Climbing area: Prokop valley

Inspiration, Lezecké oblasti

Prokopské údolí is a climbing and tourist area in Prague, conveniently located in the valley between Butovice and Barrandov. It is a place full of rocks and with its own climbing history. The valley is home to three main climbing sectors on opposite sides of the valley. Both beginners who are just getting started with outdoor climbing and seasoned veterans will come to their own devices.

Historie lezení

Nad Borovou skálou a Prokopským údolím se v minulosti tyčilo Butovické hradiště. Od pozdní doby kamenné (3000 let př.n.l.) tu žili lidé až do 10. století n.l., kdy hradiště zaniklo. Říct tedy, kdy tu lezení začalo, je prakticky nemožné. Víme ale, kdy tu začali lézt první organizovaní lezci a začali zapisovat cesty do České horolezecké databáze.

V Prokopském údolí se dlouho lezlo tradičně a trénovalo se tu na Alpské a Himalájské výstupy. Velké množství prvovýstupů zde drží Pavel Schwarz, který zde v roce 1979 cvičil na expedici v Himalájích, která se mu bohužel stala osudná. Pavel nasadil v Prokopském údolí přes dvacet cest, než zemřel ve svých 22 letech u pramene Gangy.

Dnes je Prokopské údolí a Borová skála velice oblíbené místo pražských lezců. Povolení lezení zde dělá Magistrátu, ČHS a lezcům často těžkou hlavu, přesto se tu ale momentálně dá lézt (povolení je platné do roku 2032). Již řadu let se o Borovku stará Reinhard Streif. Excentrický stařík, který skálu udržuje, tvoří nové cesty a pěšinky okolo.

Pravidla lezení

Pravidla lezení jsou na skalách jasně daná. V Prokopáku platí jasná pravidla. Zákaz měnit podobu skály a přilehlého okolí, zákaz tvorby nových cest a zákaz používání zimní lezecké výzbroje.
Zároveň s tím se pojí pravidla platná pro Přírodní rezervace.

Prokop Valley: Climbing sectors

There are three main sectors in the Prokop valley, conveniently designed for climbers of different skills. At the western end of the valley, closer to the Nové Butovice metro station, we find the sectors Borová skála and Borová skála - the right amphitheater. At the eastern, Hlubočep end, there is a sector Žvahov.

Průvodce Borová skála, VARP

Pine rock

Borová skála is the most famous and largest sector of the Prokop valley. There are almost 30 routes, from the easiest 2+ (III) routes such as Vavřinecká and Mls, to more challenging sixes such as Trhlina 6b+ (VII) and Posledni šiška 6c (VII+). The roads are unlocked bolts and rivets, which are regularly exchanged for new ones by local administrators. Along with that, there are also a handful of lighter routes that are unlocked traditionally, or in a combination of sport and traditional climbing.

What must be emphasized is that the paths are not marked (with the exception of those around the overhang and the gap in the left part of the rock). So if you are going to the pine rock for the first time, we recommend going with someone who knows the sector, or consult some of the existing guides of the area (e.g. .latest here: Pine Rock).

Among the equipment, it is necessary to have available 1. A rope AT LEAST 40 meters long 2. Belay 3. Seat 4. Climbing shoes (ideally with harder rubber) 5. Set of 6 express cars 6. Two carabiners 7. Seatpost (necessary for tying the belay at the end of the journey).

For a more detailed description of routes and transport, continue here: Borová skála, where we have prepared the latest guide for you.

The right part of Borová skály, the way to the top. Photo: Patrik "Baklažán" Smet
Lezecký průvodce je takédostupný v pdf formatu na portálu Patreon.com. TOPO průvodce pražskými lezeckými oblastmi

Borová skála – the true amphitheater

The true amphitheater of pine rock is, as the name suggests, to the right of the main massif. The paths are longer (max. 25m), but still on the same rock with the same top, access, background and protection. In this sector of the Prokop valley, we find a total of 19 routes, which are rather made for beginner climbers who want to try longer outdoor climbing. The easiest route of the sector is the aptly named Easy 2+ (III) route. However, the vast majority of possible routes here are rated between 4b – 5a (V- to V+). The most difficult path of the sector is the Law of Large Numbers 6c+ (VIII-).

It is an excellently secured sector with roads bordering its circular shape (the most difficult roads are on the right). All routes are accessible via a well-maintained circular footpath around a small meadow with trees, where you can spend time for those who are not climbing and are unsure. Unlike the main Borová skála massif, the paths are very well-marked, although not physically marked.

The equipment here is almost the same as on the left massif. The exception is: 1. Rope AT LEAST 50 meters long 2. Belay 3. Seat 4. Climbing shoes (ideally with harder rubber) 5. Set of 6 express cars 6. Two carabiners 7. Seatpost (necessary for tying the belay at the end of the journey).

Luck favors those who are prepared, so before you leave, better consult the guide here: Borová skála - true amphitheater.

Borová skála pravý amfiteátr

Žvahov

The last sector, at the opposite end of the valley, is Žvahov. It's a small, five-route climb with significantly harder climbing than the pine rock. Žvahov is the practical opposite of the sleek and tidy "Borovka". Access from the road leads through a small patch of wood and then down a short slope to the plate itself.

Climbing is a different matter. The five Žvahov routes, from 6a (VI+) to 6c+ (VIII-), are well secured and very clear. The paths are not marked on the rock, but it is not necessary. Each has its own distinctive line of borkhas leading to its own abseil at the top of the plate. But the routes are definitely not for new climbers. Everything is climbed using the first and more advanced climbing technique.

The equipment in this sector is the same as in the Borová skála sector. Thus: 1. Rope AT LEAST 40 meters long 2. Belay 3. Seat 4. Climbing shoes (ideally with hard rubber for edging, like Vibram XS Edge) 5. Set of 6 express cars 6. Two carabiners 7. Seatpost (necessary for tying the belay at the end of the journey).

As with the previous sectors, you can find a detailed approach and a description of the routes in the new guide here: Žvahov.

Žvahov
Lezecký průvodce je takédostupný v pdf formatu na portálu Patreon.com. TOPO průvodce pražskými lezeckými oblastmi
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