Differences in climbing shoe soles

This article will help you clarify the main differences in climbing shoe soles. We will outline basic information about the history of climbing shoes, their most famous manufacturers, and at the same time we will present the characteristics and specifics of modern rubber soles on climbing shoes.  

Specifics of climbing shoes

Modern climbing shoes are made from a large number of materials from leather to synthetic fabrics to materials made from natural rubber. The soles themselves are made of a mixture of synthetic rubber containing various additives. Among the most frequently used additives are various varieties of clay or soot.

In the early days of climbing, traditional boots with leather soles were used for climbing. The use of the first rubber soles came only at the beginning of the 20th century, when with the rapidly increasing difficulty of ascents, climbers began to place higher demands on their climbing shoes. During the last century, climbing shoes were reborn from bulky boots reminiscent of mountain boots, into light and especially grippy climbing shoes as we know them today.

The first specifically climbing shoe using a compound created for the needs of rock climbing was Boreal Fire. In the 1970s, Boreal reshaped the entire climbing scene with its single decision. The use of this revolutionary mixture made it possible to accelerate the emergence of new legends of the climbing sport, who could thus push the limit of the impossible. The difficulty of sports routes and boulders has increased by one whole level with the advent of these shoes.

Softer or harder climbing

The differences in the compositions and construction of the shoes are significant. Most often, their differentiation occurs at the level of hardness, where each of these options carries its own specific advantages and disadvantages. Each shoe is therefore suitable for a different use. This phenomenon can be observed in some professional athletes who use different pairs of shoes on different rocks, and in some extreme cases they use two different climbing shoes at the same time.

Softer shoes excel in grip, they are directly created for rubbing and climbing on softer rocks (sandstone, limestone). Of course, to achieve high adhesion, they have to make compromises on other fronts. The soles using softer sole rubbers are not very thick, the compounds used are created with a lower content of additives, reducing the overall resistance. The surface of the soles wears more easily.  

Harder climbing shoes are suitable for use on those the most delicate holds. Their construction allows the use of thicker soles, which are additionally supported by additives that further harden the rubber. Harder shoes tend to last longer. However, their disadvantage is softer rocks, on which they are not able to achieve as high results as softer shoes do. 

Vibram

Vibram is an Italian company founded in 1937. Since its inception, it has focused on the production of equipment for the newly emerging sport of mountaineering. During its existence, Vibram has brought fundamental innovations among climbers, and today its sole rubbers are the most used on the market. Vibram XS Grip 2 is the sole you will see on the vast majority of competitive climbers' boots.

Vibram XS Edge

Suitable for use on the smallest steps on the rock. Boots using this rubber are mainly suitable for climbing slabs or multi-pitch climbing. Although it is a harder compound, it has also found its way into some of the most popular bouldering and all-round boots (Scarpa Instinct VS, Scarpa Vapor V or La Sportiva Miura).

Vibram XS Grip

A mixture created for perfect adhesion on any material. Universality was one of the requirements during the development of this material. XS Grip ranges between harder and softer and can be found on a wide range of shoes from manufacturers La Sportiva, Scarpa, Tenaya.

XS Grip has also found fans among the legends of climbing sports. The most famous names are, for example, Jimmy Webb, Chris Sharma or Alex Megos.

Vibram XS Grip 2

Compared to its predecessor, the Vibram XS Grip 2 offers a softer, more durable but also a higher grip. This sole has been specifically developed for aggressive climbing, overhangs and bouldering. XS Grip 2 can be found on the most powerful climbing shoes from manufacturers such as La Sportiva or Scarpa.

Vibram XS Flash

The newest rubber compound that Vibram offers in its catalog. The development of the sole was aimed specifically at the needs of climbing in indoor gyms. The mixture does not leave any black marks on the surface of the artificial walls and at the same time it is one of the softest mixtures on the market.   

Five Ten

The soles used on the shoes of the manufacturer Five Ten have been loved by many during their existence. Company founder Charles Cole is behind their secret manufacturing procedure. Stealth soles are considered some of the most grippy on the market.

Five Ten Stealth Mi6

It is the perfect sole for climbing overhangs and getting enough friction on the smoothest of holds. The Mi6 compound is one of the most grippy on the market, but the downside is its durability. Shoes fitted with Mi6 soles are known for their low durability.

Five Ten Stealth C4

The original rubber sole compound that helped Five Ten make a name for itself in climbing circles. This is a softer mixture, suitable for overcoming demanding sports routes and more lengths. At the same time, it is one of the more durable rubbers in the Five Ten offer. Its characteristics could be compared to the Vibram XS Grip 2 mixture, but it loses a few points in terms of durability. Among the most popular shoes using the Stealth C4 are the 5.10 Anasazi or Moccasym.

Five Ten Stealth Hf

Boots equipped with Stealth Hf soles sit at the absolute pinnacle of aggressive boots in the Five Ten range (5.10 Team, 5.10 Dragon). This soft compound excels on overhanging sports routes and on boulder. Again, as with the Stealth Mi6, the durability of the soles is very low.

Uncle

The Czech company Ocun entered the sole rubber market in 2017. CAT, Climbing Adhesion Technology, is today installed on most boots from this manufacturer, where it helps climbers achieve great results.

Ocun Cat 1.1

The Cat 1.1 rubber compound is shaped to give climbers the highest possible grip in a slightly harder performance. These soles are suitable for edging and standing on the smallest holds. Since its introduction, this rubber has, in a very short time, replaced most of the original offer in the catalog of this manufacturer. This is an excellent alternative to the Vibram XS Edge.

Ocun Cat 1.5

The sole Cat 1.5 is softer compared to its predecessor Cat 1.1, more suitable for climbing in overhangs, bouldering and climbing in indoor halls. Ocun equips the more aggressive shoes in its offer with this sole. With its performance parameters, it could be an alternative to Vibram XS Grip or Grip 2.

Evolve

Although the soles from this American manufacturer are not the most used on the market, their rubber compound is still uncompromising. The management of the company entrusted the development of sole rubber to a team of proven scientists who brought three great products to their offer.

Trax-SAS

Trax-SAS is a sole rubber operating on the range between soft and harder compounds. Its unique composition is suitable for most climbing activities, from playing sports on internal plastic holds to tackling routes in inclined overhangs. Its only disadvantage is plate climbing, where it lags behind the offer of the competition. The most frequently used rubber from the Evolv manufacturer is Mrprecisely this sole compound.

Trax-XE

It is the newest blend in the Evolv range. At the time of writing, only the newest climbing shoes in the Evolv range (Evolv General) were equipped with this rubber. Its modification is aimed as a plate alternative to Trax-SAS. Its composition allows the soles to withstand even the worst conditions of multi-length climbing, where it absolutely dominates on slabs and small holds.  

Trax-GT

Trax-GT is an alternative to Vibram XS Flash, created purely for indoor climbing so that it does not leave smears on the walls.