the flowers.

Line length: 5 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author:Filip Zaoral, 2013

Flower Hugger (1.1)

V3 (6a+)

This path is mostly the same as its original. However, it is extended by a meter. The same restrictions apply here as for the previous trip.

Line length: 6 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author:Filip Zaoral, 2013

Soccer well-being (2)

V1 (5)

The path leads through the highest point of the wall. The climber starts from a standing position and goes straight to the top. The left edge may be taken, but the climber must not reach over it with the center of gravity.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author:Unknown

BOOMerang

BOOMerang je severně orientovaná skála na vrcholu opačného konce údolí (naproti Čertově nohavicím). Jsou tu dvě cesty v rámci oranžového okruhu. Byť je dopadiště relativně dobré, může se hodit si vzít malý sitpad to cover protruding stones. The sector is covered and you can comfortably climb here in the summer. The rock is at the top of the massif, so it is the farthest from the "fulcrums". The Inn is almost a kilometer away, as is MC Donald's on the opposite side of Šárka (but it is uphill, so support the Inn!).

Levá stěna; BOOMerang

BOOMerang

GPS: 50.0986603N, 14.3249181E

Lactose (1)

V4 (6b+)

The first boulder of the BOOMerang sector, Laktos is very straightforward. It starts in sharp holes. From these, the climber must get straight up through the middle of the wall to the climb. The edge and the handle on the left under the gutter are prohibited.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Jan Mastík, 2011

Lactose reverse (2)

V7 (7a+)

The beginning of the problem is the same as the previous one. Here, however, it is about encircling the entire rock without the use of pre-rocks and any treading outside the main massif.

Line length: 7m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Michal Janeček, 2015

Kerosene Prince (3)

V4 (6b+)

Boulder is from sitting from side pulls. It follows through a series of ledges to a hatch. It is important here to be careful of the rocks around the main line. It is ideal to cover or have catchers.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Jan Mastík, 2011

Mc Sokol (4)

V1 (5)

The line leading through the joint is very clear. Here you start from a sitting position and then continue with a joint to climb. The right edge of the rock or any of the pre-rocks may not be used here.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Alena Grasserova, 2021

Return of the Purple Kangaroo (5)

V6 (7a)

This is the second of the traverses in this sector. It starts from a seat at the right edge and leads to the left until it joins the path No. 1 Laktos. After that, he reaches the exit.

Line length: 6m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Honza Mastík, 2011

Pravý kout, BOOMerang

BOOMerang

GPS: 50.0986603N, 14.3249181E

Lactose reverse (2)

V7 (7a+)

Blade (6)

V1 (5)

A short overhang path, the Blade starts from the holds below the arrow and then leads straight up over the overhang and a sharp edge to the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Charinga (7)

V4 (6b)

The last route of the sector, Čaringa starts from a sitting position from good holds. It then continues slightly diagonally to the left to the center of the wall, where it connects to a long stretch (dyno if you are small) to the upper edge. Boulder is without the left edge of the holds on the left. Due to the nature of the problem, it is better to have catchers.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Jan Mastík, 2011

The last rock

The last rock je jeden z větších Šáreckých sektorů, na oranžovém okruhu. Na dvou skalách tu jsou 4 cesty okruhu. Skály jsou smíšeně orientovány a nejsou příliš kryty před sluncem. V létě se zde lézt dá, ale pouze s dostatkem vody. Dopadiště jsou malá ale dobrá, stačí často jen jedna bouldermatka. Na poslední vyhlídce doporučujeme větší opatrnost na boulderu Vyhlídka. Lezení je zde zhruba 800 m. daleko od hostince, který je záchranný bod.

Total are in the sector 4 cesty V3-V4.

Houska Čelo

Bun

GPS: 50.1002789N, 14.3275716E

Flint (1)

V2 (5+)

The start of the boulder is from a sitting position, with the right hand on the edge and on a good bar. From the seat, the climber continues to the left up to the climb. Not a single stone outside the main massif may be used. Watch out for rear impact, catcher recommended.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Forgotten Beauty (2)

V3 (6a+)

Boulder is from a seated position, with his hands under the arrow. The climber goes straight up the middle wall. Round holds may be used here behind the right edge, but may not be climbed over any edge.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Zbyněk Pražák, 2012

Ticks (3)

V3 (6a)

This boulder is an extension of route no.1. Access to it is from the Pro Eliška route (variant from the seat). From there, the climber traverses to the right to the Pazourek path, which reaches the top.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Bun

GPS: 50.1002789N, 14.3275716E

For Eliška (4)

V1 (5)

Boulder from a sitting position from good holds to the right and on the edge. The climber then continues slightly to the right and onto the climb.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Tai Chi Traverse (5)

V0 (4)

The path begins on a good, sloping handrail. From there, the climber traverses to the right to the end of the rock, where he reaches the climb.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Ant (6)

V1 (5a)

An ant is a path that is entered from a long ledge at the bottom of the rock. Taller climbers will be able to start the route from a sitting position. Subsequently, it continues straight up over the rounded edge of the peak.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

Caterpillar (7)

VB- (2)

The caterpillar is the shortest and lightest line of the sector. The climber climbs on the broken part of the rock on the right and climbs straight up to the exit. Rock blocks other than the main rock may not be used when climbing.

Line length: 2 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek 2010

View

The last prospect

GPS: 50.1002619N, 14.3269963E

Athletes in action (1)

V2 (5+)

The ascent to the boulder is from a crouch on a mini-rock, on the right under the overhang. The climber has both hands on a small shelf. The line leads along the edge of the left corner and before the overhang to the top. The path is without steps and without climbing over the edge.

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2010

Wedge Levite (2)

V4 (6b)

Boulder is from sitting with your feet in the wall. The hands are on small slats by the shelf. From there, the progression is walled as with the "mother" line

Line length: 3 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Highball

Highball je nejvyšší sektor Šárky a je potřeba k němu i tak přistupovat. Dolez je do výšky 8 metrů, takže doporučujeme opatrnost a chytače. Oranžový okruh zde má tři linie. Dvě z nich vedou přímo přes převis. Sektor je na slunci a nejlépe dostupný ze všech sektorů na tomto okruhu (lehce přes 400 m od stanice Divoká Šárka). Skála je jižně orientovaná a rychle vysychá. Vrch je však permanentně pokryt mechem.

Total are in the sector 3 ways V3-V4.

Highball, Divoká Sárka, boudering, VARP

Highball Pitcher

GPS: 50.0942583N, 14.3213903E

Purring Smurf (1.1)

V5 (6c+)

Start from sitting on the right bar and mini shelf. The climber follows the first part of the Navel-headed Bafunář problem, which is then extended by a traverse to the left to the last rail. Climbing over the plate.

Line length: 8m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Kulajta, 2011

Belly Puffer (1)

V3 (6a)

The problem is from sitting just like the Funcící Bafunář (slats and mini-shelves). From it, the climber traverses diagonally to the left under the "navel" of the boulder, through which he climbs to the top to the climb. There is a tree stump hidden in the grass below the line, which should be covered by the mother before climbing.

Line length: 6m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Válek, 2011

Slide (2)

GB (III)

The slide is the easiest line on the highball Jug, where the main difficulty is to overcome the height of the climb. Here, the climber starts between the overhangs and climbs up the corner to the top.

Line length: 7m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1-2
Author: Libor Tvrdík, 2011

Graceful curves (3)

V4 (6b+)

The entrance is on the left under the overhang, from where the line leads upwards. After the overhang, it turns right and follows over the second (smaller) overhang to the top.

Line length: 8m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Kulajta, 2011

Stroh - project

— —

Unfortunately, as a VARP team, we don't know if the project is open or not. But within the framework of climbing ethics, we consider it closed. If you are the author of this line, write to the editorial office and we will add your information!

Line length: 6m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: —

Chicken Rib (5)

V3 (6a)

The path begins on the right side of the large overhang. The climber overcomes the overhang and tops, but this is all without any use of holds and steps on the rock to the right.

Line length: 7m
Recommended bouldering mats: 2
Author: Martin Kulajta, 2011

Thorny Claw (6)

V0 (4+)

The line runs from standing between the main overhang and the right rock wall. The climber walks along the edge to the top of the precipice. Boulder has a sitting variant, rated V3 (6A+). Here, the climber starts sitting on the rock with his feet together.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Kulajta, 2011

From the Cave (7)

V2 (5+)

This is the last line on the highball Jug. It leads along the right edge of the small cave on the right. The climber can get from the cave to the top in a direct and logical line. It is forbidden to use the wall on the right when climbing.

Line length: 4 m
Recommended bouldering mats: 1
Author: Martin Tučka, 2011

From where to	Distance
Arithm -> Nebu.	1.5 km
Damn -> BOOMerang	0.6 km
Parachute -> Arithm	1.6 km
BOOM. -> Highball	0.7 km
Highball -> Damn.	1.6 km
Lookout -> Sky.	0.85 km
Outlook -> Arithm	1.7 km
Pitcher -> Lookout	1.8 km

Distance between sectors

📚Soft binding

📑PDF

Oranžový okruh: Orientace

Oranžový okruh vede dokola Divoké Šárky. Sektory jsou od sebe relativně vzdálené, takže je nutné pamatovat při přechodech na čas. Trasa je zamýšlena pro lezce, kteří jsou již zkušenější venkovní lezci a lezou mezi obtížnostmi V3 – V4. Hlavní okruh má lehce přes 2 km. Celý okruh se pak pohybuje kolem 7 kilometrů. Hlavní sektory zde jsou Skalky za Aritmou a Skalky pod Nebušicemi.

Cesty mezi sektory jsou dobré. Jedná se dominantně o vychozené pěšiny zanesené do Mapy.cz. Nejlépe přístupná je Soutěska Džbán a nejhůře pak části Skalek pod Nebušicemi.

Risks

The main risk when climbing and moving between sectors is tripping on paths and stone fields (first aid kit).
On Aritma and Nebušická lookout, there is more climbing in the sun, in the warmer months, dehydration, heatstroke and sunburn are possible (sunscreen and hats).
The paths between sectors are natural, watch out for ticks.
A handful of routes here have high Tops or less than ideal landings. So be careful, Highball and Last Lookout.

Support points:

Wild Sárka: Girl's Leap Inn, U Veselík swimming pool
Nebušice: Albert, Café Nebu, Burger Bar

public transport:
Bus: Veleslavín Station, Nové Vokovice, Jenerálka, K Noskovně.
Tram: Veleslavín Station, Divoká Šárka (Suspended)

Parking:
Nebušice: Nad Želivkou, K Pachmanca
Jenerálka: Street in Skály, parking lot at Restaurant Jenerálka
Prague 6: Džbán water reservoir parking lot

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