Climbing ethics

Climbing, especially outdoor climbing, has its own rules of good behavior. This climbing ethics is a certain code of rules, written and unwritten, about how one should behave on the climbing wall, outside on the rock, in nature and with other climbers. In this article, we'll give you an introduction to what rules to follow and what to avoid, and outline some of the main approaches to climbing that exist (such as "leave no trace" or the route bolting controversy). 

Outdoor ethics

Climbing ethics, or decent behavior, is important when climbing outdoors. At the moment when we are climbing on the rocks, we need to follow certain rules and not be such a bully.

Leave No Trace

Metoda „Leave No Trace“ je velice přímočará. Platí pro lezce, turisty, běžce atd. Je to velice jednoduché. Klíč k tomuto přístupu je nenechat po sobě žádné stopy. Tedy žádné odpadky, zničenou přírodu, nové ohniště a tak dále. Jde o etiku rozumu. Zkrátka zanechte věci v takovém stavu, v jakém jste je našli.

In climbing, this ethic is a bit more detailed. This is because it does not only concern the stand and the surroundings of the rock, but also the rock and fixed belaying on the roads. Therefore, if you are not the administrator of the given climbing sector or area, you do not have the right to change belaying and abseils or modify the surroundings of the rock (such as on Pine rocks). During climbing, this approach has two main branches - climbing and abseiling.

The climbing part refers primarily to rope and rock operations. The rope should not rub too much against the rock. We know that some routes directly lead to this (especially those that are well secured on toprope). Ropes on routes, which are often belayed with this technique, plan grooves into the rock, destroying it permanently. At the same time, climbers should be careful not to accidentally destroy the rock while climbing. If the trail label indicates that the rock crumbles or breaks (eg the ways of the Guillotine on Hlubočepské plotny) it is good to remember this when climbing and to check the rock while climbing.

The abseiling part is dominantly concentrated around fixed abseiling points. These are usually maintained by sector administrators (sometimes in combination with the Czech Republic). Sled shoes are the main fixed point of the whole trip and often suffer from wear and tear. Every climber should therefore try to take care of them. If you pull on the first one, it's relatively simple. To abseil, you reach, abseil and pull the rope. But when you climb on toprope, or you are projecting the length of the journey, it is a good idea to use your own steel or two expressways turned against each other. This will prevent the fuse from wearing out and make someone else's job easier.

Equipment

Vybavení je něco, čeho máme každý hodně a máme tendenci si zakládat „base camp“ u skály. Pravda, je to jednoduché a celkem praktické, jelikož máme všechny věci na jednom místě. Rozhodně to ale není adekvátní. Znečišťujeme tím ostatním lezcům prostor a dělá to z nás otravné hulváty. Proto mějte své věci kolem cesty, na které lezete. Samozřejmě pokud jste na sektoru sami, je to věc jiná.

This also applies to littering and setting up campsites. The general rule is - don't do it. If you have to think about whether it's a good idea, it's a good idea to tell yourself it's not. Leaving trash behind is a mortal sin that we don't need to comment on here. But fireplaces are a different matter and it depends on the area. If you are in a protected area, national park, etc. don't start anything. There is a good chance that the campfire site will be pre-prepared (just like camping sites). If this is not the case, don't forget to clean up the fireplace and put it out properly. Ideally, so that it is impossible to know that you have ever been here.

Noise and music

Sound falls into the "don't be stupid" category. Just be considerate. Climbing is an activity in nature and the same rules apply here as for hiking. So no winning music, hollering, etc. The only exception is for screams of effort v crux path, and only if it is a path rated at least 6c+ (VIII-).

Road bolting

 As far as bolting and introducing new routes are concerned, climbing ethics are quite clear. No modification of the rock, chopping, gluing and modeling of holds is allowed. The fixed belay is not installed directly in the seam and is not installed in such a way as to disturb any monument that is on the rock. Along with this, every potential new setter should get into dialogue with the sector administrator.

Internal ethics

Indoor climbing ethics is more a matter of good behavior than an outdoor climbing code. For simplicity, we will divide it into bouldering and rope climbing.

Bouldering

The same rule about music applies when bouldering indoors as it does outdoors. Don't let your own voice be heard among others (yes, it seems obvious, but we know why we say that). But now the main thing. Climbers take turns on boulder problems. It happens that there are queues for some boulders. In this case, every climber must remember that the queue is here. Usually in such cases each climber has one attempt. Then the next one starts (unless you agree otherwise, of course). The only exception is if you accidentally slip off the starting holds. Then yes, you can immediately try again, but only once.

Boulder holds are often cleaned with brushes (by climbers, not operators). If a climber brushes his way, don't climb it. Let him try it on after his hard work with the brush. The same is true in reverse. If someone tries to get in your way right after you clean it, don't be afraid to yell at them. In addition, the brushes are the property of the gym. So be considerate when using them. It is not proper for someone to treat them like Gandalf does his staff and refuse to give it up.

Rope climbing

Difficulty climbing (aka rope) has similar rules to bouldering. As a rule, the number of climbing lines is greater than the number of ropes. Therefore, pay attention to crossing roads. When you see that you will cross other climbers, simply wait or ask their belayer if the potential crossing is okay.

Some climbing halls are not as big as others. Therefore, try not to prolong the journey unnecessarily. It is usually a rule that you give someone else the opportunity to fasten after each trip on a self-winder (at least you rest). For toprope ropes or trips to the first one, remember that you are not alone. Try a few attempts (ideally how many you can count on the fingers of one hand) and then pass the line to someone else. Of course, if the hall is empty, it doesn't matter how much time you will be on the road. The same if you are climbing the only "8c" route available and you already know in advance that you have it to yourself.

Beta Spraying

The most important thing at the end. "Betaspraying” is one of the most annoying bad habits a climber can have. A bad habit that is not recommended even by climbing ethics. We all know the situation. You're working on your project and a random passer-by starts giving you advice on how to do it. This applies to both bouldering and difficulty climbing, and we can say from experience that it's really annoying. Therefore, although you may mean it well, you better keep your advice to yourself. If you really want to give advice, ask first if the person in question is interested in your advice. This also applies to the cleaning of grips from magnesium to the finish of the outdoor track. Part of climbing is fighting the rock and figuring out the route. We know that you can never clean everything perfectly. But even a cursory cleaning is better than nothing!